locker vs. locker

[explorer]

20K miles??? Wow, my front and rear No-Slips were "broken in" after 100 miles. Maybe it's the quality of the installation. Or the synthetic blend gear oil. You can avoid the tire chirp by not accelerating hard around corners. I'm not saying that a No-Slip is invisible on the street, but pretty close.

BTW, no matter what anyone says, no automatic locker is totally "invisible" on the street. You just get used to it, so it feels invisible. Let someone else drive your Jeep, and they will definitely feel it.

Have you run a standard Lockright and if so how does the no-slip compare? Specifically, in regard to the normal clicks and bangs, is it any better? And I agree, none of them are invisible. I have no problem driving them in poor conditions, etc. but am very cautious when letting others drive it.

 

[bgcntry72]

Have you run a standard Lockright and if so how does the no-slip compare? Specifically, in regard to the normal clicks and bangs, is it any better? And I agree, none of them are invisible. I have no problem driving them in poor conditions, etc. but am very cautious when letting others drive it.

The NoSlip is essentially a quieter LockRight, with an extra set of release gears, which eliminate the clicking sound.
As I said, I have had all 3, and have LockRights now.
NoSlip was great, I just prefer fewer parts.
HTH.

 

[explorer]

I have run all of the above, at one point or another.
My favorite combo for the 'street rig' was a NoSlip out back and open front.
The NoSlip will occasionally 'wind up' and release, with a bang, but it was rare, and the instances only decreased over time.
Silent and deadly, that NoSlip.
Currently, I have 4.88s and LockRights front and rear on my rig, driven daily.
Get the Unobtanium crosspins, to be sure, especially if you have a c-clip axle.

To clarify, the Lockright came w/ the hardened shaft and it was installed. When I sold it to my friend, I kept the crossshaft, then forgot to reuse it when I reinstalled the Lockright. That was the first one that broke. The second was the hardened shaft. By the way, that Lockright survived some pretty good abuse when it was in my DD. In my friends Jeep it survived a broken axle shaft and three broken ring and pinion sets. It then went back in to mine and only after a lot of severe abuse did the cross shaft give me problems. I was launching from a stop at @3500 rpm and then the pin broke during a full power/redline shift to second. So I'm convinced that they are plenty durable. Do you prefer the No-slip to the Detroit. I understand everyone thinks that Detroits are the be-all end-all king of lockers, but I have seen Detroits broken, and I have seen Lockrights broken. I couldn't honestly say one is stronger than the other.

 

[explorer]

Again, if the funds are available, I'd go with the Super 44.......especially if you might end up getting allow shafts down the road. You might never break a 30 spline Spicer shaft........you won't break a 33 spline Superior shaft.

This is what I originally planned to do. I just figured going to the 44 would be a significant increase in strength as it is and do I really need to spend the money. 36" radials are in the plans, but I need to do a lot of other things to the Jeep to make that happen. Saving a few hundred on the axle setup could pay for a badly needed fixed output on the t-case. Not to mention more lift. It just has coil spacers now, so I'm looking at dropping a couple grand there.

 

[bgcntry72]

To clarify, the Lockright came w/ the hardened shaft...

To re-clarify, the LockRight does not include the Zytanium crosspin, it is an option.
If you got it, you paid for it, about $20-25.
I have installed about 11 LockRights, and none came with the crosspin.
HTH.

It just has coil spacers now, so I'm looking at dropping a couple grand there.

BTW, if you are going to spend a 'couple grand' on coils, I want to see them.
Also, if you are going to 36" tyres, the 44 should be far down your list of worries.
Front.
Axle.

 

[MudDawg]

I have been running a no-slip in the rear for 2 years (my very first mod). It has the same manners as any other auto locker. Took a week or so to break in well. It is usually silent..on the occasion when it acts up, invariably the tire pressure is low on one side. I had a tru-track in the front...it broke last week..i put in a new lock-rite yesterday..glad i kept my old diff case..tested it last night..it VASTLY improved the way it pulls in mud. It steers ok under power..just a lot heavier feel in the wheel..in 2 wheel, making a full lock turn produces the racheting sound...otherwise it is invisible.

