Master Cylinder

Isn't the same for the spacer for an 00-01 Dodge 2500 w/ rear disc. master?
The spacer goes between the booster pushrod and the master right?
Rensing
 
FernXJ said:
Isn't the same for the spacer for an 00-01 Dodge 2500 w/ rear disc. master?
The spacer goes between the booster pushrod and the master right?
Rensing

Can anyone elaborate on this?

I have a booster out of a '95 ZJ in my XJ right now, didn't realize that the E350 master cyl wasn't going to work with this one.

Now I'm looking for something else to swap in to help squeeze the D60 and 14ff brakes, and apparently the Dodge 2500 MC works well, but the reservoir doesn't fit, or something like that.
 
XJoachim said:
The E-350 MC is for rear drums and has not equal sized reservoirs. You need them to be the same size if you run discs f/r.

WTF are you talking about? The reservoir size doesn't matter. You're not going to drain it every time you push the pedal.......

E350 M/C works perfectly well. I used it with dual piston Ford front calipers on my 3/4T D44 front (same brakes as your D60) and 3/4T chevy rear calipers on the 14B. I was running the single diaphram booster.

Best bang for the buck out there, stopped on a dime!
 
vintagespeed said:
Best bang for the buck out there, stopped on a dime!

Still doesn't help me, though. :(

I'm beginning to think it might be worth swapping the single diaphragm booster back in. The Dodge MC is around $107 w/o a reservoir, the E350 is like $32 and I have it already, and I can probably find a single booster somewhere around the garage.
 
vetteboy said:
Still doesn't help me, though. :(

I'm beginning to think it might be worth swapping the single diaphragm booster back in. The Dodge MC is around $107 w/o a reservoir, the E350 is like $32 and I have it already, and I can probably find a single booster somewhere around the garage.

yeah, $32 including the core charge! once you take in your old rusty XJ m/c from that back corner in the garage you get $10 back!

Why does the e350 not fit on a dual diaph booster? I thought the XJ m/c was the same?
 
Last edited:
vintagespeed said:
yeah, $32 including the core charge! once you take in your old rusty XJ m/c from that back corner in the garage you get $10 back!

Why does the e350 not fit on a dual diaph booster? I thought the XJ m/c was the same?

The seal between the MC and booster is totally different, the hole diameter is different, the bolt spacing is different (although I think you could drill the MC holes a little bigger to make it work), and the pushrod configuration is different. And the holes are on the wrong side.
 
vetteboy said:
The seal between the MC and booster is totally different, the hole diameter is different, the bolt spacing is different (although I think you could drill the MC holes a little bigger to make it work), and the pushrod configuration is different. And the holes are on the wrong side.

Oh, is that all? What the problem is? :banghead:
 
vintagespeed said:
Oh, is that all? What the problem is? :banghead:

:looney:

Yeah. You shoulda seen it when I pulled the thing out of the box and went to go bolt it up. I just kinda stared at it for a few minutes and was like um...what?

It's any of the later (post-'94) XJ's, ZJ's, and TJ's for sure that it won't work on. I forget if they ever made the change in the YJ's or not (those seemed to always get the short end of the upgrade stick).
 
I have the Dodge MC on mine, with the dual diaphragm booster. The 5/8" spacer goes between the booster pushrod, and the new MC, down in the hole. The reservoir just touches the underhood insulation, but it's a direct bolt on. I have chevy 1/2 ton disc brakes on all four corners, and it works like a charm. I think I paid $127 at autozone for a brand new one, but I hear you can get a rebuilt at Napa for around $50.00.

-Dan
 
How about more details on which e-350 has 4-wheel discs? Year/model? I've looked at Napaonline and can't find a 4-wheel disc app.
The reason you want a larger reservoir for the rear disc set-up (one that matches the front, by the way), is because as your pads wear, the added space behind the pistons is filled with fluid, dropping the available fluid in the reservoir; this doesn't happen with drum brakes. As long as you keep an eye on the fluid level, you would be OK. But, the '76 Mercury Grand Marquis with hydroboost uses an MC that is intended for 4-wheel disc and bolts up to the pre '95 XJ/YJ booster without ANY grinding or hole enlargement. So why not use it?
 
I use the stock master cylinder set with my 95 XJ to stop dual piston calipers on the front d60 and the 3/4 chevy calipers on the eaton. Works good and locks up the 39 crawlers when needed. Is everyone upgrading stuff from pre 95 brakes?

mac 'even left the plunger in there' gyvr
 
Dan Turner said:
I have the Dodge MC on mine, with the dual diaphragm booster. The 5/8" spacer goes between the booster pushrod, and the new MC, down in the hole. The reservoir just touches the underhood insulation, but it's a direct bolt on. I have chevy 1/2 ton disc brakes on all four corners, and it works like a charm. I think I paid $127 at autozone for a brand new one, but I hear you can get a rebuilt at Napa for around $50.00.

-Dan

Let's see...

- Dual diaphragm booster, check
- Dodge MC, check
- Pushrod taken care of, check
- Bolts on (needed to file holes just a little bit), check
- Reman'd from Napa for $50, check (+ $28 core)

So why the hell doesn't my hood close. :gonnablow :gonnablow :gonnablow
 
vetteboy said:
Let's see...

- Dual diaphragm booster, check
- Dodge MC, check
- Pushrod taken care of, check
- Bolts on (needed to file holes just a little bit), check
- Reman'd from Napa for $50, check (+ $28 core)

So why the hell doesn't my hood close. :gonnablow :gonnablow :gonnablow

Just a thought, But what year is your XJ and what year is the booster?
The 97+ boosters mount at a different angle than the 96-. so if you put the 97 booster on a earlier XJ the MC will point up and could cause your problem.

I know that the ZJ and TJ boosters will bolt on but i don't know about the angles on them.

Dingo
 
take off the ZJ booster and see if it has the same angle where it bolts to the firewall as the XJ, if it doesn't then you found your problem.

If you have a decent wrecking yard around go look for a 95-96 booster. just makes sure you get the little 1/4" aluminum spacer that goes betwen the booster and firewall (if it has one)

Dingo
 
After reading this the topic is about as clear as mud to me. I am in the same boat as the original poster and am still not clear on everything. I have an 87 with 3/4 D44 up front and D60 out back. I have no breaks either. I am trying to figure out what needs to be done. Well more of figure out what to replace. I understand the MC needs to be replaced but if I go with the '76 Mercury Grand Marquis MC can I use my stock booster or does that need to be replaced as well. What about the porportioner valve. I understand that needs to be replaced as well but which part do I need to get as a replacement? Any help would be appriciated.
 
This is what I did, and it works perfectly. And it cost nothing but your labor. I have a 1990 and the proportion valve that has the front and back brake lines coming out of it has a o-ring that keeps more fluid from going to the back brakes. Drum brakes doesn't need as much fluid, all you have to do is pull the plunger remove the o-ring and reinstall. You have all the brakes you need. The plunger is in the proportional valve and mine had the rubber cap over the front of it. I found this on bigoffroad I believe.
 
So, umm, to clarify for me...


I have an 89 with stock master/booster and disks all around. The 99+ E-350 master will bolt in and solve my having to pump the pedal woes?
 
Golly, everyone seems to have this brake issue...including me. =)
 
Im in the process of doing brakes on mine. I have a 94 what MC should I get? As of right now I have the stock axles with disk/drum but at some point I want to got 44/20 with disks all the way around.

Andrew
 
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