burntkat
NAXJA Member #1145
- Location
- Charleston, SC
Ah, it's a thing of beauty.
I am looking to use those exact plates on my 90 and my son's 97. GREAT company!
New guy build-The Family Truckster
- Thread starter SByota
- Start date
Ah, it's a thing of beauty.
I am looking to use those exact plates on my 90 and my son's 97. GREAT company!
SByota
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Ventura, CA
More work on the WJ knuckles. Double shear for all the steering joints.
burntkat
NAXJA Member #1145
- Location
- Charleston, SC
Beautiful.
Those knuckles are cast iron, right? How are you preheating/quenching?
Those knuckles are cast iron, right? How are you preheating/quenching?
SByota
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Ventura, CA
Thanks. I did a lot of reading on various forums about welding to knuckles/center sections. They are a lot of opinions on what is the "correct" way to weld mild steel to these parts. Here is what I did.
Soaked the knuckles in apple cider vinegar to clean the rust off. This did a great job of getting them clean/rust free.
I used an old set of unit bearings to secure the spacer for welding. I pre-heated the knuckle with a MAPP gas torch to about 300 degrees then tacked them up with using my TIG welder at about 180 amps with 3/32" ER70S2 filler. I pulled the unit bearing off, then welded them up. I alternated the sides when welding to spread the heat around.
I welding them using 2 passes, and lots of post flow to prevent "hot cracking" from the two different materials cooling at different rates. It welded pretty smoothly. I let them cool in open air on my work bench. It took about 5 hours for them too cool completely. You can see a little bit of garbage from the knuckle in the surface of the welds in the picture. I'm happy with how they came out.
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burntkat
NAXJA Member #1145
- Location
- Charleston, SC
They look good. I'm curious how you managed temps- specifically how you determined the initial preheat temp- maybe an IR non-contact thermometer?
Also, more concerned with the dual-sheer bracket welding. The spacers shouldn't be terribly crucial welds, as they are held to the knuckle by the unit bearing throughbolts to the knuckle.
The dual-sheer are MUCH more crucial, as they have no reinforcement whatsoever other than themselves- they are the reinforcement.. and if they fail you're going to have an entirely too-interesting and exciting day.
By no means mean any criticism- I'm simply trying to add some tricks to my limited bag of tricks.
Also, more concerned with the dual-sheer bracket welding. The spacers shouldn't be terribly crucial welds, as they are held to the knuckle by the unit bearing throughbolts to the knuckle.
The dual-sheer are MUCH more crucial, as they have no reinforcement whatsoever other than themselves- they are the reinforcement.. and if they fail you're going to have an entirely too-interesting and exciting day.
By no means mean any criticism- I'm simply trying to add some tricks to my limited bag of tricks.
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SByota
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Ventura, CA
Yes, I used a non contact IR temp gun.
As far as the double shear:
There are plenty of people running the WJ knuckle swap with rod ends in single shear. Even the Petty Cash KOH racer runs WJ knuckles with single shear rod ends. That car gets used harder than my Jeep ever will. As far as I know, they have never broken a knuckle at the steering. Even when the knuckle was broken in half with an impact with another car, the steering survived.
The adding of the double shear will only strengthen what's already there. The addition of the plating will greatly reduce the stress on the knuckle by not allowing the bolt to flex at all. In my view, this will prevent the big 3/4" bolt from turning the hole in the knuckle into an oval. I have no doubt that if I break the knuckle, something very dramatic happened and lots more will be broken too.
I enjoy this type of idea sharing and feedback on my work. One can never stop learning and having an open mind leads to learning.
As far as the double shear:
There are plenty of people running the WJ knuckle swap with rod ends in single shear. Even the Petty Cash KOH racer runs WJ knuckles with single shear rod ends. That car gets used harder than my Jeep ever will. As far as I know, they have never broken a knuckle at the steering. Even when the knuckle was broken in half with an impact with another car, the steering survived.
The adding of the double shear will only strengthen what's already there. The addition of the plating will greatly reduce the stress on the knuckle by not allowing the bolt to flex at all. In my view, this will prevent the big 3/4" bolt from turning the hole in the knuckle into an oval. I have no doubt that if I break the knuckle, something very dramatic happened and lots more will be broken too.
