My Ultimate HP 60 Build

[Jump This]

How would you add a fifth bolt using your Bridgeport?
I want to see your key way work though (I do have a friend with a nice mill.)

 

[Begster]

How would you add a fifth bolt using your Bridgeport?
I want to see your key way work though (I do have a friend with a nice mill.)

By using it as a precise and glorified drill press.

 

[asp]

5th bolt would be added by welding in some 3/4" or so plate to the front of the knuckle in the vertical plane, milling the top surface flat, drilling, and tapping. the keyway could be added to the same tab. i've seen pictures of it done this way, but i don't have any on hand. let me look online real quick.

edit: after looking around i can't find the pic i was thinking of.

 

[Israel]

How would you add a fifth bolt using your Bridgeport?

Add material, mill it flat, drill 5th bolt hole? Maybe not in that order?

Edit: I'm slow.

 

[bigalpha]

What's the purpose of the sand bath?

 

[kastein]

lets the whole housing cool as slowly as possible, and as evenly as possible... a lot of people use big chunks of fiberglass house insulation

 

[bigalpha]

lets the whole housing cool as slowly as possible, and as evenly as possible... a lot of people use big chunks of fiberglass house insulation

Is this a "curing" process?

 

[lobsterdmb]

Is this a "curing" process?

You have to preheat the cast center section to weld to it. Afterwards, you want to slow its cooling down so the welds don't become brittle.

 

[bigalpha]

Understood. Thanks for the info.

 

[asp]

not just brittle, everything will warp from the residual stresses too. just my $.02.

 

[Mark817XJ]

Truss looks really good

 

[foxwar71]

How would you add a fifth bolt using your Bridgeport?
I want to see your key way work though (I do have a friend with a nice mill.)

5th bolt would be added by welding in some 3/4" or so plate to the front of the knuckle in the vertical plane, milling the top surface flat, drilling, and tapping. the keyway could be added to the same tab. i've seen pictures of it done this way, but i don't have any on hand. let me look online real quick.

Anthony nailed it on the head. I just so happen to have a chuck of 3/4" plate hanging around (HINT HINT WINK WINK think shave job) that will be added. the plan is to add more materail infront of the 4 studs. the more i think about it, the more im leaning towards a keyway instead of just a 5th bolt. I havent decided exactly sure how much ill go, but i have a good idea and it shouldnt be too much more work.


My figuring is that a properly built keyway setup will do a better job then adding a 5th bolt. the plan is for a sufficient size and depth keyway with a true interference fit (with the slot being 1-3 thou smaller than the key) and the joint require slight force or heating for assembly.


Example:

What's the purpose of the sand bath?

not just brittle, everything will warp from the residual stresses too. just my $.02.

Not just brittle or warping but also to keep the welds from just cracking right off the center section. The dissimilar metals expend and contract at different rates, so as the weld/truss cool at their own rate the center section will cool at a different rate causing the weld to crack/break/seperate right off.

 

[asp]

FWIW, you'll never get 3 thou back by heating/cooling. if you really wanted it press fit, aim for 2 thou, the polish it to 1 thou press fit.

 

[CROSBIKE]

So much awesomeness in this thread. Ross the 60 has definitely come a long way since i saw it last.

 

[Hackmeister]

ross you may have to get a proper vice for the bridgeport, indicators and a bunch of other tooling to be able to get press fit tolerances, btw

 

[Stallacrew]

At work when we fit our carbide dies in their cold rolled cases we have .003'' or so interference fit. We heat the case to 500 deg F (somewhere around there) and put the carbide in the freezer. When they reach temp, we just drop it in.

When they cool you CANNOT remove them short of cutting off the steel case.

I might do a 1.5-2 thous fit. 3 is pushing it. Let us know how it works out, but I agree, keyways are the way to go.

 

[Ghost]

Are you planning on having something to keep the coils from moving on that plate? I have the ballistic perches and am having problems with the coils slipping between the two flat plates. I recently added some round "ribs" to keep the coil from sliding around in extreme flex.

I have read mixed info on this. Isn't the center forged and not cast steel on the D60's? Some say its needed some say it isn't. IIRC I have seen on here where one guy welded his UCA link straight to the pumpkin with no heat either way. I think it was one of the guys from the midwest. Maybe someone will remember who it was and where the thread is.

 

[foxwar71]

Are you planning on having something to keep the coils from moving on that plate? I have the ballistic perches and am having problems with the coils slipping between the two flat plates. I recently added some round "ribs" to keep the coil from sliding around in extreme flex.

Ill be building some buckets similar to Clayton's setup. Itll be a fun attempt with the bridgeport and a rotary table.

http://claytonoffroad.com/product_info.php?cPath=18_71&products_id=89


Im personally not a fan of using a flat base for a coil not meant for it. Yes it has been done and yes it has proven itself to work just fine, theres just better ways to do it in my mind. ive seen/heard about multiple people that have problems like you or issues with coils bowing out and such.

I have read mixed info on this. Isn't the center forged and not cast steel on the D60's? Some say its needed some say it isn't. IIRC I have seen on here where one guy welded his UCA link straight to the pumpkin with no heat either way. I think it was one of the guys from the midwest. Maybe someone will remember who it was and where the thread is.

60 center sections are nodular iron. Theres all sorts of ways to weld to different type of cast metals. I did some test welding before hand on the 60 with the TIG and not pre/post and it came out jsut fine. ive had both good luck and bad luck using a MIG on casts. The sand bath is one of those things that cant hurt, its not gunna cause more damage to anything. Like inner C's are forged mild steel and no problem to weld to with say a MIG without special filler or setup. Something like an outer knuckle is gunna be cast steel and it can easily be MIG'ed with pre/psot heat.




Theres different ways to unwrap a present. Im sure more people could chime in with different ways theyve done it. Like i know vetteboy MIG'ed his 60 with pre/post heat and some peening. Mr Overkill has some mucho welding insight too, hopefully he'll stop in here with his $0.02

 

[foxwar71]

Time to be the man and step up my game! i was talking with Dundy the other day and we both agreed i should just STFU and buy some big boy tires. So i pulled the trigger and bought some sweet new meats for black jeeps build to be based on now. party1: Unfortunately, with this new decision im gunna have be commited to chromo shafts, at least up front to begin with. Im gunna order Ten Factory shafts 35 spline inners & outers for the 60. ill see how the stock 14b shafts hold up, but time may call for some double splined 300M stuff :greensmok


without further adue, i present to you my new (5) 40x13.50x17 maxxis creepies with rims

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?p=11185473#post11185473

 

[RCman]

Nice!
At least I no longer have to talk you out of running 35s on those axles now.