Lockers on a DANA 35? Noobie looking for serious advice.

this will be interesting as i have TSL swampers in 34x9.50x15 on stock axles (D30/D35) and im planning on welding the rear axle locked and il see how long before it grenade! its my trail rig so no worry about unable to go home haha
 
My friend blew a D35 twice on the street running 33" tires open. Jeep was never wheeled.

A girl I know blew a D35 last week, also open, running 32s, on the street. Jeep was barely wheeled once.

its simply a POS axle. theres no if ands or buts.
 
D35's on 33's will break..Lost my spyders doing this..I know to much skinny pedal..
OHchit.jpg

Put some used ones back in, at went back to go up that water fall.Found 4 more on the same trail..My axles havent broke yet..Just go easy on the gas..
 
Thanks for the advice guys, lots of good info here. Let me just verify: As long as I don't go bigger than like 30x10.5R15, I should be fine?
I don't have any intention of pounding this thing as hard as I can get it to go, I always make sure I am easy and smooth on the gas: I'm not one to pound on the pedal as hard as I can the instant I get it stuck under a rock. I don't really have the knowhow or the desire to upgrade my rear axle to an 8.25 or a D44 right now, but from what I hear my D35 should be fine. I have no intention of peeling out or trying to drive the thing like a sportscar. As for locking both the front and back, I'm planning on getting a posi front end or a limited slip at a later date, but as for right now... I think I'll just leave it open and lock up the back. Thanks for all the advice guys.

As for what kind of locker I'm planning on getting...I'm planning on the Detroit E-Z locker.
 
First off to all you who say your 35 is holding up to 33s you obviously dont have the same definition of beating on your rig as the rest of us.
Ive seen plenty of 100% stock vehicles come into the shop w/ broken and blown d35s. Our group has a strict 33s, 1 locker, rock sliders, and no d35 rule to attend our runs.
THEY SUCK .

Hubbazoot- with 30s you should be ok, but still realize it is weak and all it takes is one time.
The Detroit EZ lock, Lock Rite, and Aussies are all the same basic locker. Get what ever is cheapest. Watch Ebay I see them on there all the time. BTW if you have the knowledge to install a locker then you can upgrade a rear axle. Infact its almost a matter of loosening and tightening the same number of bolts.
 
First off to all you who say your 35 is holding up to 33s you obviously dont have the same definition of beating on your rig as the rest of us.
Ive seen plenty of 100% stock vehicles come into the shop w/ broken and blown d35s. Our group has a strict 33s, 1 locker, rock sliders, and no d35 rule to attend our runs.
THEY SUCK .

Hubbazoot- with 30s you should be ok, but still realize it is weak and all it takes is one time.
The Detroit EZ lock, Lock Rite, and Aussies are all the same basic locker. Get what ever is cheapest. Watch Ebay I see them on there all the time. BTW if you have the knowledge to install a locker then you can upgrade a rear axle. Infact its almost a matter of loosening and tightening the same number of bolts.

Alright, if I were to swap to a D44, what else do I need to swap, how long does it take, and do I need any special tools?
 
Alright, if I were to swap to a D44, what else do I need to swap, how long does it take, and do I need any special tools?

This may sound trite, but you can put the advice of many of the die hard D35 haters in a can and eject it.

Put the locker in your D35, take it out on the trail and enjoy it for what it is. Just realize that it is not "bullet proof", and that number one cause of axle failure is the "Spin & Stop", where you are wildly spinning your tires, and one of them suddenly stops (gets some grip), so take it easy. You will find that with a locker, things become easier anyway.

When you decide to upgrade, get a nice used Ford 8.8 in your favorite gearing out of an Exploder, and get discs brakes for the price and effort of a D44 upgrade.

8.8 Axle.
U-Bolts.
U-Joint and or rear drive shaft.
Jackstands (Tall enough to support the frame).
Assorted hand and socket wrenches or air tools up to 13/16".
Brake cables from a Grand Cherokee.
Patience ;)
 
i find this type of discussion sooooo frustrating, i am in the situation where i have a broken D35 ( bearings) and after 377,000 kilometers of suburban and off road use I'm going to pay the money and have it rebuilt, obviously here in Australia we dont have as great an opportunity to go down to our local wrecker and grab a 8.25 for $150 as you do

but when bagging out the D35 you really need to quantify YOUR driving style, i personally am of the slow and steady school, i love off road driving and am amazed where i can take my jeep, but i dont rock hop at 180 miles an hour

when you say you break D35 with anything over 30 inch tyres .........i dont know how you drive, i have 31 inch tyres and the standard trac lok diff and i know how to use my hand brake, and never had an issue with the rear end. except now it has warn out from old age

so tell me if i spend the bucks getting it overhauled will it be good for another 16 years and 300,000 plus kilometers???????????? i suspect it will

i guess while this IS the modified forum not all of us drive rigs with 7 inch lift and 35 inch tyres, i for one have about 3 - 4 inch lift disconnects in the front no rear bar and engine mods, so i think of my jeep as modified

so go easy on us not all of us thrash the c##p out of our cars

Ewen
 
On my trail only Jeep. I have a welded non-C-clip 35. Been running it for two year. No problems. I only run 31's. I would not want to run a welded rear for a daily driver though. Like stated before. If you drive correctly with it locked, it won't (easily) break.
 
