bajacalal
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- San Diego (North County), California
A lot of people have recently expressed interest in swapping their idiot light cluster for the full gauge model. This is easily accomplished on the XJ as vehicles with the full gauges do not have any wiring harness differences or different gauge panel dimensions. I have recently completed a successful installation. Heres how its done:
First you need to acquire a compatible, working instrument cluster. The interchangeable years for 4.0 I6 are: 1986-1990, 1991-1996, 1997-2001 (but the later years have slight differences, better to use a 97-98 or 99-01 unit for those years).
This how-to applies to the 91-96 models with airbag, but other years are similar, with some minor dashboard/steering column differences. Earier years have a mechanical (cable operated) speedometer. For the sake of honesty, get one with roughly the same displayed/stored mileage like I did. I got a good salvage one for under $15. It was cheap because someone had removed the backlighting bulbs. Since it was incomplete I paid less and swapped the bulbs and their sockets in from my old cluster.
First disconnect the battery. Next, you need to take off the dashboard bezel, the plastic piece that frames the stereo and all the controls. This came easy as I had my dash apart before, when my stereo got stolen It has 4 screws and some clips at the corners. Now would be a good time to find a container to seperate all the screws you remove. I stick them into a block of styrofoam, I write on the foam what each bunch of screws go to. Pop the bezel out after unscrewing by gently pulling from behind, next to each clip. Locate each clip, then gently seperate the bezel from the dash by firmly pulling the bezel, where it has openings for the different switches and such. Do it so the force is spread out over an area, don't break it by pulling hard and bending it in one spot.
With the bezel loose, but still setting by the dash, you need to remove some parts of the steering wheel column. The 2 piece plastic cover of the steering column has 3 torx screws on the bottom. You need to remove the tilt lever as well. It should unscrew like a bolt, if its hard to unscrew, use a mild lubricant. NOT, PB blaster, its for metal parts located outside the vehicle, it will eat some plastics. With the plastic out of the way, put the lever back onto its actuator arm. You will need to be lowering and raising the steering wheel to move things around.
Lower the steering wheel all the way down. There is a plastic clip-on cover to the electrical connector of the combination switch- the thing that controls the blinkers,high beams and wipers. Pinch the clips, remove the cover. Underneath, there is a screw, 7 mm head. It needs to be removed so the combination switch can be unplugged. Finally, the bezel should lift up, forward and slide out.
You now have access to most of the 6 phillips screws that hold your old instrument panel (your idiot light panel). You may have to remove/unscrew the panels that hold the defrost switch, the rear wiper switch and possibly the cigarette lighter, in order to have complete access to the instrument panel. Note- the location/function of these switches may vary. These are the plastic panels you see to the lower left and lower right of the gauge cluster that may need to be loosened. Don't lose any screws.
Finally, you can unscrew (6 #2 phillips) the gauge cluster. It should have 2 multi-pin plugs on most XJ, one for the gauge area and one for the warning lights that are to the left of the gauge area. You have to rotate the gauge panel a bit, and reach in there to unhook the plugs. It was easier to unplug the left hand plug first. The plug for the warning lights did not appear to have anything to prevent it from bieng installed upside down. I would mark the top of this plug with a permanent pen.
Done already? Time to install your new, upgraded gauges. I have heard some people complain that their used gauges do not work, due to poor connections. Before installing the new cluster I gently tightened all the tiny No. 1 or 0 Phillips screws on the back of the panel . I also replaced the missing bulbs and sockets, and one-by-one I checked all the remaining little bulbs to see if they were burnt. I cleaned all of the bulb and plug contact points with rubbing alcolhol. I also noticed that the warning/indicator light panel (on the left) was missing a few bulbs. Apparently, Jeep left off any unnecessary bulbs for every vehicle and this panel came from a 2WD automatic XJ. I took one of the bulbs (and they are very tiny) from the old cluster, placed it in the bulb socket that reads "PART TIME" when you use the 4WD. I did not replace the annoying upshift indicator.
Slide the new panel into its hole, plug in the sockets, attach the screws. Reconnect all the smaller panels you disconnected in the reverse order of removal.
Slide the bezel back onto the dash (don't attach it yet), reassemble all of the components you took off (the combination switch connection and the plastic covers) AFTER again removing the steering tilt lever, then once all the screws are snug (not overtightened) slip the tilt lever into its slot and thread it back in. Now, the bezel can be snapped back to where it clips into the dashboard and screwed on.
If everything looks good, go ahead, connect the battery and put the key in the ignition, turn to "RUN" without starting the motor. Check to see that all the lights work and that the gauges read correctly (should read 0 except for gas). Start the engine. I found that the everything worked, except for the oil and temp gauges (which I knew about already). Someone said that the RENIX oil pressure sender is not a variable resistor, it returns voltage. I would unplug it first so it doesn't return too much (disregard this if its untrue, I haven't had time to confirm this yet). Now, you need to replace the sending units (sensors) for oil pressure and coolant temp. The idiot light switches are just that- a switch, not the variable resistor you need, so the gauge will read MAX pressure (infinite resistance when there is oil pressure).
