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New KL
- Thread starter Wiser
- Start date
Mighty.Mighty_XJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- VA ... in the dark
I know I don't, but I noticed that you also have a '91 XJ. Aside from the obvious bells and whistles, in your opinion - how do they compare?
Sorry barely saw this! My take on the new Cherokee KL is it would take a lot of upgrading to get it anywhere comparable to my 1991. Unfortunately, I didn’t buy the Trail Hawk(like the rubicon) edition so I can’t speak for that trim. My wife and I bought the Latitude edition. Basically it’s equipped with an all wheel drive system. It does not have a transfer case. The drivetrain is what’s called the ActiveDrive1 with the hammerhead 2.0L motor. Im getting about 26mpg. The AD1 is controlled by turning a knob to select the terrain or road surface you will be driving on. Basically all it does is change the shift points in the 9speed transmission. They’re starting to get some aftermarket support with lifts, armour and such. Only time will tell how people will be modding these jeeps. In the end, I bought the Jeep for my wife and newborn. I feel it does its job as far as a safe family car but comes nowhere close to the XJ.
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Coach Bruce
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- San Diego, CA
I have a friend with a old cj and his wife has the Trailhawk we went and did some easy trails a few weeks ago and I must say I was impressed the stock Trailhawk did very well. It certainly could use some ground clearance though.
The trailhawk is definitely impressive for what it is. Wish it came with solid axles and an actual engine/trans/transfercase
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lawsoncl
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- North Idaho
Honest, it actually does have an engine, trans, and xfer xcase. :}
I recently bought a used 2014 trailhawk with the V6. My only complaints are the anemic headlights (fixed with an HID upgrade), and how aggressively it upshifts. It tries real hard to keep your rpm under 2k to maximize your mileage. Stomping on the pedal usually means waiting 1-2 seconds while it downshifts a few gears. Or you reach down and click it into sport mode which is far more fun to drive, or top the shifter over and force it down a gear or two before you gun it to pass. That 271 HP is kinda nice too. The remote start with heated leather seats and steering wheel are awesome in winter.
On-road, it handles very nice. Off-road, it's very capable although it feels way heavier than my MJ (5.5" lift on 32s) - which makes sense as it's over 1000 lbs heavier. I much prefer the MJ for blasting full speed through snow and mud.
deadante
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Phoenix, Arizona, USA
How are you liking your KL?
Honestly, I wish I would’ve gotten the Trail Hawk version. The 4cyl is a dog with the 8 speed transmission.
tonytech
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Las Vegas, Nevada, USA
What year of Trail Hawk is the best? My brother is planning to buy one.
Calvin Bnvds
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Colorado
I think he answered it, it's a 2018 model. Did you read the thread?
jeep ride
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- West Virginia 25064
I worked with a guy who bought brand new trailhawk first year they came out less than a year later he traded it off because of transmission problems.
- Location
- West Sacramento, CA
No he didn’t, he said he had a 2018. Did you read the thread?
Driving a 2015 Trailhawk V6 for the last year and a half or so:
have only plus sized the tires, 245x70r17 Hankook Dynapro At2
It's comfortable, and delicate, the gizmos and doodads keep it moving when needed as tires grab air while off-road. It likes a little momentum I've discovered, but I have a hard time wanting to give it much of a bump (just feels delicate). Gas mileage is nice if I keep off the skinny and stay the speed limit.
An old battery (an optima someone put in, 2017) was disabling the auto start stop feature for me, that was nice. It's a feature which bothers me to no end. Well a cold day no start and new battery the other day now I have to put up with red light and parking engine stop/start shenanigans. Looking at disable solutions rather than pulling the battery checker lead, there is the Smart Stop Start or the OBDLink option $130 to $120 respectively (still just empty every pocket now with European panache)
Update:
Sometime after the last post I had some take-off struts from a low milage 19' or 20' KL Trailhawk installed along with an overdue tire rotation. This was after I had one strut slowly fail after hitting a hole in a dirt road at some speed. Well the shop screwed something up, but I thought it was my not rotating tires enough so I assumed it was the unevenly wear tires all along, I put up with more vibration than I should have and for way too long.
Last year; had to have new strut assemblies and front lower arms put in, w/ same uneven worn tires the vibes disappeared, so I knew then I should have questioned that strut job, something was off.
Last summer, did the radiator, (what a real total pain), then the Dorman oil filter housing upgrade & the plugs - also a pain.
In November one of the new lower arms failed, just doing the dirt road into Canyonlands Maze district, the shop warrantied the arm and covered the replacement.
I've put on 140k, now it has more mileage than my XJ, just got it's second set of tires (keeping a plus 1; 245x70r17), and it needs replacement front lower ball joints, tie rods, and an exhaust flex pipe repair. I have done some of the "hardest" trials it's been on since those fixes last year; including Arch Canyon & recent ExpUT Nevada Ghost town tour. Low range wouldn't engage during the later trip, really could have used the sway bars disconnected, the lower gearing for climbs/descents, and the locker a time or two, but got through. Probably related to not getting alignment done recently, will see after next weekends repairs and alignment. It wasn't meant to be a dd but it has been doing double duty, I need to get my dd running again.
