New Jersey Lift Laws new website

[vetteboy]

Vette - I wish Dan was still around for this one.

Yeah, really.

I'd be interested to see how much of a disaster my rig would make of that worksheet. :gag: I might try for it in a few months depending on how well things clean up. At least I know my drag link angle will be OK.

 

[NJLiftLaws]

I'd be interested to see how much of a disaster my rig would make of that worksheet. :gag:

They will need serveral worksheets for your rig and a super computer for the calculations .

I'm stilling gathering info from all 3 stations, but I have learned a bit more on the front mud flap changes.

Front flaps are needed only if the tires extend beyond the fender well containment. The flap width would then be limited to the tread percentage outside of fender well. The idea here is to contain any debris the outer tire section could kick up. Anything within the fender well will be contained by that and the undercarriage.

They seem to be extending the length a bit too. Old rule was roughly half the tire diameter was covered you were good. This translated generally to flap length to the axle center line. Guideline now seems to be moving to 2/3 tire coverage.This applies to both front / rear.

I'm hoping to get the Trenton contact later today. I can't find it so I've contacted the guy that was directly work with him.

 

[vetteboy]

Front flaps are needed only if the tires extend beyond the fender well containment. The flap width would then be limited to the tread percentage outside of fender well. The idea here is to contain any debris the outer tire section could kick up. Anything within the fender well will be contained by that and the undercarriage.

Wait...so the fender flares don't have to extend over the width of the tire, if you've got a mud flap?

Like here:

I'd be OK if I had a front mud flap that extended out a little further?

Is that the same situation for the rear as well?

I would like that solution better than having to put really wide flares on...

 

[NJLiftLaws]

Wait...so the fender flares don't have to extend over the width of the tire, if you've got a mud flap?

Virtually positive your rig wouldn't pass at any of the stations. Neither will mine, same issue. You need full wheel well coverage covering not only the the tread, but your sidewalls as well. Then add mud flaps for the remaining road kick up protention.

Using the photos of the TJ on the lift site as an example. The bushwackers cover the wheel well issue. The mud flap width (on the front) would only need to be the width of the bushwacker flare, instead of the full width of the tire. On the rear they still need to be complete width of the tire.

http://home.comcast.net/~kayaker121/NJLiftLaws.html

Basically they are using the mud flaps to extend complete tire width protection on the rear face of all tires. The only difference being in the front the flap only needs to be the width of the wheel well flare that covers the outer portion of the tire.

Last summer I saw a TJ that failed due to the sidebiter lugs on the sidewalls which was the only part of the tire that extended beyond her bushwackers by .25". The tread was fully covered. When I asked about it, Morristown said any tread configuration extending to the sidewalls is considered active tread. I thought Morristown made an unfair call on that, but it stuck.

Since this morning two of us have called all 3 stations. As I'm sure you can guess, we are now getting conflicting answers. Asbury was the only consistent one.

Morristown
1) Front not needed at all, rear a must, full width at 6" to 8" from ground.
2) Front and rear needed (full tire width) extending 1/2 to 2/3 tire diameter length.

Asbury
1) Front needed with width equal to tire width that exceeds wheel well.
Rear needed (full tire width) extending 1/2 tire diameter length

2) Front needed with width equal to tire width that exceeds wheel well.
Rear needed (full tire width) extending 1/2 tire diameter length

Winslow
1) Front might slide if none used. Rear a must, full width and 2/3 tire diameter length.
2) Small front needed (full tire width) extending to axle center line. Rear needed (full tire width) extending 1/2 tire diameter length.

When I take my rig through, I'm planning on using Flexy Flair extensions on the Wheel wells to cover the outer tire along with full width mud flaps all around as previously required.

According the manager of Morristown today, their manual was changed about 6 months ago loosening front mud flap requirements (width) and increasing rear mud flap requirements (length).

 

[jerseyjeep01]

I will get pics up tomorrow when I have better light. Thanks a lot for all your help.

 

[jerseyjeep01]

Ok, If this helps I measured my drag link and it at 20 degrees.

 

[NJLiftLaws]

If you can post a picture I'll forward to the DOT inspection engineer in Trenton.

 

[shovelracer]

Hello, Im new here. I want to say what an awesome link this is you guys have for NJ Lift Laws. A few years ago when I was more active into clubs and what not we had lots of good info at hand. That has all gone away as people have moved on. Im very glad to see someone is keeping it alive.

Although I am not an XJ owner some of you seem to have very good access to the state info. My vehicle is actually a 98 Toyota Tacoma Reg Cab 4x4 2.7L. I have been though high rise 2 times, and it lapsed last year cause I took it off the road to make some repairs and I am finally getting around to it. The first time it went through my door height was 28", and the second time it was 29". Also the second time it was with a SAS. Well the rear portion of the frame is rotted out, but I have too much money into this rig to trade it in on the "Tacoma Recall". So I am rebuilding it back to "like new" condition in the hopes of getting another 10+ years of sunday driving out of it. For what its worth the vehicle sees 85% trailered off road time and the rest is casual cruising at events or into town, but I like the idea of being able to keep it legal.

The frame repair I was told is OK to repair as long as I do a professional job and was warned that they will be going over it with a fine tooth comb. Im sure they will. I just hope they put everything back since the last time I went through they failed to tighten the lugs on a wheel and it nearly fell off on the way home and trashed the rim in the process.