 

[explorer]

To re-clarify, the LockRight does not include the Zytanium crosspin, it is an option.
If you got it, you paid for it.
I have installed about 11 LockRights, and none came with the crosspin.
HTH.


BTW, if you are going to spend a 'couple grand' on coils, I want to see them.
Also, if you are going to 36" tyres, the 44 should be far down your list of worries.
Front.
Axle.

Yes I paid for it. Sorry I didn't explain that further. The couple grand is for a long arm setup. Waiting to see what Nth degree comes up with. As far as the frt. is concerned, I've broken a c/v shaft once in two years, wore out a bunch of u-joint shafts, and other than that no problems. The only time the cover has been off is to change gear ratios. The rear obviously is going to be stronger regardless. That is why I'm swapping the 44 in instead of repairing the 35 again and also why I'm thinking the Lockright will be enough. The plan was to use Superior 30 spline alloy shafts even w/ that. The frt. can wait till I have problems w/ it.

 

[DMMcG]

20K miles??? Wow, my front and rear No-Slips were "broken in" after 100 miles.

.....mine was just broken after 1,000 miles. But Richmond Gear did give me a new one under warranty.

Guess it takes some people longer than others to get used to the workings of an auto-locker.

 

[bgcntry72]

If I were going to run 36" on a 44, I would go with the Super 44, without question.
I would also upgrade to disks, because stopping is at least as important as going, IMHO.
Don't even get me started on the HP30.
Without a Super 30, I won't go over 34" locked.
Thats me, though.

 

[explorer]

If I were going to run 36" on a 44, I would go with the Super 44, without question.
I would also upgrade to disks, because stopping is at least as important as going, IMHO.
Don't even get me started on the HP30.
Without a Super 30, I won't go over 34" locked.
Thats me, though.

What are you running right now for tires? Have you broken it? Discs are going on with the 44, and at some point WJ frt. hardware from the knuckle out. And my TJ is a standard 30, not HP. What have you broken on the frt. 30? I have c/v shafts in the frt. and would like to keep them, which pretty much requires some variant of a 30, unless I have custom c/v's made, which I have investigated.. Gear and locker wise, I haven't broken anything in the frt. end. My overall goal is to retain as much clearance as possible, while keeping the CG as low as possible. I'm planning on as little lift as possible for the 36's, hopefully 3-4 inches and a slight body lift. The only problem w/ this plan is ratio avail. on the 30. I would like to go w/ 5.13-5.38? when I do the 36's and that is not available unless I also do the 44 frt. I have planned the frt. 44 if 4.88 don't keep me happy w/ the 36's. But then I'm back to the 297 u-joints, or high dollar custom stuff. As far as the shafts/u-joints go, its not a substantial upgrade to go to the 44, only gear ratio is making me consider it.

 

[explorer]

I have been running a no-slip in the rear for 2 years (my very first mod). It has the same manners as any other auto locker. Took a week or so to break in well. It is usually silent..on the occasion when it acts up, invariably the tire pressure is low on one side. I had a tru-track in the front...it broke last week..i put in a new lock-rite yesterday..glad i kept my old diff case..tested it last night..it VASTLY improved the way it pulls in mud. It steers ok under power..just a lot heavier feel in the wheel..in 2 wheel, making a full lock turn produces the racheting sound...otherwise it is invisible.

Regarding abnormal stuff w/ the lockers, my experience is the same. Always when a tire is down, even 5 psi or so affects the driveability noticeably.

Also thanks for all the input from everyone. Keep it coming if I'm not boring you to death.

Brian

 

[XJ_Matt]

I am running with an Aussie locker for the front and i love it. It is much more durable then a lockrite due to a better design and it is quieter if you care about that. I have a Spool for the dana 44 rear end nothing to break there. Running on 35" MTR's and its my Daily Driver plus it seen alot of rocks and hard use offroad.