Jeep update

Exactly right, more splines is more surface area, more contact, and load is spread over a larger area, that larger area makes the strainght.

I know it sounds backwards because the splines are so much bigger, but it is the contact surface that matters. (I am sure some engineer can say it better then me)

You hope you break more like this, and not into lots of parts, that take out your carrier, gears and bearings:
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Photo by Bryan C.
 
Thanks letterman. I understand how it works and everything it just sucks, but I think that they will be strong enough for what I want for now, but they will be upgraded at some point whether if that is now, if I can't find a matching front ratio, or later when I start wheeling hard again.
 
Haven't gotten a lot done, but here we go. After taking apart the drums and brakes I replaced both inner wheel berring seals, greased the wheel berrings, and replaced the wheel cylinders. I put everything back together and I noticed that it has to different drums, the driver's side has a lip that goes over the backing plate while the passenger's side has a lip that just goes up and not over. Is that normal?

Since the Driver's side rear quater was pretty bent up I decided to cut and fold both sides. It's not pretty, and still needs to be welded and sealed.
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Threw the 60 under the jeep to see how it would sit. I was surprised that the perches on the 60 aren't wider then the leafs, but they are gonna get cut off anyways. Still needs better adjustments and measuring but here is a basic idea of the stance.
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Yes the garage is cluttered and filthy. Any other comments or advice?
 
I am possibly buying a HP Dana 60 from a 96 Ford. Its has a matching 8 lug pattern as the rear. I understand that it is has balljoints, but I am not worried about that. But if I read the 60 bible correctly the pinion is about 3.5" to the driver's side, I don't think that this will be a problem with setting up the coils, but I jsut wanted to know anyone has any personal experience.

Also I cut off the old spring perches and got some new perches for it. I don't have an angle finder so I was going to weld them so them so the pinion will be slightly above parallel. If I went out and got an angle finder I need to be about 11* right? I'm on about 5" lift. Also they will be welded about 6 1/4" from the drums backing plate. Will it be a big deal if I am off 1/8" on one side? Sound about right?

Advice/comments are welcome
 
angle finders are like 8$ . home depot, ace, harbor freight.
where did you break so many front 297 shafts?
i gotta throw in my .02
i might not wheel as much as you,(13 times this year) but i have never broken a front 297 shaft on my 30 (stock shafts) . my same exact front axle had a few broken front shafts by the pervious owner, i have yet to brake one. i wheel with the thought that i have to drive my rig home. it makes me a little paranoid and over cautous on the trail sometimes, but id rather take another 10 minutes on an obstacle than swap in a new front shaft. but it seems like you are set on the 60, which is not a bad idea at all.
im on 35s and 4.88s and detroits. i think next time ill either go down to 33s or truss the 30 and the 44 and go up to 37s and carry more spares...



i personally liked it with the 33s better than 35s. more power
 
Yeah, I'm jsut going to buy the angle finder.

I broke all the shafts at Hollister. One on a log in the ravine by the lower campsites, one in the logs of frame twister, One if a huge canyon/hole/lake bed thing near tank trap, and two on jungle on my last run where everything broke.

I may be dumb, but I am the type of person that if I didn't get it the first time, I try again and again and again until either I win or the obstackle wins. I have tried the conversative way about obstackles, but it is just not as fun for me.

I think 60's are the way to go for me and my driving habits.
 
Complete Dana 60 with 5.13's, open carrier, brand new brake pads. $800, alittle higher then I wanted to pay, but it is still a smokin deal and I wont have to regear it.
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I wouldnt say 800 is bad at all for that axle, especially with those gears. They seem to be worth their weight in gold... at least all the ones Ive seen around here are.

What size tires are you planning on running?
 
I wouldnt say 800 is bad at all for that axle, especially with those gears. They seem to be worth their weight in gold... at least all the ones Ive seen around here are.

What size tires are you planning on running?

I plan on running something around a 37 but I need to do a little more research on the stock axle strength.
 
my back hurts just lookin at that thing :) i keep moving one around my carport man are they heavy lol me and my buddy pulled one from pnp for $220 out the door 89 f-350 kingpin 60 cant wait to see yours under your xj already geared is sweet though
 
I plan on running something around a 37 but I need to do a little more research on the stock axle strength.

I hear that 37's should be considered the bare minimum tire size. You'll be dragging that diff everywhere.

No matter what, Im jealous.
 
I will be getting this bracket combo
http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/...bo_p_1461.html
I have been doing some number cruching about how much to cut and how it'll fit, but I think it's will be easier to do when I have the brackets.

I will also be ordering this link mount for the upper
http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/...er_p_1398.html
But I am unsure if whether I should get 7" of 8" of separation? What do you guys think?
Also I was planning on using these for all of my joints http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/...nt_p_1636.html
Are these going to be strong enough or will I need the 3" joints?
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Started some work on the leaf springs
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To
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The stock upper coil bucket is 36.5", from inner C to inner C on the Dana 60 is 45.5". Which means that for a perfect coil placement the center of the coil needs to be 4.5" from the inner C on both sides. Unfortunetly that is not possible due to the amount of room between the diff and inner C.

I took some measurements and did some math. ( I did not factor in the .25 bracket width so the measurements are rough but . . . )
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I am going to grind off about .25 off of the coil mount to get it closer to the diff. So in total I expect the center coil mount to center coil mount to be 38" to 38.5" making the springs outboarded by .75 to 1" on both sides.

This is the best way I can figure it out, but I am open to any and all suggestions comments.
 
So I got all of the brackets/hiems/steel for the cross member and should be starting the mock up fairly shortly here, but I have a problem . . .

I am in the midst of disassembling the front, but I cannot find the right size Dana 60 hub/wheel/spindle socket. I have been through 3 different ones at my local parts stores, but they are all alittle to small.

It is spindle nut is 4 prong and about 2 3/8 big. Does that sound right and does anyone have an actual part number?
 
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