Dundy
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Taunton, MA
Drag link under the knuckle?
making some changes
- Thread starter beakie
- Start date
beakie
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Ontario, Canada
set down to full bump I can move axle mount (t-bar) up about 3/4" frame side can come down about 2" to help out.
I think I will move steering box back and up a touch (not in stone yet) and then source a pitman arm that makes up whatever difference is left.
won't be able too, as knuckles are drilled/reamed for TRE's from above. the draglink is on top of the hi-steer, if I flip it, 10lbs of shit in 5lbs bag.
knuckles are out to be reamed anyway, so fabbing/modifying trac bar mounts will be Saturdays project, and moving the steering box.
everything can be dropped on moments notice however, as wife is due with our first, today... Dr's expectations are a week late, if not, induced soon after.
beakie
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Ontario, Canada
well got some forward progress since last update.
#1 = best update ever
#5 requires input, let me know what the masses have to say.
1. our son Rylan was born 2 days after the last update. mom and son did great, and he is already sleeping through some nights...
2. got the steering sorted out. flat pitman arm, steering box is forward 1" of stock, trac bar frame mount was built to match steering angles. draglink = 34.5" tracbar = 34"
3. new front bumper is in the works, will have the winch directly under the rad, approach angle should be near or better then stock bumper.
4. found a great deal on the tires in the flavour I was looking for. 38.5x14R16.5 TSL/SX
5. with the tires mounted I feel the front axle is too far forward. I am debating moving the crossmember back 2" frame side.
with it moved back I will have some adjustability of where the axle sits in the wheel wells. right now I can only move it forward, and stuffing the tires has them into the front fascia right off the bat.
as the pic shows, I have 2" of room at the back, none at the front. and the controls arms can't get any shorter.
thoughts?
#1 = best update ever
#5 requires input, let me know what the masses have to say.
1. our son Rylan was born 2 days after the last update. mom and son did great, and he is already sleeping through some nights...
2. got the steering sorted out. flat pitman arm, steering box is forward 1" of stock, trac bar frame mount was built to match steering angles. draglink = 34.5" tracbar = 34"
3. new front bumper is in the works, will have the winch directly under the rad, approach angle should be near or better then stock bumper.
4. found a great deal on the tires in the flavour I was looking for. 38.5x14R16.5 TSL/SX
5. with the tires mounted I feel the front axle is too far forward. I am debating moving the crossmember back 2" frame side.
with it moved back I will have some adjustability of where the axle sits in the wheel wells. right now I can only move it forward, and stuffing the tires has them into the front fascia right off the bat.
as the pic shows, I have 2" of room at the back, none at the front. and the controls arms can't get any shorter.
thoughts?
MoparManiac
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Amherst, NH
Did you already weld up the tube adapters? I'd be tempted to buy 3 more and shorten the arms.
beakie
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Ontario, Canada
the arms are 3/8th wall so I had to have them machined to accept the inserts. shortening would involve having more material machined out ($$) as I only went the depth of the inserts originally, hindsight 20-20, but I wanted the least amount taken out as possible.
the other benefit to moving the x-member back is a new/better mount for the tranny, apart from the suspension mounts.
the other benefit to moving the x-member back is a new/better mount for the tranny, apart from the suspension mounts.
MoparManiac
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Amherst, NH
Sounds like you got it figured out.
:thumbup:
:thumbup:
DeftwillP
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Round Rock TX
Keep the front stretch. Add TNT/treks inner wheel wells for clearance.
beakie
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Ontario, Canada
even with those I'd have to get rid of much of the front fascia... I would like to be able to drive this thing on the road now and then (trails are atleast 1 1/2 hours away) so I need everything up front lights/signals wise.
I will end up doing something like those anyway to make as much room as possible.
beakie
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Ontario, Canada
well the heep moved, was moved... either way.
loaded onto trailer and off to get some tube work.
I'm not much good at remembering to take progress pics, but this is what it looked like today.
moved the links crossmember back 2", and pushed the axle forward one from there.
I didn't take any "stuff" pics, but the tire fits much better then before, and I have the ability to adjust placement now as opposed to before. I am content with that.
front end is supported by a tube tacked in place, so it should ride about 2-3" higher then this with the coil-overs in place.
what's left of the body.
now the tube work should end up looking a little like a few of the tubed out rigs on here. I've always like the look of Vetteboy, RCMan's, and a few others rigs... but I gave my buddy free range to do as he pleases, along the lines I am looking for.
I am stoked to see how it turns out.
loaded onto trailer and off to get some tube work.
I'm not much good at remembering to take progress pics, but this is what it looked like today.
moved the links crossmember back 2", and pushed the axle forward one from there.
I didn't take any "stuff" pics, but the tire fits much better then before, and I have the ability to adjust placement now as opposed to before. I am content with that.
front end is supported by a tube tacked in place, so it should ride about 2-3" higher then this with the coil-overs in place.
what's left of the body.
now the tube work should end up looking a little like a few of the tubed out rigs on here. I've always like the look of Vetteboy, RCMan's, and a few others rigs... but I gave my buddy free range to do as he pleases, along the lines I am looking for.
