My Ultimate HP 60 Build

is it just me or does a a broken detroit just look like a full carrier sized version of a lunchbox locker?
 
It's really the same idea; the full case just takes advantage of available space in the diff.

All things considered, I'd rather be running a D60 lockrite. I wanted to run a D60 lockrite, and the place I ordered it from sent me the wrong one twice, before finally realizing they didn't have the right one in stock and they cut me a great deal on the Detroit instead. Which turned into much less of a great deal when I had to get a new side gear, clutch/HOR assembly, and spring retainer. I was lucky enough to find a great parts source and ended up fixing it for less than the cost of a new one. :gag:

If you look at the pic of my busted junk, each "side" is really two pieces. There's the inner part that engages the axle splines, and the outer clutch/hold-out-ring that engages the teeth on the cross. This is done so that the same clutch gear can be used with different spline counts - the only difference between a 30- and 35-spline D60 detroit is that inner piece.

From my experience, the problem comes from the clutch gear not having enough material to absorb the shock load from a snapped badass shaft. With a Lockrite the side gear is entirely one piece, and to date I've heard of very few but actually not seen any break. The D60 case is certainly not a weak point and you can find dozens of stories of people beating on D60 lockrites all day long without issue.
 
vetteboy said:
It's really the same idea; the full case just takes advantage of available space in the diff.

All things considered, I'd rather be running a D60 lockrite. I wanted to run a D60 lockrite, and the place I ordered it from sent me the wrong one twice, before finally realizing they didn't have the right one in stock and they cut me a great deal on the Detroit instead. Which turned into much less of a great deal when I had to get a new side gear, clutch/HOR assembly, and spring retainer. I was lucky enough to find a great parts source and ended up fixing it for less than the cost of a new one. :gag:

If you look at the pic of my busted junk, each "side" is really two pieces. There's the inner part that engages the axle splines, and the outer clutch/hold-out-ring that engages the teeth on the cross. This is done so that the same clutch gear can be used with different spline counts - the only difference between a 30- and 35-spline D60 detroit is that inner piece.

From my experience, the problem comes from the clutch gear not having enough material to absorb the shock load from a snapped badass shaft. With a Lockrite the side gear is entirely one piece, and to date I've heard of very few but actually not seen any break. The D60 case is certainly not a weak point and you can find dozens of stories of people beating on D60 lockrites all day long without issue.
Click to expand...

Plus if you bust a lockrite you don't have to re-setup your gears.
 
foxwar71 said:
vetteboy, yours kept popping up in all the different threads about busted detroits.
Click to expand...

Man, I've broken just about everything on my front 60 except for the R&P. Stock inner, stock 30-spline stub, 4340 30-spline stub, 30-spline drive flange, 35-spline drive flange, 4340 35-spline stub (x2), Spicer 806 joints (x2), detroit.

All with 1310 driveshaft joints and a stock D300 front output, go figure. FWIW, I can't blame the 35-spline stubs at all - the first one was still in one piece (albeit twisted) when the Detroit nuked, and the second one was collateral damage from the U-joint letting go. Both were warrantied by Yukon.
 
Hmm, I see youre points on the side gears of the detroit vs. lockrite. Thats enough logic to make me decide on a lockrite for good now, the one in my d30 is at least 4 or 5 years old and seen a couple of broken shafts on each side. I guess im not too worried about the stock carrier in a 60, it SHOULD be strong enough on its own. I was thinking of having the R&P heated and cyro'd, so Id have the carrier and maybe even the lockrite done too. Benefits are they will hold up even better to sudden shock loads.
 
WaXJ_Skier said:
Plus if you bust a lockrite you don't have to re-setup your gears.
Click to expand...

I fixed the busted parts inside my Detroit case so I didn't have to re-set the gears. The axle had 4.10's stock and I changed it to 4.56, so I needed to do a new setup initially anyway regardless of the locker choice.
 
Heh. Tonight's the first opportunity I've had to sit down and post some stuff...I spent all weekend workin on the thing, and pretty much all the time after my real job too. I'll bring it over here soon. :)
 
OK, you got me on that one. Except that, you see people who have broken D60 Detroits and plenty of people who have not broken them even with multiple broken axle shafts. So, unlike the Detroits in smaller axle housings you aren't virtually guaranteed to break a Detroit in a D60 if you break a shaft or hub. Using vetteboy as an example, he broke quite a few shafts before the Detroit finally let go. Still, something to think about. Good reason to have good quality shafts, joints and drive flanges.

Spools are ultimately reliable, I just hate them. I'd live with one in the front if I have to, but I have to have my selectable in the rear. The other thing about a spool in front for me is the go fast stuff where I'm always in 4wd. While the spool works, it adds to the shock load on the parts with the tires regularly coming off the ground, so having some differentiation in an auto locker would reduce the stress over time.
 
if it was gonna see any street or go fast time i wouldnt spool it, but its strictly a crawler so im gonna live with it. im using 35 spl outers, probly slugs, hydri steer, BTF truss and a few other goodies so if i can save some coin on a locker im going to. maybe in the future ill get a selectable but time will tell
 
Then why did you recommend a spool to the OP when he's going to drive his on the street??

:dunno:
 
i didnt see that he was going to be street driving it, but i went back and re read
 
To update this, ive gotten a little bit of work done on it lately. its cold as hell here and not having heat kinda sucks!!! i did manage to finally get the truss how i want it to sit on the axle. i leaned it back some when the pinion is rotated up, the truss is perpendicular to the ground. some numbers i came up with is 6.5* of pinion angle and 2.5* of caster with the truss at 0*. next up is cutting out the spots for the coil buckets, then ill burn it all home.



in other news, i finally got my new tool installed in my little shop, my first bridgeport:D:D:D axle shaving here i come!!!

dy29f6.jpg
 
2.5* doesn't seem like an awful lot of caster to me...

I'd probably shoot for twice that amount if you're going to be driving it on the street at all.

I forget, are you running lockouts or going to flanges?
 
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