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Nightmare midarm 3 link rehabilitation

Not sure where the confusion lies...

I have "manned up" and have rebuilt completely new lowers and am rebuilding the upper. Im stuck at the mounting section for the upper control arm body side. All other joints and arms are brand new.

I dont want to build a cross member at this time, as I dig the mid arms. Once this last heim is deleted it will be a very capable rig for my uses, and I can get to building fun stuff.

I can weld

LOL
 
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Yeppers pretty similar to what i linked from Barnes.. I also preffered the adjustable one


I guess the only hang up is the fuel and brake lines that are in the way. Maybe if I weld it to the unibody plate with the bottom open and notched i can slide it over the lines.. Then burn it to the unibody.. To prevent it from bending and closing the notch and crushing the lines something like a piece of angle iron or 2.

Works in my head
 
I was thinking the same thing. Could make a removable cross member to support it

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I'm mostly hobby welder scabbing dirt equipment together. Just realized I've made it completely around my jeep
84da8362bdd4312d94120694d8a38b25.jpg


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I feel like this didn’t go well.. got my man hood questioned lmmfao and possibly sanity for even purchasing my rig loool

And now? Idk wtf is a even being said!!

All jokes aside, can anyone with real life experience running a mid arm/ or has seen or built one, help with the drivers side, upper, unibody, mount location? and how they overcame the perilous lines in the way with out blowing up either during install or later down the line on the trail?!
Welding anywhere near those definitely has me a little shook
 
I thnk I'd build box over the area more like 5" channel with a 3"ish leg on the inside that clears the lines looks like the unibody frame is about 3/4" wider on the top so you could stay off the lines by that much.

Burn the upper then plug welds every where you can.

Bottom of channel would be 5 3/4"

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Making the mount is the easy part, your biggest issue is to get the proper separation. Two things come to mind, you could use one of the "calculators" or by chance talk to Richard(he's been running mid-arms for years).
 
Bottom leg of channel could run wild 10" then link mount fabbed on top of it this creating the center of link separation this also would allo degree adjustments to meet link. A simple bracket like the lower link then tie bracket back to plate that's clearing lined

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Ideal would be parrel separation matching separation at axle end. Due clearance issues I doubt that can be achieved.
Pretty much just gotta make it fit

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Evan03 said:
Ideal would be parrel separation matching separation at axle end. Due clearance issues I doubt that can be achieved.
Pretty much just gotta make it fit

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Click to expand...

It's not that simple! Separation effects your caster change/anti-dive/anti-squat and not dealing with that does not make for a good set-up.
 
Yes ofcourse calculators are good for guide lines but for the most part are useless when fitting mid arms.
Link separation will be closer on frame end.
Building a tube chassis with no limitations chassis fabbed to suit the calculations.
Here we have an upper link that clears almost nothing unless the lower is 6" lower than the frame rails 3" probably were the lower link is below frame.
A tall lift would make packing links in easier. But then links get further from horizontal nd ride suffers.

Its all give and take

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Linkithe rear with double triangulated links with separation 7-8 and parrel tunable would play a role in stabilizing and planting the front end that is softer feeling. That was built to tighter restrictions.
Weight transfer could also be tuned to some degree by playing with separation in the rear.

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It was my understanding (scouring the forums) that ideal would be 6"s above the lower ca mount and the arm 2"s longer then the lowers? With the longer arms keeping the same angles as stock would be impossible, as the upper arm (if extended on same path as stock) would land IN the unibody... so mounting it just inboard of the unibody and getting the depth and height as close to perfect should net the best results, right?
 
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10/4 its pretty much going to where it fits.

Link separation is called fro a percentage of tire diameter I forget the percentage 15-20%

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Even if links end up out of parrel they're still far better than a radius arm.

Youl see some kits have frame links nearly mounted at the same height. This gives the axle more leverage over the frame end. Making a softer flexor less stable feel

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All this is good info, but the bottom line is it's easier to achieve on a "mid-arm" than a "long arm" giving the OP no excuse to do it right.
 
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