long arm question....

Timmy2XJS

Timmy2XJS

NAXJA Forum User
Location
cherry point NC
hi ya boys! and girls if we have some reading this... :D

heres what iv got
99 XJ with the 9 in / 44 combo and a homemade short arm 4 link.

i want to go long arms but i dont have a pipe bender and all the other things one would just fab up what ever is needed. i would love some input from people who have this set up or know anything about it.

i see the iron rock kit and it looks fairly beefy, but i dont know how it would work with my axles and yadda yadda.

any one got some info theyd care to share?

:D
 
Yes sir. Iron Rock has a sick long arm upgrade. I run it and get that dang flex! The on road ride is really smooth also. I recommend this kit to anyone.
 
even with the full widths? i wouldnt think they would play a big role im just kinda leery about burning 600 bucks and it not work for my application ya know what i mean? :D
 
I have a RC 6.5" long arm kit and i like it alot. Its pretty beefy. I chose it over the iron rock because it had a bigger skid plate x member, sway bar quick disconnects, and it was $300 cheaper. And as far as having swapped axles i'd say that as long as you put the xj axle mounts back on the kit should mount up just fine.
 
well i dont have sway bars any more and i a have a DRP belly skid already. the mounts on the axle are pretty close to stock XJ points. when i did the short arms we made some uppers, we took a set of RE extreme duty lowers and cut em down to fit. (got it close enough to not need an alignment when it was all said and done) so i think the kit will go in ok but id still love more thoughts :D
 
Could you not make it work? Cut off brackets and weld back at a more reliable location on the axle?
 
If you haven't had trouble with your current control arms then you won't have any issues with these.
 
sweet deal. if im smart with my dough, i could have the kit orderd and installed before my second kid is born lol

its nice having a rig you can load car seats into lol
 
Looking at the kit and hearing that you already have half the stuff and the ability to make a custom short arm kit, i'd say give making your own set a shot. i'd bet if you got large side wall pipe and just cut, mitred and re welded it, then added a gusset to the inside for added strength you'd be fine. maybe even experiment with moving brackets around to get your tire clearance some other way.
 
Hadfield runs a radius arm set-up morphed into a set of Johnny Joints at the frame, similar to a long arm but not!

He is running a 44/9 combo.

It has to be tough to survive his driving
 
the 44 has been stripped down and all the links for the XJ are on it. the wedges are no more. i think the iron rock is going to be my best choice and ill be researching it alot before the ole visa comes out, but as i said i would love as much input as i can get :D
 
im about to go with the tnt long arm... iam choosing this one because of where and how the lowers mount. they are mounted inside the frame not under it. making it impossible to get hung up on them in the rocks
 
256offroad said:
im about to go with the tnt long arm... iam choosing this one because of where and how the lowers mount. they are mounted inside the frame not under it. making it impossible to get hung up on them in the rocks
Click to expand...

X2 This is what I'm running. I don't think the difference in the full widths will matter since the brackets are the same. The only thing is, the TNT kit has it's own belly pan/x-member/mounting points with the kit. I guess you could sell the DGP belly pan. Seems though, you could build your own with a little help from a bender. You got the skillz!
 
I am a vendor for both TNT and Rock Krawler and have installed both so I will try to give you the pros and cons of each.

TNT:
Pros: Super high clearance, tough belly pan that doubles as the crossmember.

Cons: It is a true double radius arm design which means it binds up under flex, and will limit the suspension articulation to some extent. The NEW kits have a modular belly pan which is ok, but the older kits were one piece which IMO is better. Also, the hardware sometimes isn't even close to correct, it can be a pain in the butt to get on, and on some late models it doesn't even fit right at all, and you have to make special spacers for some of the brackets. Also, you have to drop your entire front suspension down to service the trans or t-case, and finally, the Ballistic joints that they use squeak and squalk enough to drive a man insane.

Rock Krawler:
Pros: Solid control arms that are bent for high clearance. The control arm brackets are seperate so the stock or aftermarket belly pans/crossmembers will still work. This also means that it is as easy as a factory setup to service anything, no need to drop the suspension. They use their own styel joints that simply don't squeak, and the 3 link design WILL NOT limit flex at all. Also, the installation seemed a little easier than the TNT, and all of the hardware was correct. The entire kit comes powdercoated in gloss black and is ready to install.

Cons: Price, it's a little spendy, but honestly, you will get what you pay for. The lower brackets are under the frame rails instead of next to it, but really, they only sit about an inch lower than the TNT setup, and so far they haven't even hit anything on the LS2 XJ, so I would say they are plenty out of the way.

Either way, if you decide to get either of these just let me know, I can get you a really good deal on them.
 
I'll keep that in mind Tyler. Didn't know you were a vendor for both of them. I wonder if I can still run my TNT flAt belly skid with the rock krawler brackets.
Rock Solid Fab said:
I am a vendor for both TNT and Rock Krawler and have installed both so I will try to give you the pros and cons of each.

TNT:
Pros: Super high clearance, tough belly pan that doubles as the crossmember.

Cons: It is a true double radius arm design which means it binds up under flex, and will limit the suspension articulation to some extent. The NEW kits have a modular belly pan which is ok, but the older kits were one piece which IMO is better. Also, the hardware sometimes isn't even close to correct, it can be a pain in the butt to get on, and on some late models it doesn't even fit right at all, and you have to make special spacers for some of the brackets. Also, you have to drop your entire front suspension down to service the trans or t-case, and finally, the Ballistic joints that they use squeak and squalk enough to drive a man insane.

Rock Krawler:
Pros: Solid control arms that are bent for high clearance. The control arm brackets are seperate so the stock or aftermarket belly pans/crossmembers will still work. This also means that it is as easy as a factory setup to service anything, no need to drop the suspension. They use their own styel joints that simply don't squeak, and the 3 link design WILL NOT limit flex at all. Also, the installation seemed a little easier than the TNT, and all of the hardware was correct. The entire kit comes powdercoated in gloss black and is ready to install.

Cons: Price, it's a little spendy, but honestly, you will get what you pay for. The lower brackets are under the frame rails instead of next to it, but really, they only sit about an inch lower than the TNT setup, and so far they haven't even hit anything on the LS2 XJ, so I would say they are plenty out of the way.

Either way, if you decide to get either of these just let me know, I can get you a really good deal on them.
Click to expand...
 
what crossmember are you running with that?

you running the tripple threat(4link) or the 3link setup?
 
iv thought about doing a 3 link too can anyone tell me the pros and cons to each? :D
 
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