I've lost my mind.. or an MP90 on a stroker

[O-Gauge Steamer]

I can understand why you might not care for dual exhaust on an XJ. I can not remember actually ever seeing one that was done correctly. Most are just sort of rude, hack it at the back sort of thing.

If anyone has photos of a true dual set up I, for one, would love to see it.

I ran a dual installation on the 2.5L L6 Triumph engine I built in '73. That was a true 6 into 2 header/pipe installation with a pair of Stebro mufflers at the back.

IMO, it is difficult to say, "Just do this and life will be good". Variable keep creeping into the way. What make cats are used? What mufflers are being used. Is the muffler a dual in dual out in nature? Separate mufflers?

As is usually the case, to do it right rings the cash register.

Talyn, thanks for the chart. Good information that.

 

[MoparManiac]

I had a feeling I was horrible restricting my motor with 3" single exhaust. But fitting a larger exhaust would be hard. Duals harder still. I've contemplated a section of rectangular/oval pipe, but that starts to rack up the $$$.

I'd probably go with a larger single exhaust. It's probably easier to fit.

 

[Talyn]

The exhaust will be later down the road, after the SC is installed and working w/o ping. Its not going to be cheap though. New header + new thermal coating + complete exhaust. And then finding a shop to do the mandrel bending. But that will be later down the road.

Whats the thoughts on lowering the engine?
I need about .375" (maybe a bit less) for the hood to fully close, not counting some extra room for when the engine torques. And then that is with the pulley I have now... if I need to go larger to reduce the boost it will need to be lower. So it would have to be lowered some where in the nature of .5" to 1". Exhaust down pipe would have to be modified... there may be room for the stock fan, but I don't think at a full 1 inch it would work. I'm kind of leaning toward not.

 

[rav]

I am having a custom cowl type scoop that's being made as I type. It will be 22" on front and 24" at the back. Would something like this work?

 

[Talyn]

I'd have to take some measurements. Thing is its only interfering at the pulley in the front, which is right where the hood latch pivot mechanism is (where the cable hooks in). But that is easy enough to move.

 

[kastein]

Probably don't want to go this route, but maybe hood pins?

 

[Talyn]

Hood pins really aren't going to help. The latch pivot is easy enough to move a few inches inboard and the rods are easy enough to weld back together. The pulley will still need a hole for the hood to close.

 

[O-Gauge Steamer]

Lowering the engine.

If you go this way, and I see no large downside, I would like to suggest that the transfer case be dropped by the same amount in order to preserve the geometries as much as possible.

Glad to see you are getting close to installation. Should make for a fun drive...

 

[Talyn]

Close to install.. lol. I'm close to getting the grinding done. Not anywhere close to install.

Its not that I have a problem cutting a hole in the hood, thats easy. Its covering it up that will be an issue. I would like to keep the hood vents and having another bump or vent in such close proximity may look odd.

I could do something along these lines:

I'll probably make it out of fiberglass just so its the size I need. I could do something similar to one of those Dodge Stealth bumps and mold it into the side of that vent a bit.

 

[O-Gauge Steamer]

I actually rather like the looks of the first photo. A simple solution that is not at all flashy.

You know how I prefer to be "stealthy" with the power additions as I see no sense in advertising...

Attaching fibreglass to steel. In the past, I have found that riveting the part to the hood using fender washers on the underside and then relying on the glass to mold the body lines to be the most secure method. I am way more than sure that there will be responses to this. In the end, whatever has worked out best for the individual is what is best for that individual.

The biggest mistake I have seen in this process is to not completely remove all of the paint from the surface to be glassed. Inevitably, the resin will let go of the paint and the part will detach itself.

 

[Root Moose]

FWIW, I have a set of the Pontiac vents like the ones on the silver Jeep. I haven't mounted them yet but my intent was to put them in the extreme corners (effectively over the computer and the battery). Basically to make it look like a Euro spec Orvis XJ.

