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Misfiring, where to buy injectors?

I got my heat shield tape from summit (1 day ups ground delivery is awesome!). I tore everything out of the way and realized my heat shield from the TSB was junked. It was falling apart and splitting open so I had to make some new shields to cover the exposed exhaust pipes below. There are three holes that expose the exhaust so I covered all three up. I used exhaust wrap and then put heat shield tape on both sides and used that to cover the holes. It felt almost like foil and just fell in place and doesn't move. I then used the rest of the tape to cover the injectors and fuel rail.


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Let's see if this helps.....
 
If this doesn't do it for you, then get the efan timer and that should fix it once and for all:

http://www.at-fairfax.com/P1786-ELK-960.htm

I know I posted this earlier, but a little nudge now and then never hurts! :cheers:
 
If this doesn't do it for you, then get the efan timer and that should fix it once and for all:

http://www.at-fairfax.com/P1786-ELK-960.htm

I know I posted this earlier, but a little nudge now and then never hurts! :cheers:

Yeah thanks for posting it again. It's actually next on my list since I'm pretty sure this is heat related. I just have one issue. I'm clueless with electronic stuff like wiring, relays, timers, etc. I'm not sure how to set that up or what to connect it to. Is there a write-up for it?
 
Yeah thanks for posting it again. It's actually next on my list since I'm pretty sure this is heat related. I just have one issue. I'm clueless with electronic stuff like wiring, relays, timers, etc. I'm not sure how to set that up or what to connect it to. Is there a write-up for it?

Should be fairly simple. The timer can be configured for neg/pos trigger, and you should be able to install it in the current efan circuit.
 
Clear your codes and unplug your coolant temp sensor and see if the probs go away. had a very long fight with my 97 and never thot a $17 part could cause so much trouble for so long. worth a try.
 
That heat shield that you mentioned was junk, was that the one that attached to the manifold? If so that wasn't for the heat soak issue, but for a possible issue where dirt would gather there and possibly cause a fire. Also, x2 on the NGK plugs. I ran champions then switched to NGK. The NGKs did actually help.
 
That heat shield that you mentioned was junk, was that the one that attached to the manifold? If so that wasn't for the heat soak issue, but for a possible issue where dirt would gather there and possibly cause a fire. Also, x2 on the NGK plugs. I ran champions then switched to NGK. The NGKs did actually help.

Yeah the shield was attached on top of the manifold, covering all three holes that exposed the exhaust pipes. I figured it was a heat shield because it's the same material as my heat shield tape. It was trashed.

Do you think I should wrap the entire underside of the manifold, right above the exhaust? Wouldn't that keep the air coming in cooler?
 
If you have enough material you could. It would keep the intake manifold cooler, which will keep the incoming air cooler. However, I had tried a brand of thermal tape on the manifold and it didn't stick very well. Eventually it made contact with the exhaust manifold and started to melt/burn. Smelled bad. Maybe sourcing some large hose clamps combined with some form of steel mesh will help keep in contact with the intake manifold. Since you have some left over you may want to wrap your fuel line where it goes near the exhaust manifold.
 
If you have enough material you could. It would keep the intake manifold cooler, which will keep the incoming air cooler. However, I had tried a brand of thermal tape on the manifold and it didn't stick very well. Eventually it made contact with the exhaust manifold and started to melt/burn. Smelled bad. Maybe sourcing some large hose clamps combined with some form of steel mesh will help keep in contact with the intake manifold. Since you have some left over you may want to wrap your fuel line where it goes near the exhaust manifold.

I used all 15 feet of heat shield tape. I'm thinking of buying the big sheets of heat shield and using wire or huge hose clamps to wrap the underside of the manifold. Seems like a very tight fit though....
 
I have a 2001 with 147,000 miles and mine did something similar today. I also had code P0303 and I changed the plugs with platinums and had the code cleared. The check engine light came back on 160 miles later and says the bank 2 converter is bad. Anyway, I drove today for about 30 minutes, let it sit for 30 minutes, and when I started it, it ran really rough for about 30 seconds and then it was fine. It's never done that before, but it sounds like that TSB about the injector sleeves. Could my converter going bad be causing more heat?
 
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I have a 2001 with 147,000 miles and mine did something similar today. I also had code P0303 and I changed the plugs with platinums and had the code cleared. The check engine light came back on 160 miles later and says the bank 2 converter is bad. Anyway, I drove today for about 30 minutes, let it sit for 30 minutes, and when I started it, it ran really rough for about 30 seconds and then it was fine. It's never done that before, but it sounds like that TSB about the injector sleeves. Could my converter going bad be causing more heat?

Welcome to my world.


IT SUCKS!
 
I have a 2001 with 147,000 miles and mine did something similar today. I also had code P0303 and I changed the plugs with platinums and had the code cleared. The check engine light came back on 160 miles later and says the bank 2 converter is bad. Anyway, I drove today for about 30 minutes, let it sit for 30 minutes, and when I started it, it ran really rough for about 30 seconds and then it was fine. It's never done that before, but it sounds like that TSB about the injector sleeves. Could my converter going bad be causing more heat?

Sounds like heat soak!

Chryco got real stupid with the late models, eliminated the fuel rail return line and changed the manifolds and added more CATs so the fuel rail can really cook!

Chryco fix? Wrap the injectors! Friggin idiots.

Do the hood test. Drive the vehicle and get it good and hot. Park, shut off engine, open hood and let sit for 30 minutes. If you get in and start the engine and it is w/o symptoms, it is heat soak.

Best fix for heat soak--do what the INTELLIGENT manufacturers did when they found they had under-hood heat soak issues. Make the efan run for a short time to reduce the temperatures.

Could Chryco have done this? Yes, they were either too IGNORANT or too CHEAP for a proper fix.

Add a timer to the efan: http://www.at-fairfax.com/P1786-ELK-960.htm
 
What about a "blanket" for the manifold? DrDino used something like that on his. Need to find the link again, but that would be a lot easier than wrapping the headers with tape (I tried, but my hands aren't meant to contort like that).
 
What about a "blanket" for the manifold? DrDino used something like that on his. Need to find the link again, but that would be a lot easier than wrapping the headers with tape (I tried, but my hands aren't meant to contort like that).

You mean like one of those heat shields that is above the cat under the floorboards? I can imagine sliding one of those under the manifold and using wire or something to attach it.
 
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