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Mini-stroker torque converter issue (232 crank)

anthrax323

NAXJA Forum User
Location
San Antonio, TX
So after years of sitting on a stand in my garage, I finally got the drivetrain for my 2001 XJ put back together and dropped into the vehicle... only to find the torque converter is dragging on the flex plate when I went to bolt them together.


The build is based off an AMC 232 crank, which bolted up to the flex plate without any issues whatsoever (bolt pattern is the same as the 2001's 242 crank, and based on hole spacing it only bolts up one way).


When installing the torque converter onto the transmission, I did indeed get 3 good clunks. First when engaging the first set of splines, then after twisting and jiggling got a 2nd clunk (engaging the 2nd set of splines), but it still didn't seem like it was fully seated... so I spun and wiggled it a bit more and got the final big clunk/seat when it finally engaged the pump (at least I hope it did). The torque converter sat back far enough I couldn't get fingers between it and the bell housing, and after continuing to spin/jiggle it for another few minutes, I figured it was fully seated.


I then mated the transmission to the engine, and had absolutely no resistance beyond that which is to be expected from the threads themselves. I didn't force the mating with tons of bolt torque at all - they fully seated against one another even before any of the bolts were tightened.


Now, as I try to align the TC with the flex plate, I find the TC is dragging against the flex plate. Not with a ton of pressure, as if I have a friend "bump" the crank with a wrench, I can see they slide against one another a little at a time... but it still didn't seem right, so we stopped for the night. I was also able to see one of the pads on the TC through another hole (not an actual bolt hole) and it appears to be 3/16" to 1/4" away from the flex plate.


This leads me to believe that the TC has the wrong snout on it, or for some stupid reason, the 232 crank center/bore is NOT the same as the 242 crank. I've been digging for answers and pictures, but am coming up empty-handed, and this difference isn't mentioned anywhere in any of the mini-stroker recipes and builds I've found. I'm still looking through my build photos to see whether or not I managed to snag a pic of the crankshaft flange and bore to give more insight.



Anyone done a 232-based build before and care to share some insight? I'm insanely frustrated now, because I'll likely have to pull the damn transmission and pray to whatever god there may be I didn't damage the pump. Thanks in advance.
 
There's only one TC for the "Jeep" AW4, so unless you have something for a Toyota the TC isn't your issue. Also the crankshaft counterbore only apllies to manual transmissions.
 
There's only one TC for the "Jeep" AW4, so unless you have something for a Toyota the TC isn't your issue. Also the crankshaft counterbore only apllies to manual transmissions.
The TC looked identical to the original (made by TC Remanufacturing if I'm not mistaken, likely the TO28 but I need to check the box in a bit).


Regarding the crankshaft counterbore - I thought cranks were transmission-agnostic? If they are transmission-specific, is it possible I got a 232 from a manual transmission vehicle?
 
The cranks are not specific but automatics transmissions don't care either way!
 
Ah, ok. That makes more sense. Now I’m wondering why the thing is contacting the flex plate (almost certainly the snout is), leaving the pads that far away from it (leaning toward 1/4”). Is it possible the thing sagged a bit and is hooking the edge of the crank counterbore? Also, the thing seemed to have a *really* thick coat of paint on it… could that be a factor?

Part of me is tempted to pull the fuel pump relay (which I need to do anyway to prime the oil pump and whatnot for break-in) and blip the starter a few times to see if it’ll correct itself. Worth a shot, or should I just plan on dropping the damn transmission?
 
I'm in the process of building a Mini-Stroker. Mine going to be a Mini-Mini as I'm only boring out to 30 over. I bought a crank for a '78 Gremlin or such. I went by the thread on the Stroker Forum by Dino. I seemed earlier crankshaft would be a problem with AW4 auto trans. I want to say the years are 76-81. I'll be putting mine on a manual trans MJ.

Edit: I looked at Car-Parts,Inc. for a '78 crankshaft. The two part that came up were listed as '74s. So, not sure on the exact year. Tired Rock Auto but no listing.
 
