MIDAS blew up my Jeep ...

[Ecomike]

This is the best advice I've seen in this thread. Get rid of that stupid bottle !!

A working, non leaking bottle, metal bottle in this case, does not cause an overheat problem.

I have three running Renix jeeps now that have the plastic bottles and run nice and cool with no problem, once I found the real problems and fixed them (like exhaust blowing on the block), about 3 years ago.

One just needs to know how to properly fill the radiator to the top (the second issue I discovered), and not half way on the closed renix rig. If you follow 99% of the how to fill posts on Naxja for a Renix closed system, the radiator will be half full of trapped air at the top. Ask me how I know, LOL

 

[Ecomike]

To beat a dead horse, does the Renix system use the Tstat with the check-ball bleeder in it? I've found in my XJs, and even my Subie, that systems originally equipped with the bleeder ball really do like it better! Just my $0.02.

The last one I bought from O'Reily's which was a Murray brand, made in Israel, had the ball!!!! I don't know what the OEM one has.

I never used one that did not have a bleed hole (factory or one I addded).

 

[DrMoab]

Your last paragraph is exactly why I said its good advice. Maybe not to fix his problem but for overall ease of fixing future problems.

 

[DrMoab]

Your last paragraph is exactly why I said its good advice. Maybe not to fix his problem but for overall ease of fixing future problems.

Edit....that was meant for your second to last post.

 

[nick86]

Since we have established that your muffler & tailpipe is not related, I would like a Mod to change the title of this thread, as I am totally offended by the stupidity of the idea of a muffler R&R WOULD CAUSE AN OVERHHEAT. By the way, I work for such chain franchise.

 

[Ecomike]

Read post number 59, I am not sure that what you said has been established, and I am offended at the idea of censoring the title. Last I heard, free speech was a protect right under the US Constitution.

Since we have established that your muffler & tailpipe is not related, I would like a Mod to change the title of this thread, as I am totally offended by the stupidity of the idea of a muffler R&R WOULD CAUSE AN OVERHHEAT. By the way, I work for such chain franchise.

 

[nick86]

Read post number 59, I am not sure that what you said has been established, and I am offended at the idea of censoring the title. Last I heard, free speech was a protect right under the US Constitution.

Read
post #1 , it happened 2 weeks later. That's like saying you did a brake job on my car & now the wipers quit working. Just coincedence.

 

[tjmotter]

Water is a bi-product of combustion and it is normal for any car to drip a little water out the tailpipe. This typically appears when the tailpipe is cold because as it warms up, the water turns to vapor due to the heat build up in the exhaust. btw, this is also one of the reasons why mufflers/tailpipes are so prone to rot.

Other notes; I noticed what appears to be water at the exhaust. I don't recall seeing this before.

 

[MaxxXJ]

I am totally offended by the stupidity of the idea of a muffler R&R WOULD CAUSE AN OVERHHEAT. By the way, I work for such chain franchise.

I sure hope that you don't weld onto anything at said muffler shop And call yourself a welder... If so I'm offended by the stupidity that you think what you do is anything harder than flipping burgers at mcdonalds

 

[scottmcneal]

Always use a SMALL shop.Just ask around or look around.You will find a very nice little shop that does better work for less.These guys(MIDASS) and AAMCO are not worth anybodys time in my books.
Mom & Pops shop is the way to go.

 

[MaxxXJ]

Always use a SMALL shop.Just ask around or look around.You will find a very nice little shop that does better work for less.These guys(MIDASS) and AAMCO are not worth anybodys time in my books.
Mom & Pops shop is the way to go.

If I could "like" your post I would... I'm a mom and pop shop kind of guy when it comes to things I can't do.

 

[FlyNNN]

Read post #1 , it happened 2 weeks later. That's like saying you did a brake job on my car & now the wipers quit working. Just coincedence.

Nick, you need to re-read post #1. The overheat problem occured in the MIDAS shop and I was informed of it when I was given the keys. Not very professional being mentioned in a casual manner and letting me fend for myself.

With the help of members here, which I truly appreciate, this thread is now your typical RENIX overheating troubleshooting thread. The title should remain because thats what happened.

 

[FlyNNN]

Water is a bi-product of combustion and it is normal for any car to drip a little water out the tailpipe. This typically appears when the tailpipe is cold because as it warms up, the water turns to vapor due to the heat build up in the exhaust. btw, this is also one of the reasons why mufflers/tailpipes are so prone to rot.

Thank you for the information. I don't recall noticing the water before.