Notes:
Radiator leak - common, for a 2015 at upper driver side corner of the radiator
___ At purchase, 80k miles, there was an antifreeze smell (same w/ another one I test drove) leaked very very slowly, slowly got worse, then, eventually, rapidly became an issue.
___ New radiator was much thinner (making reinstall just slightly easier, no not really), all good since, even on the hottest maximum A/C use days lately, temps stay good, level stays full.
___ What fluid to get is a common question, with the leak I had it unintentionally flushed out with readily avialable multi app stuff already anyway, so I kept using that, again no issues since.
Oil adapter housing - perfect time to do it is when doing plugs hidden by intake, the Dorman upgrade kit is nice and complete, one other sensor is recommended, which I didn't get.
Blower motor, easy swap, (they didn't build the car around it like on a P1 Volvo) but if air doesn't blow strong after swap, and you've followed someone out in the dirt, alot...
___ change in cabin air filter. What - a - difference!
Tire Rotation - every oil change (I need to do better).
Alignment - I think the rear camber goes negative every offroad trip, or any time you look at it funny... I'm wondering, with my current use, if quarterly might be often enough?
Exhaust flex pipe - last couple long snowy winters contributed - very common to rust out they say.
Front brakes, pretty straight forward, I picked up a tool I didn't already have iirc.
Rear RDU/RDM (whatever they call it) fluid: On one side where seals are near the exhaust it's common to leak, though I havn't looked at mine, internet suggests to keep it topped off.
___It takes some specific stuff so I call the Dealership: a national backorder for that fluid, he said something about needing to try to pull a favor to get me a quart, nothing, it's been a while.
Key Fobs: there are little metallic "cups" in between the rubber buttons and the printed circuit board inside the fob, they get out of position (or in one of mine = go missing)
ymmv
GTT24 14
Sometime after the last post I had some take-off struts from a low milage 19' or 20' KL Trailhawk installed along with an overdue tire rotation. This was after I had one strut slowly fail after hitting a hole in a dirt road at some speed. Well the shop screwed something up, but I thought it was my not rotating tires enough so I assumed it was the unevenly wear tires all along, I put up with more vibration than I should have and for way too long.
Last year; had to have new strut assemblies and front lower arms put in, w/ same uneven worn tires the vibes disappeared, so I knew then I should have questioned that strut job, something was off.
Last summer, did the radiator, (what a real total pain), then the Dorman oil filter housing upgrade & the plugs - also a pain.
In November one of the new lower arms failed, just doing the dirt road into Canyonlands Maze district, the shop warrantied the arm and covered the replacement.
I've put on 140k, now it has more mileage than my XJ, just got it's second set of tires (keeping a plus 1; 245x70r17), and it needs replacement front lower ball joints, tie rods, and an exhaust flex pipe repair. I have done some of the "hardest" trials it's been on since those fixes last year; including Arch Canyon & recent ExpUT Nevada Ghost town tour. Low range wouldn't engage during the later trip, really could have used the sway bars disconnected, the lower gearing for climbs/descents, and the locker a time or two, but got through. Probably related to not getting alignment done recently, will see after next weekends repairs and alignment. It wasn't meant to be a dd but it has been doing double duty, I need to get my dd running again.
Notes:
Radiator leak - common, for a 2015 at upper driver side corner of the radiator
___ At purchase, 80k miles, there was an antifreeze smell (same w/ another one I test drove) leaked very very slowly, slowly got worse, then, eventually, rapidly became an issue.
___ New radiator was much thinner (making reinstall just slightly easier, no not really), all good since, even on the hottest maximum A/C use days lately, temps stay good, level stays full.
___ What fluid to get is a common question, with the leak I had it unintentionally flushed out with readily avialable multi app stuff already anyway, so I kept using that, again no issues since.
Oil adapter housing - perfect time to do it is when doing plugs hidden by intake, the Dorman upgrade kit is nice and complete, one other sensor is recommended, which I didn't get.
Blower motor, easy swap, (they didn't build the car around it like on a P1 Volvo) but if air doesn't blow strong after swap, and you've followed someone out in the dirt, alot...
___ change in cabin air filter. What - a - difference!
Tire Rotation - every oil change (I need to do better).
Alignment - I think the rear camber goes negative every offroad trip, or any time you look at it funny... I'm wondering, with my current use, if quarterly might be often enough?
Exhaust flex pipe - last couple long snowy winters contributed - very common to rust out they say.
Front brakes, pretty straight forward, I picked up a tool I didn't already have iirc.
Rear RDU/RDM (whatever they call it) fluid: On one side where seals are near the exhaust it's common to leak, though I havn't looked at mine, internet suggests to keep it topped off.
___It takes some specific stuff so I call the Dealership: a national backorder for that fluid, he said something about needing to try to pull a favor to get me a quart, nothing, it's been a while.
Key Fobs: there are little metallic "cups" in between the rubber buttons and the printed circuit board inside the fob, they get out of position (or in one of mine = go missing)
ymmv
GTT24 14
lawsoncl
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- North Idaho
Had the same experience of vibration and tire cupping from a bad bushings on the front lower control arms. I thought struts at first until I got a good look at the torn bushings. I need to do the front right again after a bad pothole. Poor design in my opinion. The rear bushing gets really stressed under articulation, breaking hard, or hitting potholes.
