Leaf Spring Replacement problem

[MattAlpha]

I've got a new set of fiberglass leaf springs and Prothene bushings that I'm attempting to install. The only problem is that three of the shackel bolts don't seem to wanta leave. The first one (upper shackle bolt on the driver's side that goes into the frame) I got out without too much difficulty (after I overpowered the loctite with a breaker bar). The others I was able to get out to the point that the threads were not longer in the frame, but the bushing and its metla sleeve would turn with the bolt but the bolt won't come out any further.
If it didn't bolt into the frame I'd use something to push it through, but that's not possible. So I've tries to pry them out with no success. I don't have a plasma cutter or anything that cool to cut them out.
Does anyone have any ideas?
Thanks,
Matt

PS: I have pics to post of them, but I can't figure out how to put them into this window.

 

[Fergie]

I'm sorry, but fiberglass springs?

Please expand on this.

Fergie

 

[MattAlpha]

I had a set of fiberglass springs made by Flex-A-Form.
They're custom made and state that their memory will never weaken.
So I decided to go with them. I've got to tow a trailer to CA in a month. They set me back $400 (though I was charged $800 but that is being worked-out) .
I was tired of my old rusting "Heavy-duty" OEM leaf springs that allowed my axel bumpers to get way too-much practice.
They were worn-out and needed to go.

-Matt

 

[JeepSpeed]

Sorry to hijack, but don't they also weigh a bit less than OEM? And does that count as unsprung weight? I've heard of these, and became interested, but no one has brought them up for a while.

 

[MattAlpha]

They're a little less than half the normal leaf springs' weight.

I spoke to two of my other friends and they both told me they'd had the same problem as the one I'm having now before as well. They both told me that I'd have to torch them off. I'd prefer not to do that. Just a bit afraid with the gas tank so close is all.

Any suggestions?

 

[theschwarz1]

Dude, I hate to piggyback, but I am in the SAME EXACT position as you. I had the drivers side come out without too much difficulty but the front bolt on the passengers side wont come out. I have unscreweed it out about an inch and now it wont come out. THe bushing and metal sleeve just turn and binmd with it. I dont wanna have to cut it either.
I did cut the one driver side rear bolt because I have a hitch reciever in the way. I bought a new blot for that. But cutting them with a metal blade on a sawzaw takes forever and goes through blades like crazy!
Can anyone help us?

 

[XJ_ranger]

pm nhrocker

he tried just about every trick in the book to remove his leaves...
and knows them all...

-Ranger

 

[MattAlpha]

I've got around cutting the lower rear shackle bolt (because I have a hitch too) by removing the upper shackle bolt. The one on the dirver's side came out but the passenger one will not.

This is a huge annoyance and my wife is getting pist at me. Go figure she doesn't want me to use her Grand Cherokee, or have to cart my butt around.
LOL

 

[theschwarz1]

well I broke down and cut out the bolt....now I am on my way to finishing up the rear and starting thr front

 

[MattAlpha]

A friend of mine who has done this before is going to help me cut them out with a torch.

Does anyone know if there is any dangers due to my gas tank being so close. It doesn't leak, and I have it on jack stands in my driveway open to the air. I think it should be fine, I'm just wandering and a bit hesitant though. The tank is full, and I don't want to drain it.

 

[theschwarz1]

how about a sawzall ??? Takes longer but more safe

 

[aardvark4x4]

I Had this problem, the bolt rusts into the inner metal sleeve in the bush and the sleeve just spins in the rubber. I cut the spring eye off the bush with a 4" cutting disc, then did the same with the outer bush casing and the rubber (smelly and smoky!) This exposes the inner sleeve which is rolled from flat, so has a split in it which you can open up enough to free off the bolt.

 

[JeepSpeed]

Does anyone know if there is any dangers due to my gas tank being so close. It doesn't leak, and I have it on jack stands in my driveway open to the air. I think it should be fine, I'm just wandering and a bit hesitant though. The tank is full, and I don't want to drain it.

