Life is better DOORLESS =)

Not to argue, but I've done the drill thing. Worked like a charm. The pinching of the brackets is kinda the problem, but you can also shim it with a washer between the two brackets if the door needs to be adjusted up or down to hit the striker a bit better.

The whole idea is to get the 2 hinges to pivot on the bolt/pin with no slop around the pin. By drilling the holes to a uniform size, with a pin that fits snug, you'll get the door to swing on a level plane.

Ya dig? :thumbup:
 
YELLAHEEP said:
Not to argue, but I've done the drill thing. Worked like a charm. The pinching of the brackets is kinda the problem, but you can also shim it with a washer between the two brackets if the door needs to be adjusted up or down to hit the striker a bit better.

The whole idea is to get the 2 hinges to pivot on the bolt/pin with no slop around the pin. By drilling the holes to a uniform size, with a pin that fits snug, you'll get the door to swing on a level plane.

Ya dig? :thumbup:
Click to expand...

No dig. :) The door shut fine before removing the pins. The re-drilling scenario you described is for a door/hinge that is failing.

When the hinge is manufactured, the pins are pressed in. The press slides the pin into all four holes of the hinge. It's then placed under pressure to create the flat "heads" on the top and bottom of each pin.

When you replace these stock pins, gravity and friction is the only thing keeping the new pin/bolt in place. There is only a head on the top side of the pin now. So when the door opens and closes the pin is now allowed to move vertically. This vertical movement is what is causing the door not to line up on the striker.

On the 97+ units I know for sure that Jeep placed plastic or nylon inserts into the holes allowing less friction on the pin. Once those small round inserts are removed the friction is metal on metal. This alone could cause the door to be off.

If you want to try my fix from the previous post you might even try adding some nylon/plastic washer to the top and bottom of the bolt, before adding the nut. This might help you get the bolt a little tighter and still allow the door to swing.

Remember don't "german spec" torc them down. Try and do this with the door shut, through the front fender if you can. This way you are "tightening" everything down in the exact place you need it to be aligned in.
 
screw it....
man up... cut the top, trim the fenders leave the doors off and get soem big meats on it, and tell the lady to worry about her own damn jeep
 
JohnJohn said:
No dig. :) The door shut fine before removing the pins. The re-drilling scenario you described is for a door/hinge that is failing.
Click to expand...


28802780_3f6b480220.jpg




:D :thumbup:
 
:doh:


:twak: .............JohnJohn & yella put on the sumo suits and go beat each other up in someone else's thread, ya wankers! :D




My .02 cents.............if you want doorless by a CJ/YJ/TJ/JK, done did it already a lot of fun, XJ doorless is spooky scary how much the body flexes & twists...........................
 
i did this "mod" and i just unbolted the door from the hinge, cut the bottom half of the doorside hinge off, then tacked the pins onto the top half of the hinge. I used the stock pins, and i have absolutely no problems whatsoever with doors closing or not.

I did make sure, that when i bolted the doorside hinge back on to get the spacers & hinge lined up perfectly with the paint how it was before.
 
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