Long Arm Kit

Ok now I see the difference between the Y link and 4 link. Correct me if Im wrong, Clayton has the "4 link" 4 control arms that dont conect to each other, they conect to the frame 4 places. Y link 2 lower control arms with 2 uppers that connect to the lowers ( as in the picture I posted). Sound about right?
 
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This is the Rustys kit I was looking at

there is nothing wrong with this kit. matter of fact this kit is exactly what bronze said he would like a back up upper link. it doesn't limit flex and is tuff.
 
Should NOTE a few Miscellaneous CON's:

1: Make sure the Kit you buy has a 3 piece Cross-member.. a few DONT, and while you may not service your transmission often, or need to lower your factory cross-member often.. The day you do, expect to add a few BIG steps to the job!

2: I like Ironrock's kit.. But Be aware, It's solely for a Dana 30. It will NOT work on any other front axle, without a Great deal of modifications..

3: Bushings, Joints, etc.. Read reviews on the Kit your interested in!!! I CANT STRESS THIS ENOUGH! I personally couldnt say witch kit is "stronger" then another kit.. But I do know that "Chinese" joints/bushings do not compare to OEM style bushings, and Currie Johnny joints.. One Company I've had this issue with, was Rough country.. Bushings AND Johny joints wore out completely in the first 5k miles..
 
Should NOTE a few Miscellaneous CON's:

1: Make sure the Kit you buy has a 3 piece Cross-member.. a few DONT, and while you may not service your transmission often, or need to lower your factory cross-member often.. The day you do, expect to add a few BIG steps to the job!

2: I like Ironrock's kit.. But Be aware, It's solely for a Dana 30. It will NOT work on any other front axle, without a Great deal of modifications..

3: Bushings, Joints, etc.. Read reviews on the Kit your interested in!!! I CANT STRESS THIS ENOUGH! I personally couldnt say witch kit is "stronger" then another kit.. But I do know that "Chinese" joints/bushings do not compare to OEM style bushings, and Currie Johnny joints.. One Company I've had this issue with, was Rough country.. Bushings AND Johny joints wore out completely in the first 5k miles..

I completely agree.
 
Should NOTE a few Miscellaneous CON's:

1: Make sure the Kit you buy has a 3 piece Cross-member.. a few DONT, and while you may not service your transmission often, or need to lower your factory cross-member often.. The day you do, expect to add a few BIG steps to the job!

2: I like Ironrock's kit.. But Be aware, It's solely for a Dana 30. It will NOT work on any other front axle, without a Great deal of modifications..

3: Bushings, Joints, etc.. Read reviews on the Kit your interested in!!! I CANT STRESS THIS ENOUGH! I personally couldnt say witch kit is "stronger" then another kit.. But I do know that "Chinese" joints/bushings do not compare to OEM style bushings, and Currie Johnny joints.. One Company I've had this issue with, was Rough country.. Bushings AND Johny joints wore out completely in the first 5k miles..

I have heard about and planned on going with the 3 pc cross member, I will read more about the joints. I will make sure they are OEM or American made!!:patriot:
 
I have heard about and planned on going with the 3 pc cross member, I will read more about the joints. I will make sure they are OEM or American made!!:patriot:

I can say that the rusty joints need a bit of attention the first 3000mi but after that it just grease and go. also all bushings and joint can be replaced later one at a time or just collect them and do them at once.
I plan when my rusty joints go bad I will invest in Currie joints
 
What do you have for front suspension now? If you have good short arm stuff already a set of drop brackets could be an option, you can stay 4 link and have long arm flex.

Drop brackets blow! But I know you have them along with adjustable arms. But if he has to go buy all that like I now do he may as well stick with plan A.
 
My set up now is a rustys 6.5" with a over knuckle hime steer. In fact my whole set up came from Rustys, springs, all the steering, track bar, drag link, shocks and the SYE kit. The front end is a D30, with an aussie.
 
I really think the limiting factor to my suspension, ride & flex is long arm, this is how the whole thing got started.
 
6.5" on short arms IS a limiting factor.. But if you have Quality Adjustable arms, A Drop bracket kit WILL fix your problems for 1/3rd of the price. FYI!
 
there is nothing wrong with this kit. matter of fact this kit is exactly what bronze said he would like a back up upper link. it doesn't limit flex and is tuff.

not really, it is a y link. relying on the (2) frame mount points. id hate to see what the suspention did if you lost one of thoes on the trail.i run a true 3 link and would add another true link if i did it agin. plus in all y link systems i see binding issues in the geometry. dont get me wrong redjeep2.0, fiveNdime, mojojojo and many others have had major sucess and major flex. its just my take on things. id just prefer a true 4 link like the bds. with more beef



Someone remembers what happen to RedJeep before the long arm...

Drop brackets wouldn't stop moving on me
Got rid of them very shortly after

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That was a long drive home... One lower 2 uppers

dont let this fool you, nic was having problems with this contol arm bucket for a while befor it did this. he ran no braces to suport the back side of them. we had warned him a feiw times that it was starting to rock around. he wheeled it until it failed, then went long arm shortly after. many people have ram DB's, braced them up, and no problem... they have amazed me then and still to this day.
 
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