let this be THE peguot to AX-15 swap thread

For technical accuracy, JeProvo's ax-15 was a 1991, stolen from Sequioa. :)
 
Dangerous said:
Okay question for ya! Probably seems silly to most.. but without a doubt.. someone else is probably thinking/wondering the same thing.

This Reverse Lamp Switch... the Weatherpack ... is that what i call it when i go to the parts store and try to explain it? Don't want the guys to look at me with an all screwed up face... "WHAT!?" hee hee

Jeprovo, you wouldn't happen to still have the packaging for what you ended up with would you ... maybe toss me a part number, and brand/make? Or whatever is written on the box?
Click to expand...

Weatherpack is the technical name for the connector, Delphi are the people who came up with it. You can find it in most locals that carry Motormite's HELP! line of parts without any trouble at all.
 
5-90 said:
So, the pilot is the same size on the 1993? That argues heavily in favour of the "internal slave" (AX-15i) pilot being the same size as the BA-10/5 pilot, and the rear crankshaft dimensions being the same
Click to expand...

Actually, it was a 91, as Cal points out. The pilot's were the exact same size, so I think that you're conclusion is probably correct. The internal slave AX-15 and BA-10/5 have the same rear crank dims and pilot shaft dims.

5-90 said:
That's not really an "inspection plate" - more of a "shim." I'm not really sure what it's there for, but I'm fairly sure it's needed.
Click to expand...

I think that it's just a debris shield to keep the flywheel clutch area free from large debris.

5-90 said:
However, if you've got the four bellhousing screws in place, it's not going anywhere. The two upper screws you're talking about (about 1:30 and 10:30 on the bell, right?)...
Click to expand...

All the structural bolts are there, the self tappers are what I was talking about. I figured that they were non-critical, but you don't know if you don't ask. :)
Thanks for the help.
 
Hey, i just figured i'd give an update as to what i did with my Swap. In this thread i had posted a few pics and on the Peugot Pic i had some Vaccum hoses (Green) on the Transfer Case, that even 5-90 said he didn't know what i'd have to do to deal with that. Well, of course the Splines on the input shafts are different between the Peugot and AX15, so i can't just switch them. And the Transfer case that came on my AX15... well, it didn't have the Plugs... basically, it was the wrong Transfer case. SO! what i did was took out the Input Shaft from the AX15 Transfer Case and switched it into my original Transfer Case... and i'm good to go now!

Figured this note may come in handy eventually!
 
Okay, so i FINALLY got all this stuff switched in and all is hooked up. Ya, took a while... everything is based on Time and money... i have lots of time... no money! Problems with being (newly) self employed.

To refresh folks' memory. I'm switching out a Peugeot tranny in a 1988 for an AX/15 from a 92.

Anyway, when i went to start it up... nothing. Checked the battery, and its at full charge... thinking it was dead i put a charger on it... it shows full charge. Took the starter back out and had a look... all looks good there. So could it be the Crank Position Sensor? Think i read on this thread that if something was up with it, it wouldn't even start. I ended up using the Sensor from the '88, because the plug issue. Thinking maybe giving the '92 sensor a go? Need to find it though... can't recall if the plug was different.. probably, otherwise i would have used it.

So why won't it Start? ... i didn't touch ANYTHING else! Could it just be the Crank Sensor? Anything else i should look into?

Thanks
 
OH and,.... some production notes.

The reverse light switch... i just spliced the lines to the original plug? Figured the worst thing that would happen is that my reverse light just wouldn't work?

I did use my 88 drive shaft rear, and Crossmember. I like the 88 crossmember... nice and beefy. Crossmember does sit farther back a good couple inches. Good thing there were holes already in the frame on the drivers side. Passenger side had one, and the back bolt hole i had to drill.

I had to cut some slits in the floor where the shifter goes in. It sits farther back as well, and i couldn't get at the back bolts.... well its just a longer base. Shifter actually sits in the proper spot, and hits nothing, so thats why i just cut slits to access the shifter to tranny bolts.
 
still a newbie too but the sensor your talking about i believe is called the (CPS) crankshaft position sensor. If your are looking toward the front of the jeep from the back of the tranny its about 10 or 11 o'clock position make sure you put that back in.
BUT before you check that check the starter make sure its getting power might have came loose during the swap
to all the older guy's feel free to correct me if i am leading him in the wrong direction
 
Critical difference - are we diagnosing a "No Crank" problem, or a "Crank, No Start" problem? Different animals.