I am stoked to see how it turns out.
beakie
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Ontario, Canada
progress has been made.
a good buddy went and had a look at things the other day, sent me these pics;
I was stoked, so I had to go see it myself, took these;
as happy as I was with everything, I did make 1 change, I'll let you figure out what it was, I'm sure many already noticed it.
I'm putting in a full day working on it later this week, that should slow progress down severely, but it will be out of the shop in less then 2 weeks now... then I'll be responsible for it again... ugh.
a good buddy went and had a look at things the other day, sent me these pics;
I was stoked, so I had to go see it myself, took these;
as happy as I was with everything, I did make 1 change, I'll let you figure out what it was, I'm sure many already noticed it.
I'm putting in a full day working on it later this week, that should slow progress down severely, but it will be out of the shop in less then 2 weeks now... then I'll be responsible for it again... ugh.
twodoorXJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- northern new jersey
Looks badass
beakie
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Ontario, Canada
few pics of how the rear is turning out.
the tube guy really wanted to add the second C pillar piece, it turned out well.
rear shock hoops tac'd in, and the X behind the rear seat is ready to go (looking closely you'll see the snazzy photoshop of the one X bar... will finish that up for real this week).
the X goes right above the shock mounts, so will get a tiny piece of tube/gusset, depending on the gap. to tie everything together. forgot to grab s side/top pic to show where everything comes/goes.
where it is right now
voila, post-chop
the tube guy really wanted to add the second C pillar piece, it turned out well.
rear shock hoops tac'd in, and the X behind the rear seat is ready to go (looking closely you'll see the snazzy photoshop of the one X bar... will finish that up for real this week).
the X goes right above the shock mounts, so will get a tiny piece of tube/gusset, depending on the gap. to tie everything together. forgot to grab s side/top pic to show where everything comes/goes.
where it is right now
voila, post-chop
beakie
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Ontario, Canada
well the rear tube work is pretty much buttoned up.
the X is done, shocks hoops are in place and the X will attach to the hoops via a gusset or 2.
dispite my best efforts (first time notching, bending, fitting tubes) the rear X ended up exactly centered.
the hoops are directly under the X, and will attach right over the shocks.
the front C/O's will attach to these hoops, just having to clear a bunch of room from the wheel wells to make them fit.
any thoughts, comments, ideas for what's left is welcomed.
the X is done, shocks hoops are in place and the X will attach to the hoops via a gusset or 2.
dispite my best efforts (first time notching, bending, fitting tubes) the rear X ended up exactly centered.
the hoops are directly under the X, and will attach right over the shocks.
the front C/O's will attach to these hoops, just having to clear a bunch of room from the wheel wells to make them fit.
any thoughts, comments, ideas for what's left is welcomed.
beakie
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Ontario, Canada
progress has slowed, the Jeep fund took 2 hard hits in the last month
1. bought an Atlas 4.3, used but great condition... it's an atlas they don't come up for sale up this way very often, for the price I had to grab it quick.
2. the wife and I found out we are expecting our 2nd child in Sept... just 2 1/2 months after our first turns 1.
so finding time and money isn't going to get any easier 6 months from now... I better get back at this.
onto the pics
deciding where the fuel cell will go, will end up about here to provide clearance for the dif to stuff up, and for possible upper link mounts on the dif in the years to come.
built a truss, started with 1/4" plate, added some 1/4" gussets for support, still have to add some bumpstop pads, they will tie the truss and the leaf perches together.
then cut some 1/8" and added a few dimples to finish it off. where the gussets are under the 1/4" plate I slotted the 1/8" and welded through to the gussets to tie it all together.
all ground down, ready for some paint.
there is a small gap at the top of the truss where the 1/8" pieces are seperate, I have plans for that to toughen up the top plate, and fill that gap, but I don't have the means to weld to the cast pumpkin so will add that part later.
1. bought an Atlas 4.3, used but great condition... it's an atlas they don't come up for sale up this way very often, for the price I had to grab it quick.
2. the wife and I found out we are expecting our 2nd child in Sept... just 2 1/2 months after our first turns 1.
so finding time and money isn't going to get any easier 6 months from now... I better get back at this.
onto the pics
deciding where the fuel cell will go, will end up about here to provide clearance for the dif to stuff up, and for possible upper link mounts on the dif in the years to come.
built a truss, started with 1/4" plate, added some 1/4" gussets for support, still have to add some bumpstop pads, they will tie the truss and the leaf perches together.
then cut some 1/8" and added a few dimples to finish it off. where the gussets are under the 1/4" plate I slotted the 1/8" and welded through to the gussets to tie it all together.
all ground down, ready for some paint.
there is a small gap at the top of the truss where the 1/8" pieces are seperate, I have plans for that to toughen up the top plate, and fill that gap, but I don't have the means to weld to the cast pumpkin so will add that part later.
beakie
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Ontario, Canada
this was delivered today,
hoping to get it into place later this week after a quick clean, drain and refill.
hoping to get it into place later this week after a quick clean, drain and refill.
beakie
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Ontario, Canada
so a little dilemma, I ordered a 3/4" clocking ring from a distributer of AA... however AA decided I would prefer a 1" spacer adapter. 2 week lead for the clocking ring, same day shipping of spacer... however the Atlas came with the spacer already, I wanted the clocking ring to lay the Atlas completely flat.
