Klune-V gear reduction unit/dual t-cases--is there a need???

[CRASH]

I am definately an auto newbie.

Thanks for the clarifications, guys.

CRASH

 

[Big Red]

My overall crawl ratio right now is 38:1 with 4:88's, stock t-case, & an auto. As Goatman stated CRASHes 70:1 number for an auto is pretty much bogus. If you get an auto up over 40 than you should be sitting pretty & not have to worry too much. Brakes are there to slow you down. Don't be afraid to use them. In fact I'm normally on my brakes through the whole trail as I use them to bring the converter in & out & keep my RPM's fairly constant. This makes for smoother driving & less jerky. On descents I ride my emergency brakes down the hill & only use the fronts very lightly. This keeps the front from wanting to nose dive on really steep stuff & gives the feeling of more control.

Matt

Thanks Matt for the info. I know you want to feather the brakes and not lock them up during decents, but an auto gives you the luxury of not having to worry about stalling out. I have to get my e brakes set up and I'll try using them during decents. You just apply a little e brake to keep you speed down, but don't lock the rear up right? Is this usually enough were you don't need to even touch the brake pedal with the e brake slowing you down?
Troy

 

[FarmerMatt]

Yes, for the most part I never touch my brake pedal on a descent. You do not want to lock up the rear brakes with the e-brakes as the rear will want to slide around. A skidding tire has little to no control over it's positioning. You just want to pull the rear brakes on to give some resistance & so you don't have to apply the fronts real hard which gives you the spooky nose dive feeling. The key to good rock crawling is to be smooth & controlled while maintaining momentum.

Matt

 

[Big Red]

Yes, for the most part I never touch my brake pedal on a descent. You do not want to lock up the rear brakes with the e-brakes as the rear will want to slide around. A skidding tire has little to no control over it's positioning. You just want to pull the rear brakes on to give some resistance & so you don't have to apply the fronts real hard which gives you the spooky nose dive feeling. The key to good rock crawling is to be smooth & controlled while maintaining momentum.

Matt

Sounds good. I'm now waiting for my passenger side yj e-brake cables to come to my house. I hope to have the e brakes hooked up by the rubicon trip and/or the "1-2" gear mod and the torque converter lock up switches.
Troy

 

[houlster]

Sounds good. What vehicle do you have this in. It sounds like a jeep by your desc of all the jeep parts. Is it a yj/tj/cj or some other short wheel base jeep?

No, not a Jeep. It's an Isuzu Amigo. I wanted an auto tranny and some low-gear options. Isuzu used the A340H in the late 80's with my motor so with that bell, TC and flexplate, the AW4 is nearly a bolt-in as far as the critical stuff is concerned. Not counting the custom cross-members, skids, driveshafts, shifters, etc.

Couple pics:
Shifters:

And underside:

Is it possible to run the stock t-case in front of the klune-v/stronger case so it is less likely to break by the gear multiplication?
Troy

What would you do with the front output? Having the t-case first, with a crawler box behind it isn't really gonna work. Unless you're talking about cutting the front output off the front t-case (turning it into a reduction box essentially) and putting a 2nd t-case behind it.

--Dan