I got the new oil pressure sensor at NAPA, describing exactly what I needed- "the sending unit for the GAUGES, not the IDIOT LIGHTS." Luckily, the part guy knew what I was talking about and even asked if it was an export model, I guess they're not the same either. So I got the right part and it works great, at least 30 PSI idling warm and at least 60 @ 2000 rpm. The temperature sender, nobody had so I am going to order it online. You just unplug and unscrew the sending units. The pressure sender is above the oil filter and the temperature sender on these models is behind and right of the valve cover on the 4.0, unless its at the thermostat housing. Normally, the sensor by the thermostat talks only to the computer. The temp sender is needs a 1/2" or 13mm deep socket. The oil pressure sending unit appears to need a 1 1/16" or 28mm socket. An adjustable crescent or box end wrench could be used if you're careful. Clean the hole in the oil filter housing, where the sensor mounts. I used a toothpick, solvent and cloth on the treads. There was sludge in there. Don't apply greases, plumbers tape or anything that
breaks the electrical ground between the sending unit and engine block. Apparently, a little copper RTV is ok.
Final considerations:
For a cheap and easy modification, the upgraded full instrument cluster is a huge improvement. The tachometer allows much more precise shifting of my (manual) transmission, but could benefit automatics as well. I do not worry about overheating or low oil pressure, as the gauges should indicate a problem before it becomes serious and allow me to take action before the engine is damaged. Furthermore, the font face on the new cluster is MUCH more asthetically pleasing, I don't know why, it just is. And, I was sick of staring at the huge gas gauge, watching my money burn away.
I did have a problem with the new oil pressure sender. It has a plastic housing which also holds electrical connector socket. Inside the unit, there is a prong that connects the eletrical component to the socket. The plastic housing locks onto the sending unit body with plastic tabs. But, the outer housing had slipped about 1mm, breaking the connection. You couldn't tell by looking at it. Eventually, I noticed the problem, pushed the plastic back on and used adhesive.
It was also a good idea to grease the steering wheel tilt mechanism while the steering column cover was off.
Tools:
#2 Phillips screwdrivers, a long one and a really short one.
#1 and #0 Phillips screwdriver
Torx driver - t15 or t20, I don't remember
Wrench to remove battery cables
7mm box end wrench or small socket
Socket or wrench for the oil sending unit
Deep 13mm or 1/2" socket
Cloth rag, for cleaning.
Keywords: gauge, gauges, idiot light, swap, instrument panel, cluster, tachometer, speedometer, how to
If anyone likes this write-up, feel free to post it to a website, don't hesitate to edit it or point out things I missed if you want to. Pics will follow.
First you need to acquire a compatible, working instrument cluster. The interchangeable years for 4.0 I6 are: 1986-1990, 1991-1996, 1997-2001 (but the later years have slight differences, better to use a 97-98 or 99-01 unit for those years).
This how-to applies to the 91-96 models with airbag, but other years are similar, with some minor dashboard/steering column differences. Earier years have a mechanical (cable operated) speedometer. For the sake of honesty, get one with roughly the same displayed/stored mileage like I did. I got a good salvage one for under $15. It was cheap because someone had removed the backlighting bulbs. Since it was incomplete I paid less and swapped the bulbs and their sockets in from my old cluster.
First disconnect the battery. Next, you need to take off the dashboard bezel, the plastic piece that frames the stereo and all the controls. This came easy as I had my dash apart before, when my stereo got stolen It has 4 screws and some clips at the corners. Now would be a good time to find a container to seperate all the screws you remove. I stick them into a block of styrofoam, I write on the foam what each bunch of screws go to. Pop the bezel out after unscrewing by gently pulling from behind, next to each clip. Locate each clip, then gently seperate the bezel from the dash by firmly pulling the bezel, where it has openings for the different switches and such. Do it so the force is spread out over an area, don't break it by pulling hard and bending it in one spot.
With the bezel loose, but still setting by the dash, you need to remove some parts of the steering wheel column. The 2 piece plastic cover of the steering column has 3 torx screws on the bottom. You need to remove the tilt lever as well. It should unscrew like a bolt, if its hard to unscrew, use a mild lubricant. NOT, PB blaster, its for metal parts located outside the vehicle, it will eat some plastics. With the plastic out of the way, put the lever back onto its actuator arm. You will need to be lowering and raising the steering wheel to move things around.
Lower the steering wheel all the way down. There is a plastic clip-on cover to the electrical connector of the combination switch- the thing that controls the blinkers,high beams and wipers. Pinch the clips, remove the cover. Underneath, there is a screw, 7 mm head. It needs to be removed so the combination switch can be unplugged. Finally, the bezel should lift up, forward and slide out.
You now have access to most of the 6 phillips screws that hold your old instrument panel (your idiot light panel). You may have to remove/unscrew the panels that hold the defrost switch, the rear wiper switch and possibly the cigarette lighter, in order to have complete access to the instrument panel. Note- the location/function of these switches may vary. These are the plastic panels you see to the lower left and lower right of the gauge cluster that may need to be loosened. Don't lose any screws.
