new rig (Black Betty)

[Rob D]

I narrowed my hp44 to use TJ Rubi d44 inners and used the TNT hp44 truss. I just cut the ends off 2 inches on each side which matched the new width perfectly and kept the center in the same spot.

 

[XJensen]

I narrowed my hp44 to use TJ Rubi d44 inners and used the TNT hp44 truss. I just cut the ends off 2 inches on each side which matched the new width perfectly and kept the center in the same spot.

What brackets did you get with it? Raised lower control arm mounts? sway bar? Do you run chevy high steer?

Thanks

I am worried about track bar angles mostly

 

[Rob D]

I used the mounts for the cross over high steering. I use the chevy outers with a high steer on the passenger side only. My tie rod is mounted on top of the stock steering arms. I also have a Full Traction track bar mount on the frame side that's drops that side of the track bar lower than stock. So, while my track bar/drag link angles are parallel, the track bar is shorter than the drag link, so not ideal (if you happen to have a copy of Eric's second book, "Jeep Cherokee XJ Performance Modifications 1984-2001" there is a picture of it on pg 69 lower left or I can email you a pic if you want to see what it looks like). It's my daily driver/trail rig and does pretty good overall. It's just not quite as good as it was with the stock setup.

 

[#S194]

Josh, here's pics of my truss and brackets:







My track bar and drag link angles aren't perfect, but it handles and steers pretty well. Like Rob, I'm running cross over steering with the tie rod over the knuckle. I guess I could raise up the axle side track bar mount some to get the angles perfectly parallel, but I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. The high clearance lowers are the way to go.

 

[XJensen]

Exactly what i need, thanks.

 

[XJ_ranger]

I am worried about track bar angles mostly

Josh, here's pics of my truss and brackets:

My track bar and drag link angles aren't perfect, but it handles and steers pretty well. Like Rob, I'm running cross over steering with the tie rod over the knuckle. I guess I could raise up the axle side track bar mount some to get the angles perfectly parallel, but I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. The high clearance lowers are the way to go.

I had the 'short' trackbar like most guys do, with the axle side inside the inner coil, and noticed a huge difference in the rig when I spent the time to put the mount in front of the coil.

Please ignore the yellow -

^^Sucked^^

Some cardboard, some cutting torch, some flap disc -

Phil throwing up the hook-em-Horns -

Much happier with this setup -

more photos here of my ghetto fab.
http://www.opiebennett.com/images/Jeep/Shop11407/index.html

I think it only took 1 day to do all that junk, so not too bad. My lowers were even with tube centerline, and the single upper was much higher - but with the radius arms that you have planned, I think the geometry doesn't matter nearly as much.

I really don't see the need to truss a HP44 with its 1/2" wall axle tubes, unless that's the cool thing to do now.

EDIT: The only thing to worry about / keep in mind, is that my up-travel was then limited by the trackbar to oil pan clearance. I made some retarted long bump stops, that didn't work, and eventually switched to airshocks and set them such that the trackbar never got to the oil pan. So, consider a bend in the trackbar, and appropriate bump stops when going to the high steer / high trakbar. Also note that the clearance for the tie rod got really tight at full turn with that trackbar mount, and with my front axle pushed forward (moving the coil buckets back on the axle, which probably made the space for this possible) the pitman arm to tie rod and trackbar clearance was at a premium at full stuff and 1/2 turn passenger I think. Lots going on.

Airshocks and full hydro was my long term solution

Edit 2: also, the trackbar doesn't have to be perfectly square to the body - meaning that the frame end can be further forward or further back than the axle end if need be to fit packaging. Not too extreme, but a couple inches wouldn't cause me to lose any sleep.

 

[Bryan C.]

I had the 'short' trackbar like most guys do, with the axle side inside the inner coil, and noticed a huge difference in the rig when I spent the time to put the mount in front of the coil.

I have a short track bar (all the girls say it is average but OK, haha) and I wish it was longer as well. It sets up a really weird steering push/oversteer feel when the body rolls. Took some time to get used to, but it works out ok if needed. Take a look at Cal's KOH car and where he and Richard put the track bar axle end mount on their D44. If I ever get my D44 installed I plan to do something similar.

 

[#S194]

I like the extra length on the track bar Opie. That's a mod I'm going to have to look into. A little extra length is alwaya a good thing :looney:

 

[XJensen]

Made A Little Progress.

I Got The Two BrokenCross Member Bolts Out And Prepped The Rails For Stiffeners

Also Mocked Up The Two Main Shifters. May Move Them Back Some More, The Plan Is To Put The Third In front Of The Twin Sticks

 

[Jbh97009]

You using the cable shifter or ???

 

[knucklehead 61]

check the throw of the 3rd shifter to make sure you don't whack your knuckles shifting it.
that's why i mounted mine on the passenger side of the tranny hump.

 

[XJensen]

You using the cable shifter or ???

Standard xj shifter. The third shifter is on a cable.

I'll get some pics up later. I hope to make more progress this week

 

[Jbh97009]

Look forward to seeing how it turns out!

 

[XJensen]

check the throw of the 3rd shifter to make sure you don't whack your knuckles shifting it.
that's why i mounted mine on the passenger side of the tranny hump.

I mocked it up last night and it looks like it will work if I mount it low to keep the throw shorter. The shifter will be vertical in the forward position as much as possible.

 

[XJensen]

I set the twin sticks back as far as I could without opening up the back of the hole. I had to open it up toward the drivers side.

 

[Rob D]

I set the twin sticks back as far as I could without opening up the back of the hole. I had to open it up toward the drivers side.

Are those the XJ shifters from AA? For my '91 I had to cut and re-weld them to fit. The curve that AA puts into the shifters put them into my e-brake handle. So now they are just about straight above the pivots but bent to come together just enough so the knobs don't hit when I shift one or the other.

 

[XJensen]

Yes they are the aa xj shifters. I had plenty of threaded rod with the 4 speed to put the fulcrum anywhere from just before the dash to the e brake. I took 4 inches or so off the mounting tube to center it in the stock hole, maybe slightly back. I put the sticks in high range and adjusted them just before they hit the console.

They nearly hit when the rear stick is one click up on the curved. I was worried they would hit and thought I would need to cut them as well, or drastically offset them. They really couldn't be shaped any better and the knobs are almost perfectly lined up when in the same gear

 

[XJensen]

FYI for Tim or anyone else with an atlas 4 speed.

I call to check on filling both cases and the suggested method is to fill the entire 2.5l into the main case. As soon as it turns it will push oil everywhere needed including the front planetary reduction box.

 

[XJensen]

I had Some time tonight so I stared at the jeep for two hours thinking about the third shifter and routing the cable.

Tired of second guessing and somewhat happy withe the plan i cut some metal and mocked it up. I will cut the whole piece out and tack in a new bracket for the final product but this proved there should be room for the shifters and the cable.

The third shifter will be straight up when in high and back as shown in the pics when in low.

The pic show both cases in low.

 

[XJensen]

Progress is slow. Installed u joints!