I enjoy this type of idea sharing and feedback on my work. One can never stop learning and having an open mind leads to learning.
burntkat
NAXJA Member #1145
- Location
- Charleston, SC
Completely agree with your thoughts on the matter.
I am curious why you didn't go with TREs? Hiems simply don't last as long as TREs from what I've heard. I haven't run them, myself.
I am curious why you didn't go with TREs? Hiems simply don't last as long as TREs from what I've heard. I haven't run them, myself.
SByota
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Ventura, CA
I chose rod ends for a few reasons. I don't have the correct reamer for the TREs. This a go fast kind of toy and I wanted strength over longevity. This Jeep will see lots of desert racing as a chase/support/spectator vehicle. Should I break a steering joint, it will be way easier to find a rod end than a specific TRE.
burntkat
NAXJA Member #1145
- Location
- Charleston, SC
Ah, built to purpose. I like it! It's also a lot easaier to carry one or two spares than 6.
SByota
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Ventura, CA
Making more progress on the front end. WJ knuckles all finished, lower links, tie rod, and drag link and cut to length and tacked up. I used PVC pipe to determine the angle of the upper links. Then I cut my tubing on the bandsaw, and used my homemade fixture table to hold it in place.
Next garage session I will tack together the upper arms and make the panhard bar and cycle it. Then I'm sure I will have to change something. There is so much going on with this "5 link" suspension.
As always, everyones input/criticism is welcomed.
Next garage session I will tack together the upper arms and make the panhard bar and cycle it. Then I'm sure I will have to change something. There is so much going on with this "5 link" suspension.
As always, everyones input/criticism is welcomed.
SByota
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Ventura, CA
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SByota
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Ventura, CA
burntkat
NAXJA Member #1145
- Location
- Charleston, SC
I'm liking the mini layout table. Where did you get the idea?
SByota
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Ventura, CA
I really wanted one of the tab and slot tables, but the top is pretty thin and the fully perforated surface makes for a pretty lousy general work bench. My garage is a do all kind of place and I have a pretty big/study work table with a stainless top and big cast iron legs.
I built the fixture table as a compromise. It's big enough to clamp 99% of what I build but small enough that I can stash it away. It's all 3/8" cold rolled steel TIG welded together, so its stout. I love it, makes getting parts just in the right position before welding and actually holding them there.
SByota
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Ventura, CA
Mocking up the WJ brakes and new unit bearings. This is at full bump with a 35" tall tire.
SByota
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Ventura, CA
Getting the front end one step closer. Setting up the lower spring mounts, bumpstops and track bar/track bar mounts. It's getting there slowly.
ftwelder
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Rockinham, Vermont
Great fab and layout work!
SByota
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Ventura, CA
burntkat
NAXJA Member #1145
- Location
- Charleston, SC
Coming along great- and you win at Dadding.
Are those the Ruffstuff framerail reinforcements? I'm looking at installing them on my son's 97, even though it won't see any hardcore wheeling anytime soon. It's strictly providing a surface to build off of, and to prevent damage to the unibody from twisting. I'll also be curing the body rot issue by cutting out the rockers and welding in some 2X6 tubing, which will be tied into the framerail boxes as well.
Are those the Ruffstuff framerail reinforcements? I'm looking at installing them on my son's 97, even though it won't see any hardcore wheeling anytime soon. It's strictly providing a surface to build off of, and to prevent damage to the unibody from twisting. I'll also be curing the body rot issue by cutting out the rockers and welding in some 2X6 tubing, which will be tied into the framerail boxes as well.
SByota
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Ventura, CA
Yes, I used the Ruff Stuff reinforcement plates/panels. Great product and fits the frame great. If you do the front and main frame together, you will have to do fitting/cutting to make them work together.
Welding on the dirty nasty galvanized XJ frame rail is terrible. I cleaned to bare metal and sanded to a smooth finish. I still got porosity in some of the beads. I'll grind them out and redo, but I'm looking forward to never welding on galvanized metal again.
Your plan sounds great. The 2x6 is a perfect fit. I considered doing a replacement rocker like that, but mine won't see a ton of rocks.
