New oiling project........

[RCP Phx]

Well I have massaged the pan as far as it will go. Tomorrow I will fit the pump for mock-up of the new pick-up tube. In the mean time I received all my fittings and have several configurations I can go with.

 

[RCP Phx]

It's the end of a long day! I finally got to bolt the oil pump(primary) into the pan. Besides the work on the pan, my jig took some work. After that I still had to grind on the pump to get any clearance(I will gain more with the pan gasket). I installed the pick-up tube and got the whole thing put together. I painted the area that I need to enter along with a 4qt line. Tomorrow when the suns up I'll get some pics.

 

[RCP Phx]

I wished I had a spare motor to work with, but I have to deal with it the hard way. If you can see in the pics the blue marks represent the main bearing webs. Now all I need to do is crawl under the jeep to see where I can enter the pan(hope within my window).

 

[RCP Phx]

I spent today under the Jeep and because of the starter my window got pretty narrow(down to less than 3"). Last night I tried to put a 90* bend in some 3/8"-.050" wall chromoly, I almost got it when it kinked(my bender has a 1" radius). I am looking at coming in with a totally straight piece right now but I can also get the thinner wall tubing to test with.

 

[RCP Phx]

Sunday I finally drilled a penetration into the pan(commitment time) and started fitting a pick-up tube. Straight in didn't work, so I tried a kick in it(close but not quite) so I added another kick. I thought that was a go until I bolted the main pump back in, so I added another kick for a total of 3 - 15* bends and it looks like a go. I'll start the welding tomorrow and take some pics.

 

[RCP Phx]

Re: oil pan's done

Came out pretty good, my penetration is 3" above the oil level and I tried to mimic the factory p/u while still missing it. The straight AN fitting should clear the starter/oil filter but the 45* fitting definitely will. Now all I have to is find time to install it, in the mean time I have to work on the pump bracket and tap the oil system.

 

[RCP Phx]

I'll be working on my bracket today, but in the mean time I received my switch and cable for the dash wiring.

 

[RCP Phx]

I just finished up the the pump bracket. It mounts to the pass side frame rail motor mount directly below the coolant reservoir on a vertical tab(never knew what that was for). It's a kind of tight fit between the a/c hoses, but it fits!

 

[RCP Phx]

Today I received what I hope is the last orders to put this all together. I got my weatherproof plug/connector for the pump, a ATO fuse holder for the harness, and a new Pioneer Multi-media receiver(the old Pioneer is going in the other 2000) since I need to get in the center dash section to install the switch. What's nice is the new receiver is only about half the depth and weight.

 

[RCP Phx]

pumps in

It came out good with a good amount a space.

 

[old_man]

How about a completely different solution to the issue? How about an oil pressure switch that keeps the ignition from firing until the oil pressure comes up. Rotating the engine while not firing causes very little wear. The pressures from the combustion cause the bulk of the friction. Cranking brings up the oil pressure on its own.

 

[RCP Phx]

How about a completely different solution to the issue? How about an oil pressure switch that keeps the ignition from firing until the oil pressure comes up. Rotating the engine while not firing causes very little wear. The pressures from the combustion cause the bulk of the friction. Cranking brings up the oil pressure on its own.

See post #4, plus I've been doing it this way for 40 years.

 

[RCP Phx]

This afternoon I got the pressure line cut and fit-up. It's not very long but that's a good thing. I still have to tap the pressure sender block to tie it in.

 

[RCP Phx]

How about a completely different solution to the issue? How about an oil pressure switch that keeps the ignition from firing until the oil pressure comes up. Rotating the engine while not firing causes very little wear. The pressures from the combustion cause the bulk of the friction. Cranking brings up the oil pressure on its own.

From another thread....

All engines see their most wear at start-up and with a 10k stroker you kind of want to protect that(plus there is the thought of a Turbo which requires after-oiling).

I wanted to add that I'd also like to park this thing vs a DD, that means when I do come out to fire it up I don't want to do anything but push a button. Another side benefit is after a oil change all you have to do is hit the button!

 

[RCP Phx]

Got a little done this weekend! Got the new stereo installed(it's great) and my push button switch. Got the wiring out to the pump, I will work on the rest tomorrow. I also finished up the pressure tap and installed.

 

[Anak]

Nice work.

Will that allow you to bring your oil filter out the top? Or will you have to remove the oil filter out the bottom? One of the little things I like about these straight sixes is the fact that I don't have to be under the vehicle when I pull off that horizontally mounted oil filter.

 

[RCP Phx]

Tanks, The filter removal shouldn't change any, I'll take a better pic when I'm done. Today it's cold and rainy but the only thing left to do is finish the wiring(next couple days) and install the pan this weekend to complete this project. I have the pick-up hose done and ready to go.

 

[kastein]

I'm glad to see you hooked in at the sender fitting for the prelube output instead of modifying a filter adapter, was going to suggest that. Is that a small filter I see connected to it with a 90deg fitting? I hope so.

The only thing I'd worry about in what I'm seeing here is that the flex line from the prelube pump to the inline filter looks like it might be stiffer than the 90 fitting from the filter to the engine. I'd hate to see that 90 stress fracture over time and dump all your oil. I might be overestimating how stiff the flexible line is though.

 

[RCP Phx]

That red fitting is the check valve, the oil goes in before the filter and #4 braided is very flexible.

 

[RCP Phx]

I finished up the harness less tying in the power/ground. Today I will remove my RE track-bar brace and tomorrow I will put it up on jack stands, drain the oil, and start removing hardware.