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[Frank Z]

I used the heavy crank because I was running a stick shift. I now run an automatic. If I were to do it again for the automatic, I would go with the lighter crank.

Why? I'm asking because I've got the heavy crank (12 counter weights) setting next to my block in the garage. The stroker (if I ever get around to it) will go infront of an AW4.

 

[Hypoid]

Inertia; that stored energy stuff.
Not so important with an automatic, really helps smooth out starting with a manual. If you want mileage in a street engine, or acceleration in a strip engine, you don't need the parasitic loss. If you plan on lugging, hauling, or bogging, the stored energy helps to overcome resistance to torque.



Or so it's debated...

 

[philip_g]

so the extra half litre or so really makes that much difference?
I don't know if the current engine is just tired or not running right but the thing is a complete dog. I should probably do a compression test.


Whats the easiest way to pull the engine out of these things? Doesn't look like you have room to pull the engine and trans together. How about the radiator? Can you squeek by? Looks like it has to come out too.

 

[Frank Z]

so the extra half litre or so really makes that much difference?

YES!! Remember, there's no replacement for displacement.

Regarding the crankshaft, so far everything I've indicates that the larger crank is a better option due to it's weight and strength.

 

[philip_g]

I don't know if mine is a heavy or not, it's out of a 1985 Jeep CJ7

hopefully it'll be OK, seller said it needs to be polished but has no pitting. A light scratch on one of the journals though. I assume some emory cloth maybe scuffed down a little will be ok to polish it but I really don't know

 

[Frank Z]

Looks like a lighter crank, 4 counterweights. Here's a link that might help.
http://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/selection.html

 

[philip_g]

cool, I got the crank cheap enough that I'm not sure I really care about the weight.

 

[Rockken]

I don't know if you have seen this web site before, but I'm also planning on doing a stroker build soon and found this site. He seems to have some good information.

http://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/stroker.html

 

[Frank Z]

See Post #26

 

[philip_g]

can anyone suggest a machine shop to cheaply D) bore my block and shave it a little?
South denver preferred but I can drive.

 

[RockyCodeHead]

so the extra half litre or so really makes that much difference?
I don't know if the current engine is just tired or not running right but the thing is a complete dog. I should probably do a compression test.

That's actually what started me on a rebuild. My 4.0 just isn't performing well and it leaks oil like crazy.

Whats the easiest way to pull the engine out of these things? Doesn't look like you have room to pull the engine and trans together. How about the radiator? Can you squeek by? Looks like it has to come out too.

Don't sweat the radiator, it's a piece of cake to remove. You'll probably want the top cross member and radiator out of the way so the cherry picker doesn't have to be so high. And you should be able to remove the engine and tranny together.

You'll have to remove the trim from around the lights, then remove the screws that hold the grill assembly on. Once it's out of the way, the electric fan, and fan shroud and something like four screws are all that holds the upper crossmember on. Remove the cross member and the radiator will be obviosly easy to finish off.

 

[philip_g]

cool, thanks.
It does look like a very easy engine to pull. Last engine I pulled out and rebuilt was a rotary, I think this will be easier.

Has someone on the forum written a step by step howto for the best and easiest set of steps to get it out?