I may do an 8.8 conversion before I install this locker. How difficult is this project without a welder?

I forgot about that...

You will need a set of spring purches, and either a welder or know someone who can weld.

You need to roughly align the spring purches as installed in the truck, and tack on the spring purches. Then either finish the job on the truck, or remove the axle and finish welding on the purches.
 
I may do an 8.8 conversion before I install this locker. How difficult is this project without a welder?

you need a welder. You'll have to weld on new spring perches. A D44 from an XJ will be harder to find but easier to install, essentially a bolt in. Either or wll be about the same price. An 8.25 would be easy to find and most likely a bit cheaper. That would also be a bolt in. You'll need u bolts for any of them, all have bigger tubes than a D35
 
you need a welder. You'll have to weld on new spring perches. A D44 from an XJ will be harder to find but easier to install, essentially a bolt in. Either or wll be about the same price. An 8.25 would be easy to find and most likely a bit cheaper. That would also be a bolt in. You'll need u bolts for any of them, all have bigger tubes than a D35

I'll see if I can pull a Dana 44 from the yard. An axle is an axle there. Worth spending a little more time for a direct swap.
 
The only thing to think about if swapping a bigger axle into a Jeep with smaller tires will be diff clearance. The 44 and 8.8 have larger pumpkins. However you'd have to get really stupid to bust one of them with 30s... :D
 
First off to all you who say your 35 is holding up to 33s you obviously dont have the same definition of beating on your rig as the rest of us.

And thats bull. I have more damage on the underside of my rig then most people with larger tires. My frame rails are completed smashed, gas tank is reduced by a couple gallons, t-case is above frame rails, etc, etc.

It all about knowing how to drive, not tire size.. You don't hop the rear end, you don't wedge a tires. Spinning tires till they hook also break stuff.

Classic example is Tim Hardy and his sammi. He has some small axles on 33's forever and follows everyone everywhere and hardly ever breaks. He knows how to drive and avoids what breaks axles.

Another local guy has a XJ on 34's with stock axles and it looks similar to Hardy's sammi and he wheels it all over the place, never had any issues with the rear 35.

I decide I would spend 500 on mine and that would be it, was well spent and last quite awhile with no issues till I replaced it.
 
And thats bull. I have more damage on the underside of my rig then most people with larger tires. My frame rails are completed smashed, gas tank is reduced by a couple gallons, t-case is above frame rails, etc, etc.

It all about knowing how to drive, not tire size.. You don't hop the rear end, you don't wedge a tires. Spinning tires till they hook also break stuff.

Classic example is Tim Hardy and his sammi. He has some small axles on 33's forever and follows everyone everywhere and hardly ever breaks. He knows how to drive and avoids what breaks axles.

Another local guy has a XJ on 34's with stock axles and it looks similar to Hardy's sammi and he wheels it all over the place, never had any issues with the rear 35.

I decide I would spend 500 on mine and that would be it, was well spent and last quite awhile with no issues till I replaced it.
If I do spin tires, I try a new approach because if you have to spin tires to get over something, you should be trying a new approach anyway. I don't see any reason why simply being careful will avoid any axle issues. 30's aren't very big tires, and I'm not playing smokey and the bandit with my rig, so I'm confident I'll be fine.
 
If you have build plans in your future than it's a waste of time and money. If you plan to stay where you are, throw an aussie in there and have fun.

PS, no Detroit in the D35!

I still stand by this statement but Darky had a good point. If you can find a 29 spline 8.25, 96+ (99 for sure) it would be a direct swap. (search for correct years)

It's a decent axle and might take a little worry out of your wheelin.

As I said, I never broke my D35 but I did swap it out. I was tired of worrying about it. Just something to think about.
 
Since it is a DD, I would throw an aussie in the front and be done with it. You will be amazed what you can do with the front only locked. I started that way, then put an aussie in the rear. I hate how it drives with an autolocker in the rear. If it was my DD I would remove the rear auto locker!!
 
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