linking the rear end

[tealcherokee]

Wil, ive never been able to get the 4 link calc to work, it always screws up, i think its because i use open office, and not microsoft

xjj33p3r, do you have any pics, id like to take a look just to get some more ideas

 

[A Satria]

It's a kit, Clayton is the name of the company: http://www.claytonoffroad.com/

OK, thanks...
ps: did you talk to my friend ???

 

[xjj33p3r]

Wil, ive never been able to get the 4 link calc to work, it always screws up, i think its because i use open office, and not microsoft

xjj33p3r, do you have any pics, id like to take a look just to get some more ideas

 

[tealcherokee]

Yeah, thats what im thinking im going to do, i dunno, i really cant decide if i want to keep the leaves or not.

spring under, and a traction bar seem so tempting
but so is coils and a 4 link lol

 

[BrettM]

Yeah, thats what im thinking im going to do, i dunno, i really cant decide if i want to keep the leaves or not.

spring under, and a traction bar seem so tempting
but so is coils and a 4 link lol

you likely wouldn't need a traction bar for spring under. it really only comes down to the bling factor, and with it lowered, you wouldn't even be able to see the bling.

 

[A Satria]

Yeah, thats what im thinking im going to do, i dunno, i really cant decide if i want to keep the leaves or not.

spring under, and a traction bar seem so tempting
but so is coils and a 4 link lol

Definetely "COILS"....,
why dont you give it sometimes, and whenever you are ready, go for "COILS".

Then again, would it be your daily driver or week-end hobby car ???

Would this XJ, be the one with the turbo ?, I thought it would be "STREET" version :rof:

 

[tealcherokee]

Definetely "COILS"....,
why dont you give it sometimes, and whenever you are ready, go for "COILS".

Then again, would it be your daily driver or week-end hobby car ???

Would this XJ, be the one with the turbo ?, I thought it would be "STREET" version :rof:

yes, its the one with the turbo, it is a street version, also going to be for rally racing....

daily driver also

 

[FarmerMatt]

For a ralley / street rig I'd run a panhard bar to locate the axle side to side. It is by far the best way to locate the axle side to side for your application.

Matt

 

[tealcherokee]

For a ralley / street rig I'd run a panhard bar to locate the axle side to side. It is by far the best way to locate the axle side to side for your application.

Matt

on top of triangulated uppers, or dont bother triangulating them?

 

[xjj33p3r]

on top of triangulated uppers, or dont bother triangulating them?

Shouldn't have to.

 

[bj-666]

the'll just fight each other. with no real benifit. the triangulation will keep the axle centered all the time and the panhard will pull the axle side to side slightly with articulation. but it may not be a prob with a long flat panhard and such little travel.

 

[BrettM]

he surely meant a panhard without triangulation in the other links, or at least very little. none is needed. I'm not sure I entirely agree though, I can see pros and cons to both, but it seems that rally trucks always get a dual-triangulated 4 link and not panhards.

 

[tealcherokee]

the'll just fight each other. with no real benifit. the triangulation will keep the axle centered all the time and the panhard will pull the axle side to side slightly with articulation. but it may not be a prob with a long flat panhard and such little travel.

i dont know, for some reason i hate track bars, and i really dont have the room for any side to side movement from the track bar, the tires are wide, and stick out further, the fenders already have to get beat outta the way under the flares (doesnt rub the flares, just the fender)

 

[A Satria]

yes, its the one with the turbo, it is a street version, also going to be for rally racing...., daily driver also

tealcherokee,
when we were young and "WRECKLESS" years ago, we used to have what is called SPRINT RACE. One of the event is for JEEP and the rules at that time was quite flexible. :laugh:

• I use to pre-race SCCA Rally Type Race when I went to school in City of Industry, CA in 1985 to 1987.
• At that time, it seems that track are mostly flat, gravel type, rocks, etc, but no significat jumps that will put you high into the air.
• Is it still the same ??
• ...
• Indonesian Jeep CJ-7, lightened & knife cut crankshaft, 6 Barrel Weber with Clifford Intake (injection was too expensive and can not have custom ecu then), Modified GARRET Turbo at 15 to 21 psi depends on track, Camshaft, polished & ported, polished and ported intake, head, Red Line at 5,500
• Suspension all Leaf Spring, additional Leaf to make it stiffer, and mostly RANCHO (that was the one widely available), lowered 2.5 inch front and rear, 15 inch wheel by 8 inch wide with low profile "all purpose DIRT and GRAVEL" rally tires.