If it's a "Crank, No Start" I'd suspect the CKP. It's often forgotten, omitted, or just plain screwed up during a transmission swap.

If it's a "No Crank," it's not the CKP - the engine will crank without it. Check the starter motor relay (metal box in front of the other four, behind the battery,) and the starter motor solenoid and starter motor wiring.
 
Grounds hooked up properly?

If it doesnt crank then I would get a set of jumper cables and run juice to the starter to rule that out.If that wakes the starter up then I would look into the grounds and/or ignition switch.Or the starter relay.....as already mentioned.

I would look into the cps if it cranks but doesnt fire.........
 
Ya, i just wasn't sure what happens with the Crank Position Sensor when its not working.. what actually happens? Does It try starting but just not turn over?

Because my issue is that NOTHING happens. I hear a click... then thats it. Then if i try turning it over again right after... i get Nothing... not even a click. I tested the starter and it works. Took it out... attached a set of jumpers cables to my battery (which is at full charge, so it isn't that)... then one to the Power Post on the Starter (and grounded it). Touched both posts with a screw driver and away she went. I'd cleaned off the wire ends that attach to the starter... sanded them to make sure they were clean then re-attached, and still got nothing.

I wasn't even IN this area (starter)... i was swapping a damn transmission! hee hee Woulda' been nice to have gotten in the truck after it was all back together and it JUST STARTED! Frick... fix an issue... and then get something completely new! Go figure! Why can't it allll just go according to PLAN!

I'd rather break it on a trail then have it break when its just SITTING THERE! hahahaha
 
With the CPS/CKP not working the engine will crank and crank healthily but will never start. Further, the ECU will never signal ignition, so you will get no spark if you check that.

Sounds like that's not your issue (at least not yet, one thing at a time!) - Glad you got it figured out!
 
SHE'S Runningggg! ... Wahoooo!

What it ended up being... Battery Terminals (clamps). I replaced those and she started up right away. I got someone to crank the engine while i had a look. Little tuft of Smoke coming from the terminal was a pretty good sign!

So getting back to actual topic of this thread. I'll add a few production notes... i remember someone else saying a couple of these, so i'll just confirm it.... Now that the AX/15 is in (my 88 Cherokee... with a '92 engine).

I did in fact use my original '88 crossmember, but it does sit back a good couple of inches. Drivers side there were holes to use, but the passenger side only one. Have to drill in for the second (back) bolt.

Driveshafts i did use as well.

Where the shifter goes through the floor, i too had to open up the hole in the floor. Bascially i just cut slits so i could access the back bolts on the shifter. Its a little longer then the one on the Peugeot... different shape completely. But the shifter sits perfectly and doesn't hit anything.

I used the Flywheel i had on there already, along with the Crank Sensor from the Peugot. Clutches for all these years are the same... so we're good there... this AX/15 is from a '92, to refresh your memory).

My back up light i just spliced the lines... i don't think it works! hee hee (i'll live).

I think thats basically it... or i'm remembering at the moment.

Thanks again for all your guys' help! It is REALLY appreciated!

Danni
 
The cluch friction didn't change 1987-2001, just the clutch hydaulics (and the pilot bushing/bearing, natch.)

Yes, you have to use the RENIX flywheel and CKP - else it will not start (the HO stuff isn't compatible with RENIX. However, the CKP location is the same.)

Dangerous, sounds like the factory missed drilling a hole in a framerail for you - on my 88, all four holes were present (two had the nutserts rusted out. Easy fix - cut an access hole in the side, paint the cut edges, and then use a nut and fender washer to secure the crossmember. Problem solved - and it's stronger anyhow.)

And yes, you have to extend the hole in the transmission tunnel to the rear a couple of inches or so - I think I mentioned. Also easy to do.
 
I'm looking for some confirmation on my transfer case input. I just picked up an ax15 tonight, and it has a 23 spline output. the seller said it was from a 91 XJ. The transfer case i want to use is a 231 from a 94 2.5liter, it has a 21 spline input.

I think i need a 23 spline, short, wide bearing, early cut input gear. does this sound right??

This is all going behind the 4.0 in my 87, i'll also be using the axles from the 94, so no worries about the vacuum setup.


edit: also, are there any good "how to's" for this input shaft? i haven't come across one yet.
 
