New Aussie Locker installed in a Chrysler 8.25

so who has actually driven on snow pack or icy roads? I've been looking forward to buying a aussie for about a year. when i went down to my local jeep store to buy one they told me I would be unhappy and end up in a ditch? then I just read a article in JP mag and they said about the same thing. so I'm confused as hell now!!!!( this was for instillation on a dd)

Those people are full of crap and can't drive. I DD on a powertraxx and it is fine, I DD my buddies jeep with a Aussie in a 8.8 and there was no difference, I another jeep that had a Detroit in the 8.8 to a trail run and it was fine.

Buy the locker, put it in, and continue to drive just like you did before.;)

-Alex
 
Those people are full of crap and can't drive. I DD on a powertraxx and it is fine, I DD my buddies jeep with a Aussie in a 8.8 and there was no difference, I another jeep that had a Detroit in the 8.8 to a trail run and it was fine.

Buy the locker, put it in, and continue to drive just like you did before.;)

-Alex

X5 million

I spent a few years locked front only in my first couple jeeps because of idiots who said those sort of things. It scared me away from doing the rear. I have found that most people who say not to do the rear because of drivability have not actually tried it and are just regurgitating misinformation that they have heard.

My ex's DD was locked front and rear and she loved it.

Just do it and ignore the nay-sayers so that you don't waste a couple years of wheeling without it like I did.
 
Those people are full of crap and can't drive. I DD on a powertraxx and it is fine, I DD my buddies jeep with a Aussie in a 8.8 and there was no difference, I another jeep that had a Detroit in the 8.8 to a trail run and it was fine.

Buy the locker, put it in, and continue to drive just like you did before.;)

-Alex

They are not completely full of it... just mostly. I don't agree that you drive a locker like you did before unless you never jump on the gas. I have been driving a detroit for a while and if I jump on it in a tight turn it can push your front tires straight ahead and force you to back off so the teeth can disengage. If you do not back off fast enough you may hit a solid object in a direction you were not aiming for! :eeks1: This is basically aggravated by extremely slick surfaces. If you tend to power into turns... never never never do it with a rear automatic locker on ice or you may end up in a ditch. There really is not any other situation where they make any difference. I drive my front wheel drive different than my rear wheel drive and both different than my Jeep. Just be aware of what your driving and don't worry about it.
 
Another bump for another question: you said the pin was held in by a bolt, but on the front its held in by a roll pin of sorts that you have to knock out with a punch.

Is it really a bolt that you can easily access?
 
?

The rear bolt on the carrier comes right out and the pin slides out.

The front D30 you have to remove the carrier, and remove the ring gear to get that roll pin out.

I did my 8.25 29 Spline and D30 on Easter. Got both done inside of 5 hours.

LOVE IT!
 
On the D30 we didn't have to remove the ring gear, we ground a tooth to get the pin out, and the roll pin holding it in the carrier just knocked out with a punch...my question is relating to the fact that its possibly a bolt holding the pin in place on the 8.25, and not a rollpin which would be impossible to access without removing the carrier.
 
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Another bump for another question: you said the pin was held in by a bolt, but on the front its held in by a roll pin of sorts that you have to knock out with a punch.

Is it really a bolt that you can easily access?

no, we just enjoy misleading people.

yes, the pin in the carrier on an 8.25 is retained by a small bolt. it takes an 8mm or 5/16" wrench. i have been inside my rear diff more times than i care to admit- regear, new diff cover, disk brakes, new wheel studs...)
 
no, we just enjoy misleading people.

yes, the pin in the carrier on an 8.25 is retained by a small bolt. it takes an 8mm or 5/16" wrench. i have been inside my rear diff more times than i care to admit- regear, new diff cover, disk brakes, new wheel studs...)

Thats freaking awesome...I just didn't want to tear into my 98 for this exact same install and find out there was a typo in the write-up...that roll pin is a SERIOUS biznatch to remove on the D30, not to mention having to yank the carrier etc. Cant wait to do this relatively easy install (did my D30 2 weeks ago :gee:)
 
My 8.25 aussie gets here at the end of the week, I'll make sure to check in with my thoughts once I get her installed..thanks for the write up!
 
I installed mine last weekend and must say although it is louder when turning tight than my old Powertrax, it is IMO far more streetable. Doesn't clunk and "kick" like the No-slip did. Very impressed soo far.
 
My front Aussie survived splitting the carrier in half. It ended up with some chipped teeth but it still works after replacing the carrier. Mucho Kudos to Aussielocker for producing a quality product. I find the Aussie to be perfect for the front or rear diff. You only need to be aware of the fact that you are locked when driving on snow or ice and drive accordingly and you are fine.
 
I installed mine last weekend and must say although it is louder when turning tight than my old Powertrax, it is IMO far more streetable. Doesn't clunk and "kick" like the No-slip did. Very impressed soo far.

I would have to say something was broken or wearing out in your no-slip. I have also driven both and would say the No-Slip is far better in terms of street driving. Still like the Aussie locker but it is very rough on road compared to the No-Slip
 
I'm sorry, i don't understand...There are actually people out there who don't like getting sideways in the snow? Oh yea my wife doesn't appreciate it too much when i do it!
 
I would have to say something was broken or wearing out in your no-slip. I have also driven both and would say the No-Slip is far better in terms of street driving. Still like the Aussie locker but it is very rough on road compared to the No-Slip
My Powertrax was in great shape. Just thought every now and then it would kick when it wasn't supposed to. I did have 30's on the last jeep w/the No-slip and have 33's w/the Aussie. I'm sure the 33's take up quite a bit of the gripes the Aussie would normally throw out, but besides the clicking I hardly know it's back there.
 
Question on the install: C clips...im trying to find a picture of where they are and how to remove them (I'm sure it will become evident when I get it apart)...but correct me if im wrong but they are the only thing holding the axles in place once you get the cross pin out? Then just pop the locker in, replace everything and away you go?
 
Question on the install: C clips...im trying to find a picture of where they are and how to remove them (I'm sure it will become evident when I get it apart)...but correct me if im wrong but they are the only thing holding the axles in place once you get the cross pin out? Then just pop the locker in, replace everything and away you go?

You are correct. It looks just like a metal shaped C. Once you pull the cross pin out you can pull the spiders out. Brake clean the crap out of the carrier. Turn the C clip so it looks like a U and push the wheel/axle in towards the center of the jeep. It'll fall right out. I've heard of some guys having issues and having to dremel them out but I've never experienced anything remotely close to that w/C clip axles. Some times you have to jog the axle back and forth but it'll come out.
 
i can just align the c-clip to the slot and point the open end up of my c-clips up with a little pick or something (with my no-slip) and jiggling the shaft rotationally. makes them fall right out. no brake cleaner or anything. and no horror stories either.
 
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