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Pretty sure mine is a late-model crank, with 76-78 sounding most familiar (it’ll take me some digging to find the receipt). Happen to have a link to a thread discussing the AW4 issues?
 
Pretty sure mine is a late-model crank, with 76-78 sounding most familiar (it’ll take me some digging to find the receipt). Happen to have a link to a thread discussing the AW4 issues?

https://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3083

Is it the same thread were you pulled build info? Also, interested in your build info. I went with Hypereutectic pistons. So, I'll be 0.010 above the block. So, a 0.052 head gasket.
 
Shit, it’s been long enough I can’t remember my exact specs. Went .040” over, local machinist decided he couldn’t dish my pistons to 22cc’s and mounted them anyway, so I bit the bullet and came up with a custom cam profile between Comp and Pottinger that deals with something like 10.3:1 static compression ratio… with a 240k mile non-TUPY 0331 head. Really nervous to say the least. I installed a Mopar Performance head gasket, whose thickness I can’t remember, but I do know that Pottinger told me my resulting quench was good.

At this point, though, the goddamn torque converter issue is my blocker. I’m sure I can dig up more detailed specs if I go through old emails and forum threads (again, it’s been sitting a few years and I suck at note taking).
 
Just found the invoice for the crank... Bought it from Clegg back in 2017, with a description of "72-79 AMC/JEEP 232/3.8L I6 Crankshaft Kit". Based on this... it *should* have the same counterbore as a 242 crank right?


Sorry, out of town right now and just trying to think of what I could have f@#$ed up. I've dug through all my engine build photos and can't find a single pic of the crankshaft, or its counterbore (all shots are blocked by the engine stand).
 
Not sure on the 'C' ring. I'll try and check the 232 and 4.0L cranks I have at home. I think there is a flange at the trans end. ???? I'll see if I can do a mockup on Sunday. I should have a loose converter and flexplate.
 
https://theamcforum.com/forum/4-2-crankshaft_topic96191.html

I looked at my 232 and a 4.0L crankshaft at home. I couldn't see any difference. From that link and others, seems there was a transmission change from BW to Chrysler's. Also, to match the V-8s. From one of the post, it seems one crank is basically, hub centric. The other uses the bolts to center the flywheel/flexplate. My guess is 'C' ring is Centric ring.
 
Awesome, thanks man! Mine definitely has the centering ring… so I must’ve botched the installation. Guess it’s time to drop the friggin transmission and figure out what happened.
 
I did take basic measurements from my 232 Crankshaft and a 4.0L crankshaft. Both ends seemed about the same. I had to eyeball a few. They still seemed close.
 
Yeah… my understanding is that all the 72+ AMC I6 cranks have the same rear flange… just different snout lengths (long on early models, presumably due to V-belts).
 
Now, as I try to align the TC with the flex plate, I find the TC is dragging against the flex plate. Not with a ton of pressure, as if I have a friend "bump" the crank with a wrench, I can see they slide against one another a little at a time... but it still didn't seem right, so we stopped for the night. I was also able to see one of the pads on the TC through another hole (not an actual bolt hole) and it appears to be 3/16" to 1/4" away from the flex plate.

I am not following this... I read that the TC is rubbing against the flex plate. So you haven't put in the bolts holding the TC to the flex plate yet?

Later you say that the TC is 3/16 to 1/4 away from the flex plate?

When you push the TC all the way into the tranny, there should be some space between the flex plate and the TC until you bolt them together.
 
I am not following this... I read that the TC is rubbing against the flex plate. So you haven't put in the bolts holding the TC to the flex plate yet?

Later you say that the TC is 3/16 to 1/4 away from the flex plate?

When you push the TC all the way into the tranny, there should be some space between the flex plate and the TC until you bolt them together.
Correct - the flex plate and TC aren’t bolted to each other yet, but I can see the pads on the TC (4 total, where the bolts thread in) are about 3/16” to 1/4” away from the fleet plate. Leads me to believe the snout isn’t seating into the crankshaft counterbore.
 
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