Klune-V gear reduction unit/dual t-cases--is there a need???

CRASH said:
Yeah, I did the install.

Sean mentioned you may need an ARB wiring harness? I have one that I'll sell you for half of the $80 retail price. It includes everything needed to wire two ARB's and a compressor, except the swithches and solenoids. New in box, $40.

URF is where you find it.

CRASH

I just bought the wiring harness from West Coast Diff in Rancho for $23 + switches, switch covers, air line fittings, etc for $63 out the door. I didn't know you had 1 for sale. I'm still working on getting the arb hooked up. Does Stoney have to get his arb hooked up too? It is a pain, but also has many options as to where you want to mount the switches, comp, etc so I can see where customers even if they cannot install the actual arb into the axle, do the air lines, electronics, switches, mounting the comp etc.
Troy
 
The easiest way to install an ARB is to ditch all the electronic stuff altogether.

It is the weak link in an otherwise bullet-proof system.

Pneumatic switches are the way to go.

CRASH
 
CRASH said:
The easiest way to install an ARB is to ditch all the electronic stuff altogether.

It is the weak link in an otherwise bullet-proof system.

Pneumatic switches are the way to go.

CRASH

I'll have to see how it goes. I never had a locker, let alone an arb. At least I have a detroit out back that is pretty much bullet proof in the dana 44 with 35's. After my 6 yrs or so with Jeeps, I finally have a rig that has lockers, big lift, 35" mtrs, and of course a warn winch. I'm getting spoiled. :rtm:
Troy
 
CRASH said:
The easiest way to install an ARB is to ditch all the electronic stuff altogether.

It is the weak link in an otherwise bullet-proof system.

Pneumatic switches are the way to go.

CRASH

So where is URF headquarters??? I would like to come by and see it. What hrs are you open over there?
 
ChuckD said:
Ya, I want to know whent he next tour is. I have a cub scout group and a sixth grade class needing a place to go on a field trip. Is URF PG rated? Would I need parent permission slips? :gee:

Damn Chuck. You're killin' me! :D
 
ChuckD said:
Ya, I want to know whent he next tour is. I have a cub scout group and a sixth grade class needing a place to go on a field trip. Is URF PG rated? Would I need parent permission slips? :gee:

You'd need not only permission slips, but very likely interpretive guides to explain the going's-on to the youngins'.

URF can best be described as 10 pounds of crapped shoved into a 5 pound sack.

CRASH
 
CRASH said:
You'd need not only permission slips, but very likely interpretive guides to explain the going's-on to the youngins'.

URF can best be described as 10 pounds of crapped shoved into a 5 pound sack.

CRASH

Is this a mytical place? Your house? Wheeler hang out, what? Is this URF off the ground and an operation entitiy? :shhh: I would really like to come by and see that place and meet some people.
Troy
 
First, you must drink the special Kool-Aid.

CRASH
 
CRASH said:
First, you must drink the special Kool-Aid.

CRASH

Sort of sounds like the into to the Matrix when Mr. Anderson becomes Neo and has to take either the red or blue pill and then things get all weird all of a sudden. :lickout:
 
Yup, that's about right.

CRASH
 
Ya Know my wife does fileings with the state whenever you decide you need to incorportate or make trademarks and what not :D of course the secret society thing is pretty cool :)

Don't forget if you do stumble accross URF headquarters that you will need the secret handshake and the password to get in.

I'll give you a clue to the secret password to get in though, two words, 5 letters, and in a deep RN tone.
 
This is good......does Troy know what URF is an acronym for? :)
 
My $.02. I've got a '98 AW4, 4:1 Klune, Dana 300, 4.55 axles and 37" MTRs. It's a 4200 lb or so rig (not an XJ).

I just got it going a few weeks ago and spent a week in Moab with it. I spent most of my time in either the Dana low, or the Klune low. Double low is just rediculous, and I shifted the tranny into 2nd or even 3rd at times doing this. It's very cool when you really really want to go slow, but I found it was too slow for the "Moab bump". The 4:1 was optimal there.

In the AZ rocks, it's much different. Here there's boulder fields, not smooth slickrock. I think I'll like having both cases in low range here, but I have not been out yet (I broke reverse :(

Anyways, I'd say the optimal is a 4:1 case along with a 2.5:1 or so case is best. It give you 2 very good crawl ratios for different kinds of terrain, and still have a silly low for playing around with. Either a 4:1 Klune with stock t-case, or 4:1 t-case with the 2.7:1 Klune, take your pick.

--Dan
 
houlster said:
My $.02. I've got a '98 AW4, 4:1 Klune, Dana 300, 4.55 axles and 37" MTRs. It's a 4200 lb or so rig (not an XJ).

