Need advice

[Thor]

Need advice... what would you pay or ask for a jeep equiped with this.

Engine:

- 350 Chevrolet
- 4 Bolt main block
- Bored .030 over stock
- Crank Shaft turned .010
- Stock Heads (valve job done)
- New valve springs
- New GM heavy wall pushrods
- 1.5 ratio GM self-align rocker arms
- Clevite bearings
- Fel-pro gaskets
- Crane energizer camshaft .480 lift .280 duration
- New GM double roller timing gear set
- New GM harmonic balancer
- New GM flywheel
- Advance adapters block hugger headers (chrome finish)
- Edelbrock dual plane aluminum intake
- Holley truck avenger 670cfm carb
- K&N 5inch Filter
- MSD off-road ignition box
- MSD blaster 3 ignition coil
- MSD pro-billet distributer
- MSD 8mm plug wires
- Weiand high flow water pump
- 150amp power master alternator
- Yellow top Optima battery
- Custom aluminum radiator with spal electric fan (www.alumrad.com)
- Holley red electric fuel pump
- Custom aluminum race fuel cell
- All hoses and fittings are braided stainless steel and have red and blue AN fittings

Transmission:

- Custom built by Brian McDonald (local speed shop)
- Turbo Hydromatic 400
- Hughes performance race kit (www.hughesperformance.com)
- Kolene clutches
- Kevlar bands
- New seals
- New brass bushings
- Reworked valve Body (shift kit installed)
- Extra deep finned aluminum pan
- 2,000 rpm stall converter (new)
- Transmission capable of handling over 1,000hp
- B&M Transmission cooler with electric fan assist.
- All hoses and fittings are braided stainless steel with red and blue AN fittings

Transfer Case:

- Atlas II 5.0
- 32 spline front and rear output shafts
- Drive flanges by High Angle Driveline
- All aluminum gear drive
- 5.0 gear reduction
- Twin stick shifter
- Braided stainless steel breather hose with AN fitting and K&N filter
- Torco synthetic fluid

Drive Shafts:

- Built by Jeese at High Angle Driveline (www.highangledrive.com)

Front Shaft
- Long travel slip yoke with boot
- 1410 U joint at diff
- 1 ton rated Toyota yoke at transfer case
- Heavy wall tubing
- Built for the rocks

Rear Shaft
- 1350 C.V. joint at tranfer case
- 1410 U joint at diff
- Heavy wall tubing

Front Differential:

- GM style Dana 60 (unit was pirated from an 86 GM military truck)
- 35 spline axles
- 1410 yoke
- Milemarker lockout hubs
- ARB airlocker with ARB compressor
- 4.56 axle ratio
- Diff cover by Bluetorch Fab (www.bluetorchfab.com)
- Diff vent hose braided stainless steel with AN fittings and K&N filter
- New brake pads
-New bearings and seals

Rear Axle:

- GM 14 bolt full floater
- Detroit locker
- 4.56 axle ratio
- 1410 yoke
- Diff cover by Bluetorch Fab
- New shoes and wheel cylinders
- New bearings and seals
- Vent hose is braided stainless steel with AN fittings and K&N filter

Gauges:

Auto Meter
- phantom (white face)
- 5 inch monster tach with shift light
- speedometer
- water temp
- oil pressure
- trans temp
- volts
- fuel
- air pressure (for front air locker)

Misc:

Wiring
- Its mostly stock but all of the EFI hookups were removed. I did use a new 7 space painless wiring fuse block. The wiring for all of the lights, guages, winch, fuel pump, and fans were all solder joints with heat shrink and then put in wire loom.

Tires and Wheels
- 5) Interco Super Swamper TSL 38.5 x 16 x 16.5
- 5) Trail Ready Beadlocks 12 x 16.5 black wheel and yellow lock rings

Lift Kit
- Pro Comp Explorer 4inch
- Pro Comp ES3000 Shocks
- Skyjacker Nitro Kicker Shocks

Brake Lines
- Braided stainless steel (superlift)
- Front 29 inches long
- Rear 18 inches long

Steering System
- AGR Rock Ram
- Hydralic Assist
- AGR Super Pump

Interior
- Mastercraft full race seats
- 5 point harness
- Custom finish on stainless dash panel
- B&M mega shifter
- Grant steering wheel
- Lockable and padded center console
- Full roll cage (6 point) by Poison Spyder (www.spydercustoms.com)

Winch
- Mile Marker 12,000lb Electric

Spray-on Bedliner on interior floor and underneath the wheel wells and frame. I do drive this on the street. No rust on frame or body. 1200 miiles.

 

[RichP]

I wouldn't, got too much stuff on it, three quarters of the fun is building it. If I was selling it I'd try to get out as much as I put into it as possible. You neglect to mention, CJ, YJ, TJ, XJ, ZJ, WJ, KJ.
Depending on where you register it there could also be issues with getting it inspected and thru such bumps like emissions and safety..

 

[Thor]

Its a YJ if that helps. Thanks for your input.

 

[mdl]

WTF is with all that chevy/gm shit? .. Just like rich said, half the fun is building it. Find a nice stalker and go nuts.

 

[CanMan]

WTF is with all that chevy/gm shit? .. Just like rich said, half the fun is building it. Find a nice stalker and go nuts.

A nice one that follows you without you knowing. One that leaves when asked. Then go nut on them.

Id pay .02 for it.

 

[woody]

General rule is that used parts (and even if they are 'brand new'-unused, expect to take a loss) sell for approx 50% of new, maybe a bit more if they are really desirable or expensive.

That rig is probably worth more parted out... the whole rig, maybe $6000?