• ...
• The track, is what used to be some sort of un-used plantation, with lost of dirt and gravel around the track. One full track course is about 1 mile in lenght and we have to complete 5 laps.
• Mostly fast straight in which you can use 3rd gear at max rpm, shift to 4th gear to ease the engine, then Full Brake (cause to slide to the oposite direction of turn), Counter Steering, Shift to 3rd or 2nd gear, full throttle, get into the turn while still sliding, then when out of the turn, usually the engine is already at its max rpm, then Up-Shift.
• No significant jumps, and if there are any, we ussually jump it at 2nd full throttle or 3rd light trottle.
• No significant dips, and if there are any, we ussually jump it at 2nd full throttle or 3rd light trottle.
• At entry of turn or exit of turn, sometimes they put big and tall jumps, which then means we have to come into almost "STOP" and ride the bumps slowly.
• ...
• believe me, that thing is as good as allmost "FLYING" right from the start..., and at that time only a couple "SEDAN" even have the turbo. Those sedan were mostly Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution. if you aksed me RIGHT NOW, to ride in that JEEP CJ again, the I would rather pay you to sit in the passanger sit, rather than me risking my life....

• There were like 4 to 5 people in Indonesia at that time that had Jeep CJ with TURBO Set-Up.
• The point, in some of skillful "RALLY DRIVER", they just makes it seems so easy to drive this car around the track. The car seems it is stick and glued to the track and slides around nicely and controllable.
• A "FULL BLOWN" Rally Car, compare to low-tech jeep ???. But yes, Those "CRAZY" jeep driver almost make it as close as those Sedan Rally Car.... and still using LEAF SPRING.
• At that time we did not need long travel. And long travel means LOTS of Body Roll. It is a Speed Sprint Rally Type.
• ...
• ...
• What it all means, IT ALL DEPENDS on the track conditions.
• If the existing race is still the same and what I have describe, then use the existing set-up with a VERY GOOD SHOCKS.
• You certainly do not need much travel, and certainly NOT THE LOOK....
• ....
• Next best is using dual shackle set-up with four-link
• Next best is using Coil Set-Up with Four-Link
• Next best is using Coil Over Set-Up with Four-Link
• ....
• Or if you just get jealous and have spare cash, then why dont you just get the COIL OVER SHOCKS, BUT WITHOUT THE COILS OVER Set-Up. That means you just the the Threaded Shocks Body only without the coils, coils devider kit, coils mounting positioner, coils stopper, etc.
• Maybe that way you will accomplish to have a Good SHOCKS, plus a shocks that can be converted and fitted with coils for some-day....
• Remember, that you still need to built your self a 4 link set-up
• ...
• So think what you will be USING THE XJ for and built the car carefully around your needs, and NOT THE LOOKS.
• As for me, I already have my Tubular Race Car, and the XJ is just a SHOW CAR Only, and to show-off to other people my capability within the Off-Road, Suspension... (did I tell you that I am KINGSHOCKS distributors in Indonesia ?)atriot:

 

[tealcherokee]

tealcherokee,
when we were young and "WRECKLESS" years ago, we used to have what is called SPRINT RACE. One of the event is for JEEP and the rules at that time was quite flexible. :laugh:

• I use to pre-race SCCA Rally Type Race when I went to school in City of Industry, CA in 1985 to 1987.
• At that time, it seems that track are mostly flat, gravel type, rocks, etc, but no significat jumps that will put you high into the air.
• Is it still the same ??
• ...
• Indonesian Jeep CJ-7, lightened & knife cut crankshaft, 6 Barrel Weber with Clifford Intake (injection was too expensive and can not have custom ecu then), Modified GARRET Turbo at 15 to 21 psi depends on track, Camshaft, polished & ported, polished and ported intake, head, Red Line at 5,500
• Suspension all Leaf Spring, additional Leaf to make it stiffer, and mostly RANCHO (that was the one widely available), lowered 2.5 inch front and rear, 15 inch wheel by 8 inch wide with low profile "all purpose DIRT and GRAVEL" rally tires.

• ...
• The track, is what used to be some sort of un-used plantation, with lost of dirt and gravel around the track. One full track course is about 1 mile in lenght and we have to complete 5 laps.
• Mostly fast straight in which you can use 3rd gear at max rpm, shift to 4th gear to ease the engine, then Full Brake (cause to slide to the oposite direction of turn), Counter Steering, Shift to 3rd or 2nd gear, full throttle, get into the turn while still sliding, then when out of the turn, usually the engine is already at its max rpm, then Up-Shift.
• No significant jumps, and if there are any, we ussually jump it at 2nd full throttle or 3rd light trottle.
• No significant dips, and if there are any, we ussually jump it at 2nd full throttle or 3rd light trottle.
• At entry of turn or exit of turn, sometimes they put big and tall jumps, which then means we have to come into almost "STOP" and ride the bumps slowly.
• ...
• believe me, that thing is as good as allmost "FLYING" right from the start..., and at that time only a couple "SEDAN" even have the turbo. Those sedan were mostly Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution. if you aksed me RIGHT NOW, to ride in that JEEP CJ again, the I would rather pay you to sit in the passanger sit, rather than me risking my life....