 

[FlyNNN]

I'm going with a 180 thermostat for the summer and see how it goes. I just tested it out on the stove top and it opened up. I am going to drill a couple of holes in the flange 180 degree's apart and mount with the holes at 12 and 6 o'clock. I have read an earlier post from Ecomike stating not to drill the holes. I'll do a little more research before I do. I will then fill the system according to EcoMike's tip mentioned in post #39.

I was unable to locate any of the green silicate based old style antifreeze during my bike travels the last couple of days so I am going with some Prestone and distilled water (60/40 mix as per BulletMaker, post #39) I got from Wal-Mart. It's a real b*tch carting that stuff around on a bike.

 

[FlyNNN]

...Do me a favor, and check to see if the muffler shop some how made the exhaust system leak and start blowing exhaust on the engine block!!!! ... Since the exhaust was worked on at the time, it might be part of the problem. I still think the T-stat is bad.

I will try to follow up on this while I am changing the thermostat (which I mentioned previously was just installed by another shop last June).

 

[heyhar]

I'm going with a 180 thermostat for the summer and see how it goes. I just tested it out on the stove top and it opened up. I am going to drill a couple of holes in the flange 180 degree's apart and mount with the holes at 12 and 6 o'clock. I have read an earlier post from Ecomike stating not to drill the holes. I'll do a little more research before I do. I will then fill the system according to EcoMike's tip mentioned in post #39.

I was unable to locate any of the green silicate based old style antifreeze during my bike travels the last couple of days so I am going with some Prestone and distilled water (60/40 mix as per BulletMaker, post #39) I got from Wal-Mart. It's a real b*tch carting that stuff around on a bike.

A 180* Tstat is too cool for a catalyst equipped vehicle. It will cause othre problems. Go to the dealer, and get the right one. That's the only one you should use.

 

[Ecomike]

I'm going with a 180 thermostat for the summer and see how it goes. I just tested it out on the stove top and it opened up. I am going to drill a couple of holes in the flange 180 degree's apart and mount with the holes at 12 and 6 o'clock. I have read an earlier post from Ecomike stating not to drill the holes. I'll do a little more research before I do. I will then fill the system according to EcoMike's tip mentioned in post #39.

I was unable to locate any of the green silicate based old style antifreeze during my bike travels the last couple of days so I am going with some Prestone and distilled water (60/40 mix as per BulletMaker, post #39) I got from Wal-Mart. It's a real b*tch carting that stuff around on a bike.

Drilling the two holes is fine, if there is not already a jiggle valve hole. Just be careful where you drill the holes, not in a gasket seal area or too close to the moving piston overlap area in the center.

My post about not drilling the holes is because I do not believe they are needed, just opening the heat core valve to flow, and the existing flow in and out of the Renix bottle makes it unneeded. HO rigs are another story.

The HO rigs, with no bottle need the holes badly if the flow through the heater core is shut off!!!!

 

[Ecomike]

A 180* Tstat is too cool for a catalyst equipped vehicle. It will cause othre problems. Go to the dealer, and get the right one. That's the only one you should use.

I have run 160 F and 180 F, non dealer T-stats on Renix rigs for 8 years now, with no problem with the CAT or emissions tests or T-Stats.

HO OBD-II rigs is another story!!!

I do get better gas mileage with the 180 F T-stat than the 160 F in the winter, but a 192 F dealer stat is not needed (except maybe in a cold Canadian winter :gag. I have not used a dealer T-stat in 40 years. That said, I no longer trust most of the T-stats on the market now (reading horror stories here), I only use Murray T-Stats made in Israel now, and they have the giggler valve on them.

 

[Ecomike]

Water is a bi-product of combustion and it is normal for any car to drip a little water out the tailpipe. This typically appears when the tailpipe is cold because as it warms up, the water turns to vapor due to the heat build up in the exhaust. btw, this is also one of the reasons why mufflers/tailpipes are so prone to rot.

Hello Houston!!!!!

Actually the water is a gas leaving the engine, and stays a gas unless it condenses on a cold muffler and pipes during warm up. The heat is from the engine, and the Cat converter. The exhaust gas cools from the Cat out.

In addition, the exhaust gas contains CO2 and NOx gas that dissolves into condensed water forming pure nitric acid and carbonic acid, which causes the corrosion.

 

[FlyNNN]

A 180* Tstat is too cool for a catalyst equipped vehicle. It will cause othre problems. Go to the dealer, and get the right one. That's the only one you should use.

Ready for install, thought I would check in before I start screwing things down. No cat here at the moment. OK, I'm pondering.