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New rig.

NorCalChris

NAXJA Forum User
Picked up a new rig yesterday. Finally made it back to my shop around 9:15pm tonight. Unloaded it off the trailer quick and fired it up. Did some quick performance tests and visual inspections.

Here is the pre-story:

Jeep was posted for sale here a few days ago. I picked it up Sat. Previous owner stated that it could have a blown engine, without diagnosing it, he couldnt be sure. He did say that it definetly had a drivability issue and lack of power. It is an 89 4dr XJ. 3 inch or so lift, rolling on 31 inch Falkens. Has a 29 spline 8.25, Logans winch bumper, all stock skids, and a handful of newer replaced components. Also, before he purchased the Jeep, it was in an accident of some kind, it is not a salvage title, but there is some minor damage where the bumper mounts too as well as some visible repairs.

Here is what I've done so far.

Checked all the fluids. No signs of anything except it needs an oil change.
Fired it up, it runs OK, not good, but ok. There is deffinetly an audible intake leak as well as a exhaust leak. Once it ran for a few mins I drove it around the shop a few times. Never once heard a mechanical problem with the motor. Once it was warm I did what I like to call a durability test. (Also works well on freeing up stuck lifters and/or exhaust valves in the 4.0) Reved it up in stages til I got to 4k rpm and held it there for five minutes. If it is going to grenade it will do it during that test hopefully. Ran fine without a hicup. Brought it down in steps back down to idle. It has a very low idle( under 500rpm).
After that I noticed that the temp was slightly above 210, not near the red, but still above 210. The cooling system is showing signs that we either have: an airflow issue, coolant level issue, or both. Could be other items as well obviously, but those are where I believe it is. All my Xjs have had idle temps right at or below 210, even trail temps around 210, so this system is deffinetly showing its efficincy level. I let it sit for a few minutes idling, the temps did not drop (with the fran clutch engaged). I then turned the heater on to realize that warm air was not wanting to come out, verified that the blend door was indeed moving.(I should note that there is no heater control valve installed on this vehicle at the moment). After letting it run for a few more mins slightly warm air had begun to show. Signs that there is either an air pocket in the heating system, or a plugged up heater core.​

After all that I noticed that the charging volts (on the gauge)was just over 12volts. All accesories off it should be reading closer to 14. Something else that must be addresed. I shut the Jeep off and visually inspected the engine compartment. Valve cover leak, zj fan clutch, newer looking water pump as well as clean rtv around the tstat housing, upgraded headlight wiring harness as well as a working and cold blowing A/C system =}​

So here is what is next. I'm going to compression test the engine and go from there. If a leakdown test is needed that will be next. A full tuneup is needed, replace the TPS, clean TB and IAC... If the head has to come off then this is the perfect opportunity to throw on one of my 7120 heads port matched to Renix manifolds, I have to replace the intake/exhaust manifold gasket, so I might as well swap the head. Also, the injectors are going to be replaced with Ford 19lb injectors. Gen III's FTW!​

That is all for tonight, hopefully sometime this week I will have more time to look at it. Here is some pics for your entertainment.​

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nice rig for a killer price !
 
So at lunch today I performed a compression test on the engine and listened to the injectors with a stethoscope. It goes a something kinda like this.......

Cyl# PSI SPlug Injector
-------------------------------
1. 95 Good Normal
2. 130 Good Normal
3. 120 Rich Weak
4. 125 Good Normal
5. 125 Good Normal
6. 125 Good Normal

So found some of the reasoning for the misfires. With cylinder 1 so low I am going to replace the head gasket. I've always been told that bolt #11 is torqued less so when it does get too hot the bolt will strech and gasket will start to leak before head warps.
 
Looks good Chris.

What are the optimal compression test results? When I tested mine they ranged from 155-160 PSI.
 
I believe these are Rough Country? I don't remember, I think I paid $100 or $150 for the whole set.

Those look more like teraflex arms, do not know what the the older RC arms look like tho.


Looks good Chris.

What are the optimal compression test results? When I tested mine they ranged from 155-160 PSI.
Typically within 5%, maybe 10% at most of each other. I would gather that the newer HO's typically have higher than renix.
 
Don't quote me on this, but I remember seeing somewhere that said on a 4.0 over 100#s is good as long as there is no more than 25% difference from highest to lowest. I personally I look for under 10% difference. I'm ok with 125#, especially for an engine with 250k.
 
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for a little backround:
last oil change was around 147k with some 15/40

And I should have the compression numbers from when i got the thing 2 years ago hanging around the apartment somewhere.

I'm excited to see what you're going to do with the rig.


I'm VERY interested to see what the inside of that motor looks like btw.
You should take pictures when you tear it down!
 
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Nice looking rig. I'm interested to see how everything will perform if/when it's port matched.
It should perform well, I've done it before to my Jeeps and others, just never done a 7120 to Renix. Results should be better.
for a little backround:
last oil change was around 147k with some 15/40

And I should have the compression numbers from when i got the thing 2 years ago hanging around the apartment somewhere.

I'm excited to see what you're going to do with the rig.


I'm VERY interested to see what the inside of that motor looks like btw.
You should take pictures when you tear it down!
I have the valve cover off right now, everything is normal, started and watched the drivetrain operate, nothing out of the ordinary.
 
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