Need a new Cam. Which one should I go with? Pics of damage

[XJRunner]

right as I was about to have enough money to cage this thing my lifter grenades. Can anyone pick out the bad lifters? I need a new cam now. I'm thinking about going to comp cams. I also found out that my rebuilt "030" engine is actually "060". pics!

so my question is should I just get a stock cam or should I go to comp or crower?

 

[mxracer624]

check out CompCams xtreme 4x4 68-231-4 206/214 degree camshaft.. $139.00 from summit..

 

[XJRunner]

went with this
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-CL68-232-4/Application/?prefilter=1

 

[1990JEEPXJ]

that sucks man. did you rebuild the motor using the old lifters?

 

[XJRunner]

i bought the engine off my friends dad for $250. It's .060 over and came with a borla header and only had 30k on it

 

[joe_peters]

You can weld up those lifters!

Just kidding. The dealer has some great Mopar break-in lube you should get and use.

 

[XJRunner]

my cam kit comes with assembly lube and if not my dad has it. he just built a 505hp 383 for his flat fender

 

[joe_peters]

This stuff is a bit more than "assembly lube" and is intended to keep the flat tappet lifters and cam happy until the initial wear-in period is complete.

Do as you will, and good luck.

 

[american_zero]

Don't forget to run in the cam on first start up.

 

[old_man]

Are you thinking of just replacing the cam without dissassembly of the motor and checking all the bearings, etc? Where do you think that metal went?

 

[XJRunner]

not taking the engine apart any further. I'm trusting my dad who was a crew chief for a pro stock team and a stock car team and also has built multiple super charged and stroked engines on what to do

 

[Mike1331]

Are you thinking of just replacing the cam without dissassembly of the motor and checking all the bearings, etc? Where do you think that metal went?

good point...

definately takes more effort to manage our old school flat tappet cams these days w/ diferent oil standards. This is how i do

 

[Talyn]

Neither of those have a good level of ZDDP.

 

[XJRunner]

what do you guys think about castrol GTX 10w 40? I had normal Mobile 1 10 30 in it when the cam failed and after some reading I believe the oil is one of the main reasons for the failure

 

[Mike1331]

Neither of those have a good level of ZDDP.

crap, i assumed it did w/ the "zddp additive" on the front of the stp bottle. And the cj-4 on the delo. back to searching, guess its getting harder than i thought.

 

[Mike1331]

what do you guys think about castrol GTX 10w 40? I had normal Mobile 1 10 30 in it when the cam failed and after some reading I believe the oil is one of the main reasons for the failure

yes mobil 1 10 30 is for use in newer roller cam engines. I don't know anything about castrol. If i were breaking in new cam and lifters i'd prob go all out w/ some royal purpal/lucas oil/or amsoil. If you go on the cheap anything w/out the "SM" markings w/in the round seal should be fine as well.

Read

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/cms/

 

[Talyn]

crap, i assumed it did w/ the "zddp additive" on the front of the stp bottle. And the cj-4 on the delo. back to searching, guess its getting harder than i thought.

GM EOS is still a good stand by for the ZDDP. Or ZDDP plus. Yes, it is getting harder to find high ZDDP oil. Even the CJ-4 diesel oils have reduced ZDDP.

For cam break in an easy locally obtainable oil that isn't too expensive is Valvoline Racing oil, NSL. This is not the VR1, but the black bottle racing oil. Comes in a few different weights, but watch out as there is also a synthetic. 10w30 Dino oil is VV850. My Napa can get it. I would still throw some extra ZDDP in it. Other alternatives are Joe Gibbs and Brad Penn break in oils.

I wouldn't use Synthetic for the break in. Maybe 5000 miles after break in, but not for break in.

 

[XJRunner]

part number for the valvoline? I work at car quest auto parts so I get discounts on whatever and dont want to ruin my cam

 

[XJRunner]

 

[Talyn]

Those springs won't work.