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Modified wheelbase/suspension guys....Front bumpstops, how to go about it?


NAXJA Forum User
Nashville, TN
What are you guys with tweaked wheelbases and/or modified suspensions using for bumpstops? I'm going through shocks too often using them as bumpstops so I need to get a real solution figured out. I tore my front end down this weekend and while I was at it I cycled the suspension trying to figure out the best approach. I don't think the standard "pucks" mounted inside the coil will work very well for my application. When fully stuffed the bumpstops won't hit each other squarely, they would barely contact each other at all. I could cut/heat/bend/weld the bumpstop tower but that would still not really help me much. The only other option I can see is to mount a bumpstop to the long arms where they could contact the unibody where the original LCA's were mounted. Does this sound like a good idea or is there another option I'm missing?
Georgia Mike, that's the attitude I always had. I'm now tired of buying shocks.

pair8hd, these are the best I could find. They're kind of old though and don't really show much.




eric91xj, I'm trying to limit uptravel, not down travel. I already have straps for that.

XJCHUCK72, I don't think bending the arm will be a problem. I'm not jumping this thing, just crawling.
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Hey! Cool steering setup!

My only concern with using a bump stop at the frame rail would be buckling the sheet metal under extreme compression. Although,you did say you weren't going to be airing it out or anything,I'd still put something like a 3/16" mating plate for the bump stop to hit and I'd think it would be fine.
Lincoln said:
I using these:


They have worked pretty well, but when the 35's go on I might need to do a little more.

For reference I'm using Ford coil mounts on the bottom and I took the factory rubber uppers off and made a plate the is a little larger than the hole and bolted it in place.


How much compression do these things allow before they stop uptravel? I'm having a hard time deciding what length to order. Also, they list the diameter as 3 3/4", I assume you're running XJ coils and they fit fine?
They fit good and buy the longest one's you can find. I believe mine are 10.5".

I am running XJ coils and I don't have a raised mount on the bottom in the center of the coil. After removing the stock rubber upper there is about 5" before it touches. I'm guessing there is about 2" compression past that.

They cut easily and I think I could cut them in the coil with a long saw zall blade. I haven't cut the tops of my fenders and the outter lugs of the SSR's go just inside of the flare before it stops on a ramp. I need to watch closer on the trail because I could probably take another 1" or so off of them. If you could fill the hole in the middle it would take a lot of that extra compression out of them. It's about 1.25" in diameter.

I'll be running something like these on my new rig.

Kinda pricey, but worth the plush landings. ;)

I don't Carpenter is facing your delima. He doesn't think he's Ivan Stewart and then turn around and crawl too. :)

If you would stop wheeling every weekend and making me jealous your next rig could be a reality.

That's the problem, too many good trail rides to go to, and not enough time to wrench.

October, after MOAB. The stroker should be done by then.

That will piss me off if you have your stroker done before I have mine in. Mine is already built, but I want to tear it down and change the pistons and cam.

I like the idea of those air bumpstops. My suspension is tuned to use the whole length of the shocks, which means that I can bottom them out if I hit hard enough. Those bumpstops could work nicely. Of course, first I want some good Sway-a-Way shocks for the front.

Plus, I'd rather wheel than wrench any day. :D
These are still in the experimental stages......I think there'll be ALOT more testing before they're perfected. :D


Jim, what length shocks did you go with, and what valving?

I was thinking that if I went to coilovers I would want to use 14" travel shocks, but it would be real tight with the amount of lift that I have. I've sort of decided that 12" travel, like I have now, would work just fine.

You going to be ready for JV in Nov? :)
I'm trying to get to Moab in October. Damn parts I'm ordering come in wrong and I'm stalled right now putting my steering together. I've got the hi-steer arms but I just got the wrong rod ends for the tubing........ugh.

Mine are 12" 2.5" dia. I should've gone with 14" 2" dia and will swap them out during next year's buildup. Valving, I dont know. I picked these up for a good price used, I'll have to see how they work and get them valved if necessary.

Garage wheeling is really sucking, thank god for AutoCad to waste all this time on.........
Yeah, garage wheeling sucks. I missed runs the last two winters that I really wanted to go on because I was rebuilding the Jeep.

Hope you make Moab, it's going to be a blast. Check out the latest thread about runs on the event forum. :)