Its keeps getting to high

[bigalpha]

(because with jeep running turning that screw makes the idle go up as I push the plate further away but as I bring the same plate closer but not touching the idle of the car just seemed better) (can anyone explain that?)

as for the point where your telling me to set it., if i understand it correctly the concept is to just have it so the plate does touch the Alloy.
so it coming out just a bit is good right?

:doh:

When you open the valve it idles higher because it's allowing more air into the engine.

Turn the screw so the valve touches the side of the throttle body. Then you turn the screw so the valve is just a hair off the TB.

 

[kastein]

I do kinda want to see what happens when you take the throttle body off a 4.0 with the engine running.

Especially a RENIX, I am fairly certain the RPMs would head directly for Pluto and not stop till the crankshaft and cam fly out of the engine.

I bet you wouldn't need a new manifold gasket anymore if you did that.

 

[souske]

It could be a new fad in auto maintenance. Why start with an intake gasket though? Rookies should start with changing plug wires wile the engine is running. Once you get that down, start doing the plugs one at a time.

 

[bigalpha]

Rookies should start with changing plug wires wile the engine is running.

Would that stop your heart?

 

[joe_peters]

There is NO idle adjustment screw on the throttle body. Period.

There is, however, a small 3/32" allen screw, and its correct name is "The Little Screw That Keeps the Steel Throttle Plate from Slamming Closed Against the Alloy Throttle Body Wall and Causing Irreparable Harm".

Remove the intake tube from the throttle body, exposing the throttle plate. Turn the screw out so that it no longer touches or has any effect on the throttle plate. Now, carefully turn the screw back in--AT THE FIRST PERCEPTIBLE MOVEMENT OF THE THROTTLE PLATE, STOP TURNING THE SCREW--there, you have just set the throttle plate rest correctly. NOW LEAVE IT ALONE.

The ECU/PCM sends extend/retract commands to the IAC stepper motor to control the idle. If the idle isn't correct, clean the throttle body and IAC port, clean the pintle on the IAC--CAREFULL, it can break. Now, if the TPS is within specs and the idle is not correct--700~750 rpm (for an auto trans, check idle after 20 minutes of operation and while the vehicle is in DRIVE--have someone sit in driver's seat and hold the service brake pedal while testing), and you have checked for intake/vacuum leaks, then replace the IAC.

Fixed. :doh:

 

[Shorty]

It could be a new fad in auto maintenance. Why start with an intake gasket though? Rookies should start with changing plug wires wile the engine is running. Once you get that down, start doing the plugs one at a time.

reminds me of an email joke I got a while ago:


A mechanic was removing a cylinder head from the motor of a Harley
motorcycle when he spotted a well-known heart surgeon in his shop.
The surgeon was there, waiting for the service manager to come and take a look at his bike.
The mechanic shouted across the garage, "Hey, Doc, can I ask you a question?"

The surgeon a bit surprised, walked over to the mechanic working on the motorcycle. The mechanic straightened up, wiped his hands on a rag and asked, "So Doc, look at this engine. I open its heart, take valves out, fix 'em, put 'em back in, and when I finish, it works just like new. So how come I get such a small salary and you get the really big bucks, when you and I are doing basically the same work?"

The surgeon paused, smiled and leaned over, and whispered to the mechanic...
"Try doing it with the engine running."

 

[souske]

Would that stop your heart?

theoretically it could throw it off, usually it just stings

 

[cruiser54]

theoretically it could throw it off, usually it just stings

With me, it triggers an intense episode of temporary Turretts Syndrome.