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splatvonzipper

NAXJA Forum User
Location
San Jacinto, CA
Hey there. I just took the plunge and picked up my first (wheeling) XJ. It came with RE longarms and a decent set of 33's. Im scouring the forums to get a good direction on steering upgrades so I can actually drive it to local trails. As far as I can see, the steering is stock so i'm not sure if I need a pitman drop arm or if I can build off of the stocker. Any input would be appreciated. :cheers:
 
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HARDCORE!
 
Thanks guys. From what I'm gathering, it looks like the "over-under" knuckle seems to net the best results in minimizing bump-steer and DW. I have some 5/8" x 3/4" heims (FK# HRSMX10T) left over from another project that I think I'll use. Will I just have to drill out my stock steering arms and pitman to accept the new bolt?
 
Thanks guys. From what I'm gathering, it looks like the "over-under" knuckle seems to net the best results in minimizing bump-steer and DW. I have some 5/8" x 3/4" heims (FK# HRSMX10T) left over from another project that I think I'll use. Will I just have to drill out my stock steering arms and pitman to accept the new bolt?


Yep. Drill the knuckles (steering arms) and pitman.



If you build a heim set-up with stock XJ-steering knuckles, to go over the knuckle (with the tie-rod) you need to stack the tie-rod and drag link in single sheer on the passenger side knuckle. I've heard some say this is unsafe. It also creates more clearance issues from what I understand. (vs going under the knuckle)

If you go under the knuckle (with the tie-rod), you put drag link on top and tie rod under the passenger steering knuckle. I ran this way for a couple years.

In either case, there will be other considerations.

You will have to most likely raise the axle side track bar mount to make sure the track bar is parallel to the drag link.

You may have clearance issues with the diff cover. I did not. My tie rod JUST touches the cover on full lock.

You will also most likely either need to remove or re-locate your sway bar links.

I think that's it....

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The Currie set up is bolt in if you don't want to deal with all that.
 
Yep. Drill the knuckles (steering arms) and pitman.



If you build a heim set-up with stock XJ-steering knuckles, to go over the knuckle (with the tie-rod) you need to stack the tie-rod and drag link in single sheer on the passenger side knuckle. I've heard some say this is unsafe. It also creates more clearance issues from what I understand. (vs going under the knuckle)

If you go under the knuckle (with the tie-rod), you put drag link on top and tie rod under the passenger steering knuckle. I ran this way for a couple years.

In either case, there will be other considerations.

You will have to most likely raise the axle side track bar mount to make sure the track bar is parallel to the drag link.

You may have clearance issues with the diff cover. I did not. My tie rod JUST touches the cover on full lock.

You will also most likely either need to remove or re-locate your sway bar links.

I think that's it....

--------

The Currie set up is bolt in if you don't want to deal with all that.

Thanks for the info. I like the Currie goods but :scared: $$$.
 
you have to pay to play...or go hang out at the mall
 
you have to pay to play...or go hang out at the mall

or scour through 10 or 12 old posts and pics until you understand how this crap works then buy a crappy flux core welder and open a fab shop cause youre a pro at that point.
 
Thanks for the info. I like the Currie goods but :scared: $$$.

Sure.

I really like the heim set up I had/have. I eventually went with WJ brakes and knuckles... and pretty much re-used the hiem steering with some modifications.

If you are considering a WJ front brake upgrade, I would advise to do it all at once and only once. But that of course adds more cost...

Either way... you can get one of these to raise the track-bar mount:
http://jksmfg.com/i-17397012-fab-trackbar-relocation-bracket.html

(and yes, it works on vacuum actuated disconnect axles with a little modification.... despite what the website says)

For the sway bar mounts you can get these:
http://www.jcroffroad.com/product/DPL/SBRM.html

Some people just remove the sway bar altogether. I prefer keeping it. I just extended my sway-bar mounts with some scrap metal I had around.


Good luck!
 
The front is sitting on a D30 :( so i'm not looking to get too involved in axle mods until I get more beef under there. What are your thoughts on the RE Extreme duty adjustable trackbar (RE1660) and their drop bracket (RE1665)?
 
I have the Currie set up and went with an OTT flip kit and had the tapered spacer welded into the knuckle. I ended up with an extra 2" of clearance for the tie rod which is nice consideting i bent my tietod the first time out before the flip.

Upgrade to a ZJ steering kit if funds are an issue.

I am also running the RE trackbar and drop bracket and think it works well. I use an RE trackbar brace and separate steering box brace for support. Strengthening your steering box mount should be a priority.
 
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I have the Currie set up and went with an OTT flip kit and had the tapered spacer welded into the knuckle. I ended up with an extra 2" of clearance for the tie rod which is nice consideting i bent my tietod the first time out before the flip.

Upgrade to a ZJ steering kit if funds are an issue.

I am also running the RE trackbar and drop bracket and think it works well. I use an RE trackbar brace and separate steering box brace for support. Strengthening your steering box mount should be a priority.

Thanks for the input. RE Trackbar, drop bracket, and brace on order. I'll find some ZJ tie rods for now as well. :cheers:
 
I always recommend people go to a strait trac bar and crossover steering if possible. It gives much more reliability and no bumpsteer.

Bawahaha. ...such :bs:
 
I always recommend people go to a strait trac bar and crossover steering if possible. It gives much more reliability and no bumpsteer.

Bawahaha. ...such :bs:
 
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