lets talk about higher degree steering

[Fullsizexj]

I just got back from competing in the East Coast Put up or Shut up and noticed I was really limited by my steering. I am running a reverse cut king pin Dana 60 and a 8" ram, I am thinking about going to a 9" or 10" ram to get more steering out of it, Once I get it back into the shop. I plan to see how much angle I can get out of my knuckles without binding the ujoints, Has anyone else played with this yet ?

 

[Phil]

On west coast dry rocks, I think what most competitors do is get a twin-stick transfer case like an Atlas or a Dana 300 and set up a cutting brake system so they can stop one or both rear tires. Then you can put it in front wheel drive, brake the rear tire on the side you want to turn towards, and steer. I've heard putting a big rock in front of the braked tire helps, too.

 

[XJ_ranger]

I've heard putting a big rock in front of the braked tire helps, too.

I've heard this too, but have yet to have someone move a big rock there to try it out... :dunno:

 

[Goatman]

:laugh:





Rich, what front axles and joints are you running? My steering is pretty sharp, worked a lot to get it that way.

 

[Fullsizexj]

35 spline yukons and stock joints for now but I will probably get CTM's if I do this, I already have twinsticks and cutting brakes but when you are on a pile of rocks, A front dig is not always a good thing to try

 

[Ghost]

Are you running a stock xj drop arm with a high steer arm? if so is your pitman arm long enough? I have the kingpin front with a high steer arm for the drag link. Tierod is mounted between the two factory holes but on top. Since it is mounted on the outter most hole of the highsteer arm I loose turning radius. The pitman arm I need is too pricey atm and the wagoneer one I have that works is not a drop arm so it hits my hydro lines. So I sacrafice tight steering till I can get the other things I'm working on worked out. Just means I back up on tight turns atm.

 

[Fullsizexj]

Full Hydro, backing up is not something you want to do when competeing between cones.
I just need to get it into the shop and see how much more ram length I can get away with without putting too much bind on the ujoints, right now I have an 8" so if I went to a 9", i would get 1/2" more throw in each direction and a 10' would give me an inch more each way, just need to find out by checking how much I can get away with and then do it

 

[Sponge Bob]

Stock dana 30 297 joints bind at 42 degrees. castor will also affect steering less is better
for more steering

 

[Fullsizexj]

who is using a dana 30 we are talking abot a dana 60 with kingpins

 

[Sponge Bob]

just giving an idea of how much till they bind. sorry no extra 60's laying around to measure. but they should bind at less than a 30 approx 2or3 degrees

 

[foxwar71]

IIRC I measured something like high 30's, maybe 40* on my stock ford knuckles with the steering stops in stock position on my 60.

How about something like Branik offers? Mill out some of the yoke on the shafts for some extra degrees.


http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=582411
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=636579&highlight=50+degrees

 

[Fullsizexj]

I am gonna wait till I can get it back into my shop and see what is possible with what I have now and decide what to do from there, I know there is room to get more steering out of it, it is just a matter of how much more at this point, heck, I have an extra 35 spline d-60 rear sitting in the shop, might just build a rear steer and call it good. Decesions decisions LOL

 

[AZXJ]

Richard,

An OEM style 60 knuckle can turn only 38°.

Have you looked into Spidertrax 50 degree setups ?

http://www.spidertrax.com/3-1-2-Housing-Ends


http://www.spidertrax.com/Pro-Series-60-Knuckle

Take care
Dave

 

[Fullsizexj]

Dang, did ya see the price on them things, by the time you get those, the unitt bearings, axleshafts and brakes and such, you could almost buy a complete built axle

 

[AZXJ]

You said you wanted more steering You didn't list the budget.. How about Bobby Long's CV's ?

 

[Goatman]

You have to custom drill the hole where the drag link attaches to the knuckle, or if you have a single ended ram and full hydro. If you have a double ended ram then custom drill the holes on both knuckles. The distance from the link or ram attachment point to the ball joint or king pin center, compared to the ram length or pitman arm throw, is what determines how tight you can turn. Drill the holes yourself to maximize the throw you have, then grind on the inside of the axle yokes to make sure the axles don't bind. I run Tera60 knuckles, Alloy USA chromo inners and CTM 300m outers and CTM joints, and I've ground quite a bit off the inside of the axle yokes. I got high steer arms with no holes so I could drill them myself. My steering link distance to the ball joint is less than 6".

 

[Fullsizexj]

I have the poisin Spyder High steer arms with 3 holes, I am using the center hole now, I do not have the clearance to use the hole closer to the knuckle so I will have to make up extra throw with a longer ram, I just gotta do some checking to see how much longer a ram I can get away with is all

 

[Goatman]

Weld up the holes in the arm and drill new ones where you want them. Cheaper than a new ram if you want to save a few bucks. I did that on one set of arms that I had, I think I'm on my 3rd set of arms.

 

[Fullsizexj]

I will most likely just get another ram, mine has a very small drip at the shaft seal now anyways and I use the Surplus city ones so they are not all that expensive anyways