The vents have posts molded into them to attach to whatever surface you are dealing with. I can snap a few pictures of the backside if you'd like.

I was going to fab up a couple of "splash shields" to make rain water run down beyond the frame rail. Haven't put a lot of thought into that part yet.

I like the intake vents you are showing. Any of those will look great IMO. I'm not certain how effective they will be though - seems like small opening?

I picked up an old Isuzu Impulse intake - it's kind of half NACA duct shaped and looks pretty trick. I won't be using it on the Jeep I'm working on currently... bought one of the cheap Chinese knock off Airflow snorkels since I'm still working on the overlanding Jeep. If you are interested I can take a couple of pictures of the Isuzu duct if you can't find a decent picture on google.

 

[O-Gauge Steamer]

IMO, the "opening" can be completely sealed off as the purpose is to clear the pulley on the compressor, not draw in air.

As Root Moose points out, small for that.

Euro Orvis XJ. A good version of the XJ with a "spoiler" on the hatch that was actually effective at reducing the amount o dust that collect on the windscreen. 10 years ago, or so, one could find them at a Dealer in Florida.

Would I like to get my hands on one today...

 

[Talyn]

You know how I prefer to be "stealthy" with the power additions as I see no sense in advertising...

Yes, I like the current hood with just the vents. Hell, most people think they are stick on ricer junk, not actually functional.

Attaching fibreglass to steel. In the past, I have found that riveting the part to the hood using fender washers on the underside and then relying on the glass to mold the body lines to be the most secure method.

I don't have much hope for attaching fiberglass directly to steel. I would mold some form of insert (maybe aluminum) into the fiberglass so I could insert bolts or studs into it.

FWIW, I have a set of the Pontiac vents like the ones on the silver Jeep. I haven't mounted them yet but my intent was to put them in the extreme corners (effectively over the computer and the battery). Basically to make it look like a Euro spec Orvis XJ.

The Euro XJs have the vents right about where mine are. Its the ZJs that have them further out.

I like the intake vents you are showing. Any of those will look great IMO. I'm not certain how effective they will be though - seems like small opening?

It wouldn't be an intake, just for clearance.

Looking at the Reflexxions cowl hood from years ago looks like it would fit the bill perfectly. It looks like the front section starts right where I would need it to be. It would also solve the other problem of routing the air intake tubing to the front. Simon, 1bolt on here, did something similar years ago and used the cowl hood as an intake. Pics here: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=100961&page=2 http://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=37&start=30

However, finding one of those hoods would be tricky as I don't think they are making them any longer. And, the original price is more than I would pay, ~$600. There are other cowl hoods available but they aren't steel and I think the Reflexxions one had the best contours and positioning.

 

[Root Moose]

Ok, I stand corrected on the vent location. I had to go back through my archive of XJ porn and find a picture of a euro Orvis XJ to believe it. Funny the tricks the mind plays over the years...

 

[Talyn]

90% finished with grinding. I opted to keep the buttresses for some extra strength in that area. The flash makes it look rougher than it is. I was lazy and didn't feel like setting up the tripod or lighting. I may do some more on the outside just for aesthetics.

 

[rav]

That came out awesome! As always, your attention to detail is amazing and inspiring.

 

[O-Gauge Steamer]

Going to port match? Excellent idea. Be surprised at the difference it will make in the manifold flow.

 

[Talyn]

Port matching is already done.

 

[ColoradoRaptor]

90% finished with grinding. I opted to keep the buttresses for some extra strength in that area. The flash makes it look rougher than it is. I was lazy and didn't feel like setting up the tripod or lighting. I may do some more on the outside just for aesthetics.

Very nice!!

 

[Talyn]

Yesterday I cleaned up the exterior a bit.

It won't stay that semi polished look as it will be getting a coating, but I wanted a smooth finish on it.

Today I'm cutting some more test plates on the router. The inlet and outlet plates needed some adjustments.