• There were like 4 to 5 people in Indonesia at that time that had Jeep CJ with TURBO Set-Up.
• The point, in some of skillful "RALLY DRIVER", they just makes it seems so easy to drive this car around the track. The car seems it is stick and glued to the track and slides around nicely and controllable.
• A "FULL BLOWN" Rally Car, compare to low-tech jeep ???. But yes, Those "CRAZY" jeep driver almost make it as close as those Sedan Rally Car.... and still using LEAF SPRING.
• At that time we did not need long travel. And long travel means LOTS of Body Roll. It is a Speed Sprint Rally Type.
• ...
• ...
• What it all means, IT ALL DEPENDS on the track conditions.
• If the existing race is still the same and what I have describe, then use the existing set-up with a VERY GOOD SHOCKS.
• You certainly do not need much travel, and certainly NOT THE LOOK....
• ....
• Next best is using dual shackle set-up with four-link
• Next best is using Coil Set-Up with Four-Link
• Next best is using Coil Over Set-Up with Four-Link
• ....
• Or if you just get jealous and have spare cash, then why dont you just get the COIL OVER SHOCKS, BUT WITHOUT THE COILS OVER Set-Up. That means you just the the Threaded Shocks Body only without the coils, coils devider kit, coils mounting positioner, coils stopper, etc.
• Maybe that way you will accomplish to have a Good SHOCKS, plus a shocks that can be converted and fitted with coils for some-day....
• Remember, that you still need to built your self a 4 link set-up
• ...
• So think what you will be USING THE XJ for and built the car carefully around your needs, and NOT THE LOOKS.
• As for me, I already have my Tubular Race Car, and the XJ is just a SHOW CAR Only, and to show-off to other people my capability within the Off-Road, Suspension... (did I tell you that I am KINGSHOCKS distributors in Indonesia ?)atriot:

WOW.....sounds like fun. I think for now im going to set it up spring under, and set up some bumpstops. I dont plan on flexing the jeep hard, or jumping it, can i use the shocks as my limiting straps and get away with it (the only time they should top out is on the lift). i also need to do cut the bumpstop post on the front, i think im going to shorten the bumpstop some as well (about .5" off both, giving me 1.25-1.5" compression, and about 1.25" droop (again with the some shorter shocks for limiting purposes.

im going to save my money and get a set of 3.5" travel coil overs for the rear, and im going to slowly do the 4 link (triangulated). First thing ill do is the crossmember for the uppers

 

[A Satria]

can i use the shocks as my limiting straps and get away with it (the only time they should top out is on the lift). i also need to do cut the bumpstop post on the front, i think im going to shorten the bumpstop some as well (about .5" off both, giving me 1.25-1.5" compression, and about 1.25" droop (again with the some shorter shocks for limiting purposes.

You SHOULD NEVER use "Shocks as Limiting Straps":explosion .

As a safety factor, on full compression, shocks should have a little bit of exposed shaft and on on full droop, shocks should have a little of extra lenght.
The pistons (and its parts) within the shocks body would not be capable of acting as limiting strap.

By a LIMITING Strap, or use unused seatbelf or use a STEEL WIRE if you want and cut-it to the exaxt lenght that you requirred.

Even on Coil-Over with 2.5 Race Body, I would never use it as a Full Droop Limiting Strap.

im going to save my money and get a set of 3.5" travel coil overs for the rear, and im going to slowly do the 4 link (triangulated). First thing ill do is the crossmember for the uppers

Let me know if I can be any help to you....

 

[tealcherokee]

how much will a set of the kings cost?
3.5" travel, set up stiff

 

[BrettM]

3.5" travel? aren't those called bumpstops? :laugh3:

 

[tealcherokee]

3.5" travel? aren't those called bumpstops? :laugh3:

lol....yeah, i know its different than my last jeep, going from 14" travel shocks that were too short, the 3.5"

but, this is fun also, i just like building something, i dont care what, when its all said and done, ill prolly sell this one too.

and then onto something else for a while

 

[A Satria]

how much will a set of the kings cost?
3.5" travel, set up stiff

As of Pricing, you have to get it from the US direct from KINGSCHOCK, SWAY-A-WAY, WALKER EVANS or thru Off-Road shops.

The shortest that they have is 6-inch total travel shocks.

The shocks that I am using at the moment is 8-Inch Total Travel Coil Over. This you can set-it up 4 inch compressiona and 4 inch droop.