I just got it going a few weeks ago and spent a week in Moab with it. I spent most of my time in either the Dana low, or the Klune low. Double low is just rediculous, and I shifted the tranny into 2nd or even 3rd at times doing this. It's very cool when you really really want to go slow, but I found it was too slow for the "Moab bump". The 4:1 was optimal there.

In the AZ rocks, it's much different. Here there's boulder fields, not smooth slickrock. I think I'll like having both cases in low range here, but I have not been out yet (I broke reverse :(

Anyways, I'd say the optimal is a 4:1 case along with a 2.5:1 or so case is best. It give you 2 very good crawl ratios for different kinds of terrain, and still have a silly low for playing around with. Either a 4:1 Klune with stock t-case, or 4:1 t-case with the 2.7:1 Klune, take your pick.

--Dan

Sounds good. What vehicle do you have this in. It sounds like a jeep by your desc of all the jeep parts. Is it a yj/tj/cj or some other short wheel base jeep? I know I would like a 4:1 case, but the 2.72 is real good for mud, sand, and times where you want more wheel spin. This setup gives you the best of both worlds. Is it possible to run the stock t-case in front of the klune-v/stronger case so it is less likely to break by the gear multiplication?
Troy
 
Goatman said:
This is good......does Troy know what URF is an acronym for? :)

U are f@#$ed!!! :moon: :laugh3: :smsoap: Am I close. :wierd:
 
steinjeep said:
Good points, thanks for the info. I'm planning on keep my rev dana 30, so 4.56 gears are probably low enough for that axle. I have 4.88's in my wrangler with a ford 8.8, but I heard this is getting a bit low and might be giving up to much strength, plus 4.56 gears are very common and I was able to buy these axles already setup so it saved me alot of $$$ rather than having it done and buying the parts new. I know what you mean about maxing out your brakes with 4.56 gears and low range. I was having a pretty hard time stopping when the person in front of me decided to ride his brakes in his tj. I bled them pretty good after I put in the axles, but I will probably need to use neutral more to stop in low range if the decent is pretty steep and I'm going slow enough and want to make a complete stop. Is the 1-2 & torque converter mod a good idea in your opinion? I wonder if my rig will stay in 1st for up to 3K rpm or so before going into 2nd. Also I wonder how much more comp braking will be added by locking up the torque conv and lot allowing any slip?
Troy

My experience is that anything lower than a 4 to 1 ratio in the t-case with an automatic is useless. In this case, CRASH has recommended too low an overall ratio for an auto......but he already admitted that he might have missed it. My overall ratio is 57 to 1 with the 4 to 1 and 5.13 gears, and I wouldn't want it any lower than that. It would be nice sometimes to be able to lock the trans into 2nd gear, when a little throttle is required on a climb, but otherwise I've rarely felt I needed the 2nd gear lock in. I would like to have it, and one of these days I'll get around to doing it. The trans will hold 1st gear if idling down a steep hill, so that's not a problem, and I've never experienced the gearing overrunning the brakes......it has always stopped just like it's supposed to. I've thought about the torque converter lockup, but I don't know when I would use it, it certainly isn't needed, and then there's the risk of forgetting and stalling the motor. I'll never make that modification.

I guess I'm just a lazy driver. I don't shift the trans, I don't switch the locker on and off, I don't lock in the gears, and I don't lock the torque converter. Maybe this is just too simple for some..........all I can say is follow me, I'll make it interesting enough. :D :D

:cheers:
 
steinjeep said:
U are f@#$ed!!! :moon: :laugh3: :smsoap: Am I close. :wierd:

Yup. Official name is U R Fuked Manufacturing......products for when it's already too late.

URF Racing is a subsidiary, and is the R & D arm of the firm. Amazingly, URF products really work, they kept Princess 1 on the trail way beyond when it looked like she would be forced into retirement.
 
CRASH said:
You'd need not only permission slips, but very likely interpretive guides to explain the going's-on to the youngins'.

URF can best be described as 10 pounds of crapped shoved into a 5 pound sack.

CRASH
My oldest son still hasn't recovered from his encounter with the URF reps... The shrink bills are starting to pile up, but he can actually complete a sentence without swearing now.
 
My overall crawl ratio right now is 38:1 with 4:88's, stock t-case, & an auto. As Goatman stated CRASHes 70:1 number for an auto is pretty much bogus. If you get an auto up over 40 than you should be sitting pretty & not have to worry too much. Brakes are there to slow you down. Don't be afraid to use them. In fact I'm normally on my brakes through the whole trail as I use them to bring the converter in & out & keep my RPM's fairly constant. This makes for smoother driving & less jerky. On descents I ride my emergency brakes down the hill & only use the fronts very lightly. This keeps the front from wanting to nose dive on really steep stuff & gives the feeling of more control.

Matt
 
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