New Renix Coolant Bottle and Cap problems

Update on the Quadratec bottle: Its peeing just a bit (I can go a month without adding coolant at least) under the cap again.

I've got a spare factory bottle (new, took it in the shorts at the stealership).
under the seat for when it get bad.
 
Mudweiserjeep said:
I have had mine from GERR for about a month also. Haven't had any problems.
Happy customer here....


I've had my GERR bottle in for a few months now. Zero issues with it. All you other Renix guys and gals shouldn't hesitate to order from Gerr.

:thumbup:
 
Nevada City Sparky said:
Update on the Quadratec bottle: Its peeing just a bit (I can go a month without adding coolant at least) under the cap again.

I've got a spare factory bottle (new, took it in the shorts at the stealership).
under the seat for when it get bad.

Have you tried the hose clamp on the bottle cap trick yet? My new one was leaking significantly and the hose clamp stopped it completely.
 
I've found that keeping the temps down by making sure the rest of the system is working properly relieves extra stress on the bottle, and having a sealed bottle that does not leak air or coolant is mandatory. I have a new bottle now, but it does release a little fluid when water temp gets above 210, has only happened twice so far in a month. gonna try the hose clamp, and go with a Mac aluminum after I upgrade my radiator.
 
AlabamaDan said:
I like that Mac's tank/bottle, but it sure is expensive. Seems like someone could fab one for much less.

Yeah i work at a HVAC company, and the guys in the shop say they could make it pretty easily as long as the neck was purchased (i think i found it online for $25). SInce i have been fairly happy with the one from gerr offroad, i havent looked into it any further.

As an update, my bottle from gerr-offroad did start to leak. The bottle seems intact, but the cap looks a bit deformed. I can certainly tighten it too tight now stripping it off its threads. I had to find a good combination of "tightness" to make it work. If i went too tight, the pressure would make it strip and leak, too loose and same result. I found that if i tighten it just a little passed where it starts to get almost too hard to tighten then its perfect :P Im soon going to put a hose clamp around it.

I think the bottom line is that the design blows. I just wish we could do aluminum ones that had a clear section to see fluid.
 
I've been there with this problem too. I put a brand new cap and bottle on after I replaced my head gasket due to a bottle failure. Within a week the new bottle and cap were messed up. I put the teflon tape about a 1/16th of an inch thick around the threads and put the cap back on and havent touched it since. I'm getting ready to do a '91 xj coolant system swap so I'll do away with that crap.
 
Update, My hose clamp is still working perfectly, no leaks.

My daughter is driving hers now, new head gasket, recent jeep purchase, has all new coolant system and hoses and bottle and radiator, and so far the new bottle is holding at 205 F, but I have a clamp waiting for it. The caps seem to hold for 6 to 12 weeks under dialy use, before they stretch enough to start causing the problem.

I bet a metal cap, if some one ever made one might solve the problem! But for now the hose clamp is a simple, cheap, and seems to be a permanent fix for the cap problem.
 
My cap on my new tank started pissing, so I did the hose clamp. Worked for a week, then started pissing again. The fix that lasted me all summer so far is this: Took the rubber washer out of the cap. installed the washer from the old cap, then stacked washer from the new cap on top of the old one. I left the hose clamp on for good measure, and it has not leaked at all since. <crossing fingers> You can probably get a good washer from home depot to do the same thing! My cooling system works so good now that when this tank finally goes (which it will) I am getting the MAC aluminum direct bolt in upgrade.
 
xj88superjeep said:
My cap on my new tank started pissing, so I did the hose clamp. Worked for a week, then started pissing again. The fix that lasted me all summer so far is this: Took the rubber washer out of the cap. installed the washer from the old cap, then stacked washer from the new cap on top of the old one. I left the hose clamp on for good measure, and it has not leaked at all since. <crossing fingers> You can probably get a good washer from home depot to do the same thing! My cooling system works so good now that when this tank finally goes (which it will) I am getting the MAC aluminum direct bolt in upgrade.

YEah im really starting to think MAC is the way to go... i wonder however if its possible to make a section of it clear so we could see the fluid level without removing the cap?
 
Muad'Dib said:
YEah im really starting to think MAC is the way to go... i wonder however if its possible to make a section of it clear so we could see the fluid level without removing the cap?
Call in order, last time I checked they could do a sight glass for $155.
(about 18mo. ago)
 
Muad'Dib said:
YEah im really starting to think MAC is the way to go... i wonder however if its possible to make a section of it clear so we could see the fluid level without removing the cap?

I'm not really worried about the sight window, because if you think about it, even if you see that it is low, you can't take the cap off to add water till it's cool anyway. And honestly, there's no sight window for the oil, but we never complain about pulling the dipstick out to check it, so that's a small thing. I figure if I never smell it, it won't be low, and if it does get low I will see it in the temp gauge. Other than that, I'll just pop the cap whenever I pull the dipstick.
 
X2 on the mac's surge tank. The oem is a piss poor design, even at the mopar level it's average at best. I just replaced mine on Sunday 08-10-08 with the standard finish tank. I think it was $133 shipped to my door. My advice is spend the money on a quality part your xj deserves it. It fits in the bracket nicely. I just got sick of buying those plastic fantastic tanks. Just check my coolant level when cold.
 
FWIW my son's Ford Taurus has a plastic pressure bottle too, and it is old with no problems. He has had the 96 for 2 years now, with no problem with the old plastic bottle or cap. It does have a better cap design in my opion. It can not be overtightened, it clicks at the sweet spot like the new gas caps do.

Other than the hood crushing my old bottle after a few years (I need to lower the shelf), the recent cap problem is the only trouble I have had. And I have found three different cap variations on the 5 old and new bottles I have had so far!!!! There was a report of bad caps here about 2 years ago.
 
Dang! What was it a week ago I said my bottle was fine, not this afternoon I notice it's spraying a small stream of coolant. I still can't afford that cool metal one, so looks like another one from the JY is the way I'm going.
 
AlabamaDan said:
Dang! What was it a week ago I said my bottle was fine, not this afternoon I notice it's spraying a small stream of coolant. I still can't afford that cool metal one, so looks like another one from the JY is the way I'm going.

Try the hose clamp on the cap trick. It worked for me.
 
I didn't read all the posts but I will reply anyway. I have had zero luck with coolant bottles from anywhere but the dealer. I'm running the dealer bottle and cap and a 195 T-stat with no issues now for 3 years. I went through 3 aftermarket bottles in six months before spending the extra cash. I also lowered my coolant bottle shelf so the cap doesnt hit the hood when it swells a little and I have placed a rubber matt under the bottle on the shelf to keep the shelf from rubbing the bottle.

This pic kinda shows what I have done.
P1010508.jpg
 
I'm still on the replacement bottle I got from Quadratech almost 2 years ago. The caps suck. I got a OEM cap from the dealer and it's fine with no clamp now.
 
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