I doubt it will be a problem, but just to be safe, put something in front of the tank to protect it. Just tape some sheet metal or anything u have on hand to the tank in front of where you'll be cutting.

 

[PapaPump]

mmm fiberglass springs. my buddy had one on his corvette, saved a lot of weight from the old steel pack. I saw that Rancho had a fiberglass kit for YJs, and it sparked my interest again. yours were a complete custom job huh? $400 that doesn't sound bad for custom springs at all. the OMEs are $350, so I would be willing to pay the extra. I wonder if there is enough demand for serial production? Maybe rancho will extend it's fiberglass spring line also. my idea of an ideal pack would be to have a steel main leaf and a fiberglass leaf for the main support of the vehicle. the main leaf would be simply for bolting to the shackle and hanger, and skid protection. has anyone seen this setup or tried it?

 

[MattAlpha]

I used a Sazsaw yesterday to cut out the forward bolt on the driver’s side and I was able to get that side's leaf spring out. Total pain in the butt. I burnt up five blades (they stated that they could cut up to 3/8 thick steel, but the inner metal sleeve just chews up the blades) but at least one side is out. The Stealership got me on the bolts, $7.68 a piece and of coarse they had to be ordered. I also wanted to get a new set of bushings for the pivot joint that joins the leaf's bracket plate to the rear stabilizer bar, but of course you can't order just the bushings you have to order the entire bracket (complete with bushings) for $47 a piece and they had them in stock. Go figure.

A note on the fiberglass springs. They are a solid unit (no layers, like the construction of the standard steel leaf springs) and came complete with polyurethane bushings installed. Which I was surprised about since it wasn't addressed on the website about even coming with bushings. I was a bit disappointed because I had bought the "Total set" from Prothane, which wasn't the total kit. Does anyone know where I can get the bushings for my stabilizer bar. The only ones I've seen is replacement kits for the stabilizer bars themselves that come with the bushings.

Thanks,
Matt

 

[rsalemi]

energy suspension makes greasable sway bar bushings - Jegs and Summit sell them. 5/8" on the rear bar and whatever (need to measure) on the front.

 

[MattAlpha]

I was hoping that I could pick up a set of poly bushing that would only require the initial super poly grease at install (or down the line after some hard off roading).
Is this what you mean by greasing or are they like the tie-rods bushing in the front end that need greased every couple of months?

 

[rsalemi]

The Energy Suspension sway bar bushings have grease fittings on them; like tir rods, etc.

 

[PapaPump]

does anyone run addco bars? they would come with new urethane right?

 

[MattAlpha]

I finshed the replacement five days ago.

The fiberglass springs work great, there is an incredible difference in strength (from my worn out ones). They were very sweaky for the first two days and seem to have broken in now. The Jeep vibrates between 50 to 65 mph (which I think may be a tire balancing problem) and the overall ride is much stiffer (due to the new springs and the bushings).

I figured out the problem with removing the bolts from the OEM (rubber) bushings. Jeep uses a flat cut portion of steel and then rolls it to make the inner sleeve (of which the bolt goes into) instead of a forged cylinder (such as higher end bushings utilize). After time is able to corrode the smooth area of the bolt (which is in this inner metal sleeve) the rubber bushing continues to compress the inner sleeve in onto the bolt. Eventually the diameter of the smooth area of the bolt is smaller than the bolts windings. So when you go to remove the bolt from the bushing, the bolt will only come out as far a the windings can force it out as they turn through the nut. So once the windings are through the nut of the bolt, the bolt won't come out any further. Now your stuck cutting the bolt out to remove it.

One tip I have for cutting the bolt out is to use a wedge to force the bushing to one side of the housing so that you can expose the bolt alone so you don't have to cut through the inner sleeve as well. The bolts are made of a softer steel and the inner sleeve is much stronger. I went through 6 sazsaw blades (that were supposed to be able to cut through 3/8 thick steel) on one complete cut going through the inner sleeve and bolt. When I figured out that I could use a wedge so that I only had to cut through the bolt I use two blades to complete the remaining five cuts.