Lets talk custom axles

they look pretty cool, but they've been talking about them for a while and nothing more is showing up, so I wouldn't hold your breath. It would probably still be cheaper to adapt volvo or mog outers.

a picture that shows the Team Purple portals well, not for those on dialup: http://www.teampurple.net/IMG_0203.JPG
 
Lincoln said:
1. Centerline of the tubes up.
2. Verticle center of the diff to the pinion. Offset of the pinion I guess. Is my assuption correct that it is offset to the passenger side in the rear and drives side for a front app?

I'm wondering if it wouldn't be worth the extra $$ to use one in front with the 60 knuckles. I could push the housing towards the center and still keep the driveline out of the header. That could free up a little more room for the 60 knuckles.
Click to expand...

It's going to be difficult to get accurate measurements, I'm thinking a couple of photos might be more useful. I'll see what I can do tonight.
You are correct on the offset.

With the True Hi9 you could probably center the 3rd more than most, but I don't think this solves the 60 problem, assuming your goal is to keep the 60 close to stock width. The problem isn't coil clearance between the inner C & the Diff., the problem is that under 63" (I think), the inner C's will force the your coils inward.

Paul
 
Paul S said:
the problem is that under 63" (I think), the inner C's will force the your coils inward.

Paul
Click to expand...

I was hoping to set the coil up on the knuckle somewhat. It would be tight, but I like it tight.
 
Paul S said:
It's going to be difficult to get accurate measurements, I'm thinking a couple of photos might be more useful. I'll see what I can do tonight.
You are correct on the offset.
Paul
Click to expand...

Not to worried about accurate. Just round to the nearest 1/2". I'm guessing 1.5" higher than a 30 or 44, or around there.
 
Lincoln said:
Not to worried about accurate. Just round to the nearest 1/2".
Click to expand...

Yeah....this is all just a pipe dream for Lincoln anyway. He talks and talks (types and types), and then goes hunting.

Mental masterbation..... :moon:






:D
 
Danno said:
I have a 9" center section mated to a Mog 404 portal axle sitting in my garage. It's roughed (needs a bit more welding) together and really just needs the custom axles made for it. I had a Currie HP 9" for it and they told me it would have to be used as a low pinion due to the portal rotation. I've driven myself crazy trying to figure out if that is correct and just how the rotation goes. Anybody have experience here? Do you know anybody who can do custom axles?
The reason for going 9" center section with an XJ is cuz the Mog pinion is extremely loonnnnng! 18" as I recall. I ended up making a custom rear NASCAR floater rear axle and used the Currie HP in that.

Also I have fit 16.5" rims to stock Mog 404 drums. That is the bare minimum. They do fit but it's tighter than the proverbial gnat's *&#@*!!!

I have seen and coresponded with a fellow who put stock Mog axles under an XJ without moving the front pinion over. He used a two piece (actually two drive shafts) drive shaft(s) with a pillow block bearing to seperate the pieces. He said it worked pretty good.
Click to expand...
It is correct,you need low pinion chunks to make them spin the right direction.There is a place by us that does them for alot of the buggies.There name is Skunkworks,I dont have any other info on them other than they are in Pa,outside of Philly I think.
 
chassis_2.jpg
"Lightweight 60 Knuckles - Laser cut lightweight 60 knuckles are the ticket for true off-road performance. The Spidertrax Lightweight 60 Knuckles are significantly smaller, lighter, and more durable then OEM or cast Dana 60 knuckles. A ball and race mounting system with two 3/4" bolts is used for assembling the knuckles. Serviceability is as easy as removing two bolts! Works with any axle using Dana type 60 u-joints."That was quoted from Spidertrax website.These are very trick.These outers with a True Hi9 center would be awesome!!!I dont think they are out yet but I'd sign up for them before anything else.
 
Not to change the subject too much, magoo mentioned the 9". My questions relate to a daily driver for the most part. Running a Currie high clearance (shaved) in a rear application would it be prudent to add an oil cooler? I know there are several shaved pumpkins running in the front w/o lock out hubs that don't have an issue. The front would not have the load even though it would still be rotating. The pump would be mounted above the axle below the cargo area, as well as the radiator. I don't think it would require a high rate pump such as you would want for engine lubrication, maybe less than a gallon per minute. Too bad an electric fuel pump would prolly die from the temp. of the oil and the high viscosity, they are quite a bit cheaper.
The lines would have to enter from as near the top as possable to avoid getting ripped off. Power for the pump would be via a relay off of the fuel pump circiut since it already back there.
Anyway, before I go on and on here, am I just over thinking things (AGAIN). Or, should I get serious about how to hook all this up, seeng as how the reallity of the matter is close at hand?
I seem to see where more and more people are trimming the snot out of thier housings, It has to be effecting the temp. and oil life and ultimatly the life of the hard parts. Has anybody played around with an external pump and cooler?

TIM
 
Last edited:
Bent said:
Not to change the subject too much, magoo mentioned the 9". My questions relate to a daily driver for the most part. Running a Currie high clearance (shaved) in a rear application would it be prudent to add an oil cooler? I know there are several shaved pumpkins running in the front w/o lock out hubs that don't have an issue. The front would not have the load even though it would still be rotating. The pump would be mounted above the axle below the cargo area, as well as the radiator. I don't think it would require a high rate pump such as you would want for engine lubrication, maybe less than a gallon per minute. Too bad an electric fuel pump would prolly die from the temp. of the oil and the high viscosity, they are quite a bit cheaper.
The lines would have to enter from as near the top as possable to avoid getting ripped off. Power for the pump would be via a relay off of the fuel pump circiut since it already back there.
Anyway, before I go on and on here, am I just over thinking things (AGAIN). Or, should I get serious about how to hook all this up, seeng as how the reallity of the matter is close at hand?
I seem to see where more and more people are trimming the snot out of thier housings, It has to be effecting the temp. and oil life and ultimatly the life of the hard parts. Has anybody played around with an external pump and cooler?

TIM
Click to expand...
personally, I think you're overthinking it. I have a Toy 8" that I chopped the bottom off of and replaced with 1/4" plate within an 1/8" of the ring gear. I put the truck on a downslope when I fill the diff so it slightly overfills. I think it's good enough, 10,000 miles so far.
 
BrettM said:
personally, I think you're overthinking it.
Click to expand...

Yea, :twak: that happens.


TIM
 
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