Finally, you can unscrew (6 #2 phillips) the gauge cluster. It should have 2 multi-pin plugs on most XJ, one for the gauge area and one for the warning lights that are to the left of the gauge area. You have to rotate the gauge panel a bit, and reach in there to unhook the plugs. It was easier to unplug the left hand plug first. The plug for the warning lights did not appear to have anything to prevent it from bieng installed upside down. I would mark the top of this plug with a permanent pen.
Done already? Time to install your new, upgraded gauges. I have heard some people complain that their used gauges do not work, due to poor connections. Before installing the new cluster I gently tightened all the tiny No. 1 or 0 Phillips screws on the back of the panel . I also replaced the missing bulbs and sockets, and one-by-one I checked all the remaining little bulbs to see if they were burnt. I cleaned all of the bulb and plug contact points with rubbing alcolhol. I also noticed that the warning/indicator light panel (on the left) was missing a few bulbs. Apparently, Jeep left off any unnecessary bulbs for every vehicle and this panel came from a 2WD automatic XJ. I took one of the bulbs (and they are very tiny) from the old cluster, placed it in the bulb socket that reads "PART TIME" when you use the 4WD. I did not replace the annoying upshift indicator.
Slide the new panel into its hole, plug in the sockets, attach the screws. Reconnect all the smaller panels you disconnected in the reverse order of removal.
Slide the bezel back onto the dash (don't attach it yet), reassemble all of the components you took off (the combination switch connection and the plastic covers) AFTER again removing the steering tilt lever, then once all the screws are snug (not overtightened) slip the tilt lever into its slot and thread it back in. Now, the bezel can be snapped back to where it clips into the dashboard and screwed on.
If everything looks good, go ahead, connect the battery and put the key in the ignition, turn to "RUN" without starting the motor. Check to see that all the lights work and that the gauges read correctly (should read 0 except for gas). Start the engine. I found that the everything worked, except for the oil and temp gauges (which I knew about already). Someone said that the RENIX oil pressure sender is not a variable resistor, it returns voltage. I would unplug it first so it doesn't return too much (disregard this if its untrue, I haven't had time to confirm this yet). Now, you need to replace the sending units (sensors) for oil pressure and coolant temp. The idiot light switches are just that- a switch, not the variable resistor you need, so the gauge will read MAX pressure (infinite resistance when there is oil pressure).
I got the new oil pressure sensor at NAPA, describing exactly what I needed- "the sending unit for the GAUGES, not the IDIOT LIGHTS." Luckily, the part guy knew what I was talking about and even asked if it was an export model, I guess they're not the same either. So I got the right part and it works great, at least 30 PSI idling warm and at least 60 @ 2000 rpm. The temperature sender, nobody had so I am going to order it online. You just unplug and unscrew the sending units. The pressure sender is above the oil filter and the temperature sender on these models is behind and right of the valve cover on the 4.0, unless its at the thermostat housing. Normally, the sensor by the thermostat talks only to the computer. The temp sender is needs a 1/2" or 13mm deep socket. The oil pressure sending unit appears to need a 1 1/16" or 28mm socket. An adjustable crescent or box end wrench could be used if you're careful. Clean the hole in the oil filter housing, where the sensor mounts. I used a toothpick, solvent and cloth on the treads. There was sludge in there. Don't apply greases, plumbers tape or anything that
breaks the electrical ground between the sending unit and engine block. Apparently, a little copper RTV is ok.
Final considerations:
For a cheap and easy modification, the upgraded full instrument cluster is a huge improvement. The tachometer allows much more precise shifting of my (manual) transmission, but could benefit automatics as well. I do not worry about overheating or low oil pressure, as the gauges should indicate a problem before it becomes serious and allow me to take action before the engine is damaged. Furthermore, the font face on the new cluster is MUCH more asthetically pleasing, I don't know why, it just is. And, I was sick of staring at the huge gas gauge, watching my money burn away.
I did have a problem with the new oil pressure sender. It has a plastic housing which also holds electrical connector socket. Inside the unit, there is a prong that connects the eletrical component to the socket. The plastic housing locks onto the sending unit body with plastic tabs. But, the outer housing had slipped about 1mm, breaking the connection. You couldn't tell by looking at it. Eventually, I noticed the problem, pushed the plastic back on and used adhesive.
It was also a good idea to grease the steering wheel tilt mechanism while the steering column cover was off.
Tools:
#2 Phillips screwdrivers, a long one and a really short one.
#1 and #0 Phillips screwdriver
Torx driver - t15 or t20, I don't remember
Wrench to remove battery cables
7mm box end wrench or small socket
Socket or wrench for the oil sending unit
Deep 13mm or 1/2" socket
Cloth rag, for cleaning.
Keywords: gauge, gauges, idiot light, swap, instrument panel, cluster, tachometer, speedometer, how to
If anyone likes this write-up, feel free to post it to a website, don't hesitate to edit it or point out things I missed if you want to. Pics will follow.
Last edited:
