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New SYE early 242 idea

Wayne Sihler said:
Just a thought-- would it be possible to use the housing from a 96+ 231,the out put shaft is sealed in the housing.Just like a H&T on the later case only with a bolted on yoke instead of a flange.
Just a thought,
Wayne
Cant use the housing from a 242 as it wont bolt up and even has a different number of bolts. But the 96+ 242 housing have the same seal setup as them anyway and what John and I were talking about as was my idea to try and use but there are differences in the 4wd switch that cant be used and the output shaft spline I think will still be where the seal needs to run.
 
bobb said:
I'm curious why you need a new yoke? Can't you just cut down the stock slip yoke, and use that, or is it incompatible with a CV? N/M, I just figured out it's incompatible with a CV.
Cant use the old yoke as it either needs the four bolt holes so you can screw into the centering yoke part of the double cardon joint or have the centring yoke part built in.
 
I have been looking for the inexpensive way to deal with the rear SYE CV DS BS :) I was thinking to use the GM slip yoke, shortened and capped w/ bolt hole. And just machining my own seal housing out on a lathe. Does any one have the CR or National # off the RE housing ? TIA :)
 
Gojeep said:
Dont take that out as have the same one in right now too. I had forgot about sending that to you. :)

Just found this 27 spline yoke.

76_1_b.JPG

11_1_b.JPG

2e_1_b.JPG


This new G.M .Slip Yoke has 1.172 x 27-spline 1.50 seal diameter. The “C” length is 5.531”. It uses 1310 series U-Joint for late aluminum Power Glides, Muncies, Saginaw (3 & 4-speeds), M-20, M-21, 65-70 M-22, Muncie 4-speed, Borg-Warner T4, T5, T10, T16, T56, GM T200, T350, some T375, 4L60, 4L60E, 200R4, 700R4, ZF 6-speed, BOP, Tremec, HD3-speeds. It is Part #SY1310-3500.

Looks like plenty of choice of picking up a yoke from any of these transmissions. The fact it shows the bolt through U bolts mean you can use the same setup as John has with a front shaft which in my case will have to be lengthened. Not all of those run the U bolt style like the Corvette pictured.
from here on eBay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Corv...33733QQitemZ7949637532QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V

Any ideas on what vehicles would have these transmissions and/or slip yokes that I could hunt for at the junk yard?
 
Word is mid 80's Fords like the Lincoln Mark whatever, Mercury and Crown Vic.
 
Corvette's are your best bet as most others mentioned dont run the U bolts but the straps. You need the former so you can bolt into the double cardon joint. So look to see there is no thread in the 4 holes and you have the small landing on the back of the yoke where normally the U bolt nuts go but where you will put the bolts.
 
Gojeep said:
Corvette's are your best bet as most others mentioned dont run the U bolts but the straps. You need the former so you can bolt into the double cardon joint. So look to see there is no thread in the 4 holes and you have the small landing on the back of the yoke where normally the U bolt nuts go but where you will put the bolts.

If I found a yoke with straps instead of Ubolts, couldn't I just drill out the threaded holes and get some Ubolts to screw into the double cardan?
 
PAPXJ said:
If I found a yoke with straps instead of Ubolts, couldn't I just drill out the threaded holes and get some Ubolts to screw into the double cardan?

Not u-bolts, regular bolts. Your threads are on the CV end of the driveshaft. The two will mate up and bolt together.
 
Here is what I have been working on...

wisgsg.jpg


It is a Hybrid 231 front output yoke and 242 rear output slip yoke. And a shortened tail cone.

wish7k.jpg
 
I cant believe no one has posted this yet.

http://www.arizonadrivelines.com/drive_shaft_SYE.htm

Call these guys, I did the other day and I fully plan on buying the Wrangler CV SYE from them. You need to tell them which style 231 you have (they understand YJ and TJ style, I tole them '96 and he was a little confused, not a problem if you know what you have) They say to cut off 2" of your output shaft, but that is for the 231. Wait, you have the 242 dont you. I think it will still work, depends on if you have the internal or external seal. My96 231 case seals itself (I can remove the driveshaft and not lose all of my fluid) I dont know how yours works, but if you seal it, this will work fine for you. Just use that and a front DS out of a cherokee. Hope that offers a little help.
 
MIXJ said:
I cant believe no one has posted this yet.

http://www.arizonadrivelines.com/drive_shaft_SYE.htm

Call these guys, I did the other day and I fully plan on buying the Wrangler CV SYE from them. You need to tell them which style 231 you have (they understand YJ and TJ style, I tole them '96 and he was a little confused, not a problem if you know what you have) They say to cut off 2" of your output shaft, but that is for the 231. Wait, you have the 242 dont you. I think it will still work, depends on if you have the internal or external seal. My96 231 case seals itself (I can remove the driveshaft and not lose all of my fluid) I dont know how yours works, but if you seal it, this will work fine for you. Just use that and a front DS out of a cherokee. Hope that offers a little help.

It's been posted but likely not highly searchable. ;)

I did the exact same thing and it works great. Do some checking around on XJ front shafts, many were made and you can find some larger diameter tube models that would theoretically allow higher shaft speeds and less vibration issues. I've been very happy with mine.
 
I linked to this thread on your other thread PAPXJ as didn't relized yet you had already posted here. Sorry but it might help others.
 
Gojeep said:
I linked to this thread on your other thread PAPXJ as didn't relized yet you had already posted here. Sorry but it might help others.

I am all about helping others. It is because of this thread that I was inspired to make my own SYE. Thank you for your help Gojeep and John90XJ!
 
Gojeep said:
Dont take that out as have the same one in right now too. I had forgot about sending that to you. :)

Just found this 27 spline yoke.

76_1_b.JPG

11_1_b.JPG

2e_1_b.JPG


This new G.M .Slip Yoke has 1.172 x 27-spline 1.50 seal diameter. The “C” length is 5.531”. It uses 1310 series U-Joint for late aluminum Power Glides, Muncies, Saginaw (3 & 4-speeds), M-20, M-21, 65-70 M-22, Muncie 4-speed, Borg-Warner T4, T5, T10, T16, T56, GM T200, T350, some T375, 4L60, 4L60E, 200R4, 700R4, ZF 6-speed, BOP, Tremec, HD3-speeds. It is Part #SY1310-3500.

Looks like plenty of choice of picking up a yoke from any of these transmissions. The fact it shows the bolt through U bolts mean you can use the same setup as John has with a front shaft which in my case will have to be lengthened. Not all of those run the U bolt style like the Corvette pictured.
from here on eBay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Corv...33733QQitemZ7949637532QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V
Tthe only thing to watch out for is that the yoke is for a CV.
The correct yoke is from "Powertrain Industries" P/N 3103-27CV and can be purchased at your local driveshaft shop. Some transmission shops may carry them.
 
That is the whole idea the find a slip yoke that will except a CV or double cardon joint. You dont want a standard uni at the transfercase end. I have been running mine for over a year and not a drop of oil lost either. I will do a write up soon on it but want to make sure no long term trouble. ;) Even Tom Woods asked me to wait first.
 
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