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I don't know if anyone is still around, I see this is a thread that was started a long time ago, but maybe!

I have an 89 YJ with a 258 4.2L 6 cyl and the ba-10. The slave was going out and it eventually locked into second gear on me and I never got it out. So, I found a good deal on an AX-15 from a 92 Cherokee that was mated to a 4.0.(Had already planned on swapping for an ax-15 anyway) Of course this has an internal slave, but maybe that isn't too terrible of a thing for now. The guy sent me the shifter and boots as well as the entire clutch assembly. My question is is there any difference in an AX-15 from a cherokee(XJ) and an AX-15 from the same year in a YJ? I was under the impression that an ax-15 is an ax-15, so no difference, right? That being said, will I be able to use the pilot from the cherokee? or will the inside diameter be an issue? What about the flywheel? Is there anything I can do to clean them up a little? How about the slave, will my current line from the master connect to the 92 AX-15's slave? or will I need to get a special adapter? How about the crossmember? Just a matter of drilling different holes? I've also seen posts of guys having to move their transmission mounts, but haven't been able to determine who has to do this and who doesn't? Finally, while I'm waiting for my 23 spline shaft for my T/C is there anything I can do to the new to me ax-15 to get it ready? I'm picking up new fluid for it today, but can I clean it with anything, like the exterior and even the interior of the bell housing? I know there are seals involved so I want to be careful.

thanks for any response!
 
Last edited:
monkeyhouse said:
I don't know if anyone is still around, I see this is a thread that was started a long time ago, but maybe!

I have an 89 YJ with a 258 4.2L 6 cyl and the ba-10. The slave was going out and it eventually locked into second gear on me and I never got it out. So, I found a good deal on an AX-15 from a 92 Cherokee that was mated to a 4.0.(Had already planned on swapping for an ax-15 anyway) Of course this has an internal slave, but maybe that isn't too terrible of a thing for now. The guy sent me the shifter and boots as well as the entire clutch assembly. My question is is there any difference in an AX-15 from a cherokee(XJ) and an AX-15 from the same year in a YJ? I was under the impression that an ax-15 is an ax-15, so no difference, right? That being said, will I be able to use the pilot from the cherokee? or will the inside diameter be an issue? What about the flywheel? Is there anything I can do to clean them up a little? How about the slave, will my current line from the master connect to the 92 AX-15's slave? or will I need to get a special adapter? How about the crossmember? Just a matter of drilling different holes? I've also seen posts of guys having to move their transmission mounts, but haven't been able to determine who has to do this and who doesn't? Finally, while I'm waiting for my 23 spline shaft for my T/C is there anything I can do to the new to me ax-15 to get it ready? I'm picking up new fluid for it today, but can I clean it with anything, like the exterior and even the interior of the bell housing? I know there are seals involved so I want to be careful.

thanks for any response!
Click to expand...

You can use the very same hydraulics - just get the clutch kit for the BA-10 (the AX-15i uses some funky quick-connect to hook up the slave, the BA-10 uses a 1/4" SAE flare. I like the flare better anyhow. The AX-15i can use the BA-10 pilot bearing assembly, no sweat.)

This will probably simplify the rest of the job - from what I've been able to find so far, the AX-15i uses the same pilot OD as the BA-10/5, and it didn't get larger until the AX-15e came out in 1994.

The studs on the AX-15 mount cushion will drop into the same holes as the BA-10, so that's no trouble. Same crossmember (but I think I did have to spin mine end-for-end, since the offset was different. Problem solved.)

Clean it with your favourite degreaser.

You'll probably have to open up the shifter hole in the transmission tunnel, since the AX-15 shift tower is farther aft than the BA-10 shift tower. You'll only need a couple of inches - but failure to do so will lock you out of 2/4/R!

The only real difference between the AX-15 in the XJ/MJ/ZJ and the AX-15 in the YJ/TJ is in the transfer case adapter housing - the YJ/TJ has the 'case clocked flatter up against the belly. You won't have any clearance problems with the body (like you would going the other way,) but it will reduce ground clearance by a couple of inches, and can affect your breakover angle (I don't know if this is a problem for you or not.) Correct eventually by swapping with someone taking a YJ/TJ box to put in an MJ/XJ, or just get the adapter housing yerself from a transmission shop (may be spendy. If you get the adapter later and want to put the one you're replacing to good use, you can submit it for the Parts Exchange - I'm trying to make small and goofy parts available to everyone who needs them.)

