• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Just bought overhead computer console for my 00 XJ. Any tips?

I was specifically wondering about C301 (or the connection at the bottom of the A-Pillar): The ones in the photo on Page 2 posted by JeepZZ.

I did a bunch of googling on the connector types, and can't find anything useful (in fact, they all seem to be cylindrical connectors, not blades....so I don't know what to think).

I am sure that this is not a Weatherpack connector (that is about the only connector I can identify).
 
It turns out that I have a '99 OHC + wiring harness going into an '01 (the colors match, but the harness connectors don't quite). After reviewing the wiring diagrams, it appears as if both harness are wired identically. In looking at the photos posted by JeepZZ, it appears that the '99 wiring harness could potentially plug directly into the '01 receptacle. Can anyone confirm or deny this (i.e. can I just plug an unmodified '99 wiring harness into an '01)?
 
.... it appears that the '99 wiring harness could potentially plug directly into the '01 receptacle. Can anyone confirm or deny this ?

The 99 and 01 Jeep plugs are incompatible. The wire colors match, so you can use any type of wire plug ( as a replacement for the Jeep plugs ) or you can just clip the plugs and hard wire the console.
 
Thanks for that. I would also like to mention (since I have not seen the info anywhere else), that the vanity mirror light plugs for the visors are also different (and incompatable) between a '99 and an '01. The '01 has a 2-wire connector, and the '99 has a smaller, single wire connector. Since all the wire colors are the same, it is not too much trouble to splice in the '01 connector into a '99 wire harness.
 
The easiest thing to do, is to reuse the connector in the harness already installed in your xj.
 
Rgr that! Just make sure you flag one of the 2 white/black wires and know where it goes (top or bottom) when you are disassembling the harness(es).
 
I don't think I've seen this mentioned so here goes.. keep your body the frack out of the way when cutting the headliner. There's lots of fiberglass in the headliner and when cutting the holes you get a lot of fine 'glass dust all over yourself if not careful. By far the worst part of my install.
 
^^^ VERY true. My back itched for days because I got some down the back of my shirt.

Also, it turns out there is a front bracket for the OHC as well as a rear bracket... I did not realize this (at least, there is pre-97.) Mine mounted up fine with a 3" long #8 stainless steel screw from Home Depot and without the bracket, I just had to put a plastic anchor in the center hole in the crossmember behind the windshield - right between/behind the two holes for the IR receiver. I'm putting the bracket I got in when I pull it down to install my airhorn valve and pullchain properly in the sunglasses compartment.
 
Just installed a 2000 OHC in my 2000 Classic and 2000XJSPORT was kind enough to E-Mail me the write up. It was a breeze, and for a gadget nut like me well worth the money and time I have in the installation. It looks great up there too!
 
Just finished mine as well and I love it. The OHD came from a 97 and the wiring needed some modification to fit. I used a razor knife to cut the roofing material and had no problem with itchy insulation falling on me. One suggestion would be to remove as much of the dash as you can. You could probably maneuver most of the parts around, but I did it on a cold day and figured much of the plastic would not survive. The hardest part to remove was the dash end cap that contains the side vent. It's removal required the removal of the dash top which required...... instrument cluster bezel.....radio/heater bezel......glove box.......passenger airbag ( cover.......drivers side knee bolster (both the plastic and metal one). I also found that it helped to remove the right side roof trim all the way to the back lift gate. Again, on a nice warm day when the plastic was sort of pliable, most of this could be avoided. I would also advise marking the cuts with some painters tape before cutting and place the console over the tape to ensure full coverage. I got a little close to the edges and could have spared some material. The holes don't have to be overly huge. When drilling out the rivets for the old bracket, go verrrrrry slow as not to punch a hole in the roof. To resecure the new bracket, I used larger aluminum rivets (couldn't find steel in that size) combined with construction adhesive to guarantee no rattles.

HTH.
 
The 97+ brackets are riveted on? BTW, easy way to get rid of rivets is to use a dremel with an abrasive cutting wheel, just grind the head off and then push the stub into whatever cavity is behind the panel. Avoids issues with punching through and screwing up the roof like you said, and also means the $#@%^$#^ing thing does not come partially loose and then spin in the hole until you die of old age.
 
97 OHC brackets use Phillips screws, 98-01 use rivets. Whatever will hold your bracket in place is fine, the console weighs very little.

Removing the 15mm bolt that holds the lower part of the dash support to the side of the body (located below the glove box opening) will allow you to flex the dash enough to slip the wire connectors between the dash plastic and the body. This method allows you to leave all the dash plastic in place.
 
Last edited:
I couldn't find that 15mm bolt to save my life. I just cut the harness to make it easier to fish through the dash and spliced, soldered, taped, and used a plastic sleeve to keep it nice and neat. I had read about the white/black wires after the fact, and I guessed wrong the first go round. I knew I would though and didn't solder those two connections until I made sure everything was right. Why Chrysler used two wires the same color in one harness is beyond me, but at least it didn't do any damage when reversed.

I did get a little itching on my arms, but kept most of my body away from the falling debris. I made sure to vacuum really well after the installation was done.
 
I couldn't find that 15mm bolt to save my life. I just cut the harness to make it easier to fish through the dash and spliced, soldered, taped, and used a plastic sleeve to keep it nice and neat. I had read about the white/black wires after the fact, and I guessed wrong the first go round. I knew I would though and didn't solder those two connections until I made sure everything was right. Why Chrysler used two wires the same color in one harness is beyond me, but at least it didn't do any damage when reversed.

I did get a little itching on my arms, but kept most of my body away from the falling debris. I made sure to vacuum really well after the installation was done.

2X don't know why there are two black and white. I just made a mental note of what pin it was in the original connector and then matched it up with the OHC Console. What happens when you get them wrong?
 
2X don't know why there are two black and white. I just made a mental note of what pin it was in the original connector and then matched it up with the OHC Console. What happens when you get them wrong?

The lights work, but the computer doesn't. Righted them and all was well. I knew others had got it mixed up with no bad results from my searching, so I wasn't too worried about it.
 
The white/black wire is switched ignition power to the OHC compass/temp computer - I guess it is also something else, not sure what.

PS - discovered this while helping mini-man wire in the OHC I traded him; if you do not have power locks/windows AT LEAST you may not have the proper cross body wiring harness to support a plug-in/bolt-on OHC install. I think having RKE but no power windows may also qualify you for a plug-in/bolt-on install, but I'm not sure. Luckily I was already planning on running custom wiring for much of the OHC since I had built a custom wiring harness for it when intending to install it in mine, so I had a few hundred feet of good wire, a bucket of crimp terminals, and my DMM with me.

Swapping the cross body wiring harness is no party, it means pulling up the center console, pulling the carpet up, installing the new harness, and reversing the whole process. This info all applies to pre-97, I'm not sure how it jives with a 97+ install.
 
ok just installed a 97 console into a 99 sport that had keyless entry. When plugging in the console the locks clicked so i assumed that meant it had power.. everything on the console works perfectly. Except now my keyless entry does not.. If I swap the board from the original light in the 99 to the 97 console will the keyless entry work again?
 
Yeah, you have to swap out the boards for the rke to work. Simple task.

+1 To me the easiest way to pull that module out of the console it to drill a 3/8" hole where the screw sits up under the plastic. You'll see what I mean when you get in there. Start with 1/8" or smaller to not shred the plastic and work your way to 3/8" so you can get that little screw out of there. It looks like that peice may seperate, but with the fabric cover and all that I thought it was easier to just make your own "screw access port". It comes out of the dome light much easier.
 
Back
Top