Is the T60 oil filter adapter a reverse thread?

BrokenSockets

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Ayr, Ontario
Is the T60 oil filter adapter bolt a reverse thread?

Just thought I would ask before giving it a huge amount of force. I have a T-60 allen wrench type tool with a LONG Johnson bar and have met a bit of resistance. I want to get the seals changed this afternoon to stop the leak before going for a week long drive.

Can it be that hard to remove?

If I am turning the wrong way I would rather know sooner than later.

I am under the Jeep now, so if anyone can confirm it's a regular thread I'll just give'r more muscle.
 
Nope, not reverse thread, but you are in Canada and anything goes up there in America's hat.

I used my hi-lift jack handle for leverage to break the torque. It is torqued to something like 80 ft lbs if I recall, so just take your time and use a long handle. Righty-tighty, lefty-loosey.
 
Is the T60 oil filter adapter bolt a reverse thread?

Just thought I would ask before giving it a huge amount of force. I have a T-60 allen wrench type tool with a LONG Johnson bar and have met a bit of resistance. I want to get the seals changed this afternoon to stop the leak before going for a week long drive.

Can it be that hard to remove?

If I am turning the wrong way I would rather know sooner than later.

I am under the Jeep now, so if anyone can confirm it's a regular thread I'll just give'r more muscle.
I could not beleive how tight mine was
 
Mine on the other hand was loose enough that I managed to remove it with a T-55 (oops :doh:) without the slightest bit of damage to the bolt or bit. I used a breaker bar and about a 3ft long section of 1" pipe for a cheater. Popped right off. Definitely normal threads.
 
Should probably get used to changing those seals if you plan to keep the Jeep for a while. I've done mine twice in the last 3 years. Most recently was earlier this year. Ended up getting a long torx set from Pep Boys that is basically the torx on one end and the rest is several inches long and 6 point all the way around (meant to have a socket & ratchet or a wrench put on it, instead of the torx sockets that are meant to be put directly on a ratchet and are too damn big for this job). I cut the torx bit down to where it's just the actual torx part and just enough of the 6 point end left to slip a wrench on and threw a breaker bar on it. Ended up turning a brand new gearwrench into a funky z-shaped gearwrench that people'd probably pay really good money for in the store, that's how damn tight the bolt was (keep in mind, this wasn't the first time this bolt has been out!). In the end my POS Harbor Freight wrench and the breaker bar took it right off.

This stupid bolt is one of a handful of pet peeves I have with XJ's. One of those, "What were they thinking when they thought this was a good idea?" things.
 
Should probably get used to changing those seals if you plan to keep the Jeep for a while. I've done mine twice in the last 3 years. Most recently was earlier this year. Ended up getting a long torx set from Pep Boys that is basically the torx on one end and the rest is several inches long and 6 point all the way around (meant to have a socket & ratchet or a wrench put on it, instead of the torx sockets that are meant to be put directly on a ratchet and are too damn big for this job). I cut the torx bit down to where it's just the actual torx part and just enough of the 6 point end left to slip a wrench on and threw a breaker bar on it. Ended up turning a brand new gearwrench into a funky z-shaped gearwrench that people'd probably pay really good money for in the store, that's how damn tight the bolt was (keep in mind, this wasn't the first time this bolt has been out!). In the end my POS Harbor Freight wrench and the breaker bar took it right off.

This stupid bolt is one of a handful of pet peeves I have with XJ's. One of those, "What were they thinking when they thought this was a good idea?" things.
They were thinking "this is easy to work on, it is right there" because they designed the engine before putting it in the body/frame :doh:

Happens all the time, I would like to meet the designers of a few VW, Volvo, Mazda, and Ford engines in a dark alley somewhere. I have a 1" long 1/4" wide scar on my right wrist caused by the ill-fated placement of the oil filter on Ford Windstar minivans... just above the frame rail and catalytic converter/downpipe, and with barely enough space to snake your arm between the two. I got that battle scar in approximately 2003, 7 years ago, and it is still plainly visible.
 
Thanks rocknXJ and the rest of the one-liner crew. I can skip the comedy club this week :-)

I decided to go nice and slow with a 5 ft. pipe. After an initial POP it came slow but easy. Slid the 2 new rubbers onto the shaft plus the big ring around the outer edge - should do the job to contain any potential leaks.

I am satisfied that I will maintain proper lubrication and be protected from any unwelcome complications that could have arisen.

Cheers!
 
They were thinking "this is easy to work on, it is right there" because they designed the engine before putting it in the body/frame :doh:

Happens all the time, I would like to meet the designers of a few VW, Volvo, Mazda, and Ford engines in a dark alley somewhere. I have a 1" long 1/4" wide scar on my right wrist caused by the ill-fated placement of the oil filter on Ford Windstar minivans... just above the frame rail and catalytic converter/downpipe, and with barely enough space to snake your arm between the two. I got that battle scar in approximately 2003, 7 years ago, and it is still plainly visible.

Don't try to change the tranny filter in a Ford Escape. You gotta pull the tranny, and split the case halves open...great!. Or change the oil in a Taurus/Sable. In the 3.8 engine, the oil filter is above front lateral link. The trapped oil leaks for weeks, and eats the bushing, ensuring sloppy handling.
 
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Yep, fortunately I got out of the quicklube industry in 05. The only vehicles I work on are XJs, MJs, large military hardware, and friend's rides...
 
I decided to go nice and slow with a 5 ft. pipe. After an initial POP it came slow but easy. Slid the 2 new rubbers onto the shaft plus the big ring around the outer edge - should do the job to contain any potential leaks.

I am satisfied that I will maintain proper lubrication and be protected from any unwelcome complications that could have arisen.

Cheers!

Holy crappings. You know when people write "LOL" and don't really mean it, well, I actually laughed out loud and even peed a bit with that reply. I'm still laughing...
 
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