Clean the transmission, then just replace the seals afterwards. No point in /not/ doing it, since you've got it out anyhow, right?
 
5-90 said:
You can use the very same hydraulics - just get the clutch kit for the BA-10 (the AX-15i uses some funky quick-connect to hook up the slave, the BA-10 uses a 1/4" SAE flare. I like the flare better anyhow. The AX-15i can use the BA-10 T/O bearing assembly, no sweat.)

This will probably simplify the rest of the job - from what I've been able to find so far, the AX-15i uses the same pilot OD as the BA-10/5, and it didn't get larger until the AX-15e came out in 1994.

The studs on the AX-15 mount cushion will drop into the same holes as the BA-10, so that's no trouble. Same crossmember (but I think I did have to spin mine end-for-end, since the offset was different. Problem solved.)

Clean it with your favourite degreaser.

You'll probably have to open up the shifter hole in the transmission tunnel, since the AX-15 shift tower is farther aft than the BA-10 shift tower. You'll only need a couple of inches - but failure to do so will lock you out of 2/4/R!

The only real difference between the AX-15 in the XJ/MJ/ZJ and the AX-15 in the YJ/TJ is in the transfer case adapter housing - the YJ/TJ has the 'case clocked flatter up against the belly. You won't have any clearance problems with the body (like you would going the other way,) but it will reduce ground clearance by a couple of inches, and can affect your breakover angle (I don't know if this is a problem for you or not.) Correct eventually by swapping with someone taking a YJ/TJ box to put in an MJ/XJ, or just get the adapter housing yerself from a transmission shop (may be spendy. If you get the adapter later and want to put the one you're replacing to good use, you can submit it for the Parts Exchange - I'm trying to make small and goofy parts available to everyone who needs them.)

Clean the transmission, then just replace the seals afterwards. No point in /not/ doing it, since you've got it out anyhow, right?
Click to expand...
 
5-90 said:
You can use the very same hydraulics - just get the clutch kit for the BA-10 (the AX-15i uses some funky quick-connect to hook up the slave, the BA-10 uses a 1/4" SAE flare. I like the flare better anyhow. The AX-15i can use the BA-10 pilot bearing assembly, no sweat.)

This will probably simplify the rest of the job - from what I've been able to find so far, the AX-15i uses the same pilot OD as the BA-10/5, and it didn't get larger until the AX-15e came out in 1994.

The studs on the AX-15 mount cushion will drop into the same holes as the BA-10, so that's no trouble. Same crossmember (but I think I did have to spin mine end-for-end, since the offset was different. Problem solved.)

Clean it with your favourite degreaser.

You'll probably have to open up the shifter hole in the transmission tunnel, since the AX-15 shift tower is farther aft than the BA-10 shift tower. You'll only need a couple of inches - but failure to do so will lock you out of 2/4/R!

The only real difference between the AX-15 in the XJ/MJ/ZJ and the AX-15 in the YJ/TJ is in the transfer case adapter housing - the YJ/TJ has the 'case clocked flatter up against the belly. You won't have any clearance problems with the body (like you would going the other way,) but it will reduce ground clearance by a couple of inches, and can affect your breakover angle (I don't know if this is a problem for you or not.) Correct eventually by swapping with someone taking a YJ/TJ box to put in an MJ/XJ, or just get the adapter housing yerself from a transmission shop (may be spendy. If you get the adapter later and want to put the one you're replacing to good use, you can submit it for the Parts Exchange - I'm trying to make small and goofy parts available to everyone who needs them.)

Clean the transmission, then just replace the seals afterwards. No point in /not/ doing it, since you've got it out anyhow, right?
Click to expand...

Wow, thanks for that answer. That's the most information anyone has given me, I really appreciate that.

Clearance is an issue in the winter, I have to travel on some really rutty roads and they don't get plowed, so I already bottom out alot, lol. but there's no snow on the ground now.

I have read where some guys had to make the hole bigger, no biggie there.

I'll have to look into breakover angle, I haven't heard of that until now.

What's the clutch kit, did a little searching and haven't seen anything yet, but a rebuild kit for the master. Do you mean the slave master combo? I thought they only made those for the external slave setups.

I did see a post somewhere about the parts exchange, I went to the site and saved a shortcut, very cool!
 
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