So after talking with AA, I re-drilled the transmission holes, clocked the Atlas as flat as I could with it's options and this is where it sits currently.
Now obviously it's not flat, but it is close, and it hangs no lower then the crossmember as it sits now.
I see 2 benefits of leaving it as it is;
1. better front d-shaft angle
2. less intrusive to the interior (although you can see there is no floor so it's not that big of a deal)
So I have this spacer, which I didn't want, or even need, which will be shipped back.
Do I get my money back and leave the Atlas as is, or do I wait for the 3/4" clocking ring and clock it the way I originally wanted?
for those who've clocked their t-cases flat, whether Atlas or not... what say you?
So after talking with AA, I re-drilled the transmission holes, clocked the Atlas as flat as I could with it's options and this is where it sits currently.
Now obviously it's not flat, but it is close, and it hangs no lower then the crossmember as it sits now.
I see 2 benefits of leaving it as it is;
1. better front d-shaft angle
2. less intrusive to the interior (although you can see there is no floor so it's not that big of a deal)
So I have this spacer, which I didn't want, or even need, which will be shipped back.
Do I get my money back and leave the Atlas as is, or do I wait for the 3/4" clocking ring and clock it the way I originally wanted?
for those who've clocked their t-cases flat, whether Atlas or not... what say you?
MoparManiac
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Amherst, NH
Here's my advice.
How tall are you?
Get your seats mocked up with the t-case out and situate them where you are comfortable with some amount of head room.
Put the t-case back in and clock it until there's about 1" before it hits your seat.
That's all you're going to be able to get out of it.
If you look at where my NP205 is, I could have clocked it up more. But honestly, I don't want to have my helmet/head riding the roof just for an inch of ground clearance.
I'd gladly give that up for safety. My belly pan hangs 1.5" below the frame rails. But it's completely smooth/flat.
How tall are you?
Get your seats mocked up with the t-case out and situate them where you are comfortable with some amount of head room.
Put the t-case back in and clock it until there's about 1" before it hits your seat.
That's all you're going to be able to get out of it.
If you look at where my NP205 is, I could have clocked it up more. But honestly, I don't want to have my helmet/head riding the roof just for an inch of ground clearance.
I'd gladly give that up for safety. My belly pan hangs 1.5" below the frame rails. But it's completely smooth/flat.
beakie
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Ontario, Canada
not very tall, 5'9" maybe.
seats don't exist yet, nor do any interior tubing to mount them on (the square stock was to keep things squared while welding stiffiners, cage, etc)... but I expect head room won't be a problem.
I do understand your reasoning, and will grab a buddies seat to mock up to ensure I have plenty of room.
it is growing on me the more I look at it, and as you say it won't hang below my belly pan no matter how high I clock it... so why put more thought into it.
thanks for the insight.
kmanxj5050
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Reed City Michigan
This looks awesome! Very nice job!
beakie
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Ontario, Canada
Well, finally able to get some work done today.
FOA air bumps arrived this week, it's gonna be a tight fit depending where I can place them. Won't be getting to them this week anyway as a buddy has already borrowed them to replace his blown Fox bumps.
Dropped by TMR, grabbed their Atlas support ring (just the ring) want to make sure that heavy bugar stays in place. Been waiting on that to build a second x-member behind the one for the front suspension.
Got some plumbing in place for the fuel cell > stock lines. Filter and pump mounts are just exhaust pipe cut in 1/2 and some square stock to attach to frame rails. Ran the first line through the 2x2 so I could maximize storage space behind the cell, and protect the line (rubber grommets in 2x2), both filter and pump are below the cell.
Took a few days off this week in hopes to get some actual work done. Plan is to get most if not all the electrics back in place, and if possible fire it up again. Would need to get the fuel lines finished, and cell mounted... but who knows it's been a while maybe I can "Get It Together, See What's Happening"
FOA air bumps arrived this week, it's gonna be a tight fit depending where I can place them. Won't be getting to them this week anyway as a buddy has already borrowed them to replace his blown Fox bumps.
Dropped by TMR, grabbed their Atlas support ring (just the ring) want to make sure that heavy bugar stays in place. Been waiting on that to build a second x-member behind the one for the front suspension.
Got some plumbing in place for the fuel cell > stock lines. Filter and pump mounts are just exhaust pipe cut in 1/2 and some square stock to attach to frame rails. Ran the first line through the 2x2 so I could maximize storage space behind the cell, and protect the line (rubber grommets in 2x2), both filter and pump are below the cell.
Took a few days off this week in hopes to get some actual work done. Plan is to get most if not all the electrics back in place, and if possible fire it up again. Would need to get the fuel lines finished, and cell mounted... but who knows it's been a while maybe I can "Get It Together, See What's Happening"