Anyways I am looking to relocate the fuel tank and am considering a fuel cell, but not sure how they would feel about that yet. So that is question 1, since Ive found lots of useful info about fuel cells, but none pertaining to the NJ inspection specifically. Mainly the filler neck/gas cap issue and the non-dot issue.

Secondly if one of you with access to the states info could pull up the door height for my vehicle, that would be fantastic. Both times I was told I couldnt go any higher, but there seems to be some room for error in the answer. Right now I am looking at 29.5-30" for the mods I plan.

Thanks for humoring my questions being a foreign vehicle owner and all. Cheers

 

[NJLiftLaws]

I've been told fuel cells can be very tricky with inspection. Your frame repairs may also push you into the 'recontructed' aspect of inspection. I currently have little knowledge in this area, but others may chime in. l would suggest calling both Asbury Park and Winslow on both questions. See if you get the same answers. I'd start with the OE door sill height for your year, make, model and trim package. Then go into the fuel cell requirements. If the answers differ, call Morristown to see if they mirror either of the other stations.

 

[Rock2pus]

I think you may squeak thru with a fuel cell if you use the factory style filler neck and take care to keep all the vapor canisters and recovery that the OE tank used, although as we have seen, you may in the end be at the whim of the inspector that you get. I went thru hell last year getting mine thru, and had to strip my rear seats and bumpers to get thru the stability, and once that weight came off, had to lower the truck to get the height. AS AN IMPORTANT NOTE : Dont give them any reason to believe your xj is a "Sport"...you will only be allowed 29" to the door (some sports had slightly lower springs) I know it's silly, but it was an issue brought up at winslow, and i simply removed my stickers...
Rich

 

[warpigxj]

(bonus points to anyone who knows that location)

if i get the location right what do i get?

 

[Dest]

Do you think an XJ thats been modified for leafs in the front would have more trouble passing?

 

[rockhard4x4]

Do you think an XJ thats been modified for leafs in the front would have more trouble passing?

from what i heard you can have anything welded to your frame to change your suspension

 

[Dest]

Do you think it would make it more difficult to past the tilt test? I'm unfamiliar with how having leafs in the front effect handling and the like.

 

[Dest]

Out of curiosity have to guys considered compiling what lifts have passed/failed? It'd be nice to know if a lift someone was going to buy would pass before purchase.

 

[NJLiftLaws]

Out of curiosity have to guys considered compiling what lifts have passed/failed? It'd be nice to know if a lift someone was going to buy would pass before purchase.

Most vendor supplied kits would pass as designed. Even fairly poor quality kits would pass if installed as designed without compounded modifications.

One caveat would be the GVWR of the target vehicle. For example:
A) TJ-1 has a GVWR 4450, limiting it to 7" total lift.
B) TJ-2 same year different trim package or options, has a GVWR of 4580. This rig is limited to 9" total lift.

Lets say owner of TJ-1 wants to run 35's and buys a 6" lift. Combine the lift gained by tires and he's over the 7" limit for his rig.

TJ-2 buys the same kit and 35's. He will probably be under the 9" limit for his rig.

Bottom line you need to know the OE starting point high rise will use in their calculations. Then you need to factor in all the modifications you're planning on making.

Little things like spacers, axle tubes (if changed) after market bumpers, winches etc all affect total lift.

 

[Pedro7]

hye thanks a lot, great info. I need inspection soon. I think im just gonna throw stock tires on for the moment and try my luck. I am only at 3" of lift

 

[Dest]

What size tires are you running if your worried about passing with 3" of lift?

 

[NJLiftLaws]

I think im just gonna throw stock tires on for the moment and try my luck. I am only at 3" of lift

As Dest pointed out, depends on tires you're running, amount of sag (if any) with your 3" lift, etc. But yes, you are probably close to or slightly over the 4" limit.

Normal inspection can't fail you for being over 4" if they determine that is the case. They can only refer you to high rise and refuse to inspect your rig. They can't slap a 'failed' sticker on your rig for being over 4", as they can't apply high rise requirements. Your only loss would be time invested in trying to go through normal inspection.

When factoring lift gained by tires:
1) The actual lift gained by increasing tire size is half of the diameter of the change made. So if you moved from a 28" to a 32" tire, lift gain is 2" or less.
2) Lift gained is based on actual tire diameter, not rated tire diameter. A rated 33" may have an actual loaded diameter of 31". Using the example in (1) the 28" may have had an actual diameter of 27" while the 32" actual is 30.5". In this case going from 28's to 32 yields an actual lift of 1.75".

Most tires actual diameter is less then the rated diameter under load (i.e. mounted).

Be aware, passing normal inspection by use of OE tires is fine, as long as you always use those tires while on the street. However, if you swap your larger tires and those tires put you're total lift over the 4" limit you're no longer legal. Probably not an issue unless you are involved in an accident and it is discovered your rig wasn't properly inspected. At that point, all kinds of potential liability exposure are possible. This is a risk that must be weighed on an individual basis.

 

[Dest]

And if Rangers catch you for some reason you're boned as well.

Q: Where do they measure from the door? Door open/closed and front/rear?
Also has anyone passed with the front swaybar removed? I believe that would help pass the tilt. Has anyone upgraded/modified the swaybar to fix a previously failed attempt?