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spent 20 minutes redoing every hand motion I made, couldn't figure out if I had them correct vertically, said F it, it's a D35 anyway and slapped them back on.
I do have a torque wrench.
Lubricated with loctite? And some axle grease on everything?
paint pen will not make a decent mark.
I use a punch and put dots on them. I tried the paint pen once. It didn't go well. The metal is so saturated with oil it just wipes off when you touch it.[/QUOTE said:
Good thought... i am not sure if there is thrust washers with the detroit ez locker. But i dont think the spartan locker needs the thrust washers. Correct me if am wrong.
You are right. I just reread the D35 manual from Spartan and it specifically says to remove the thrust washers. It does not say to reinstall them. Sorry I posted wrong earlier. That could have been a big mistake. The thrust washers stay out for the Spartan.
Make sure you inspect the carrier thoroughly. Lunchbox lockers tend to crack the carrier in a D30 around the openings. I had one split the carrier in two.
You are right. I just reread the D35 manual from Spartan and it specifically says to remove the thrust washers. It does not say to reinstall them. Sorry I posted wrong earlier. That could have been a big mistake. The thrust washers stay out for the Spartan.
Make sure you inspect the carrier thoroughly. Lunchbox lockers tend to crack the carrier in a D30 around the openings. I had one split the carrier in two.
If you need the installation manual, I have the pdf version of it and can email it to you. I also found the videos from Randy's ring and pinion super helpful too.
If you need the installation manual, I have the pdf version of it and can email it to you. I also found the videos from Randy's ring and pinion super helpful too.
Got the diff cover off ( no metal pieces :yelclap, hubs and shafts out. First thing Saturday morning time for the axle carrier to get the new locker. All looks good so far. Going to clean up and paint a few parts before everything goes back together. Will let you know how the locker goes. Lates
I can't get the carrier out :dunno:. I tried using a prybar but it wont budge. I'm I going to need a case spreader? It seemed to work with a prybar for everyone else...
It will come out, put a wrench on one of the carrier bolts and rotate the carrier down untill the wrench stops agaist the diff, Then use a pry bar between the yoke or if you got big enough channel locks and turn the yoke, The carrier will push right out.
It's a good sign that its still has good preload, I have had them fall right out before.
It will come out, put a wrench on one of the carrier bolts and rotate the carrier down untill the wrench stops agaist the diff, Then use a pry bar between the yoke or if you got big enough channel locks and turn the yoke, The carrier will push right out.
It's a good sign that its still has good preload, I have had them fall right out before.
So i got the new Spartan locker installed and the axle is all put back together. Everything worked out great, thanks for everyone's input. Just need to take the Jeep out for a text run.
Do i need to wear in the locker like new gears or is it safe to take right out to the trails?
DO NOT USE ANY SIDE THRUST WASHERS WITH THE SPARTAN! THE AUSSIE AND LOCK-RITE DO USE THEM, BUT THE SPARTAN DOES NOT.
The spartan will come with a new cross shaft and roll pin, use them both in your stock carrier.
If you you have 4.11 ratio gears as stated in the sig, you will HAVE TO remove the ring gear from the carrier to get the shaft past teh ring gear. You will not be able to grind enough to make it clear. IF you had maybe a 3.07 you might or poss a 3.55 but a 4.11 will not even be close.
USE RED LOCKTITE (strongest you can find) when reinstalling the ring gear bolts in to the ring gear, and make sure carrier caps go back on the exact way they come off and your good to go.
DO NOT USE ANY SIDE THRUST WASHERS WITH THE SPARTAN! THE AUSSIE AND LOCK-RITE DO USE THEM, BUT THE SPARTAN DOES NOT.
The spartan will come with a new cross shaft and roll pin, use them both in your stock carrier.
If you you have 4.11 ratio gears as stated in the sig, you will HAVE TO remove the ring gear from the carrier to get the shaft past teh ring gear. You will not be able to grind enough to make it clear. IF you had maybe a 3.07 you might or poss a 3.55 but a 4.11 will not even be close.
USE RED LOCKTITE (strongest you can find) when reinstalling the ring gear bolts in to the ring gear, and make sure carrier caps go back on the exact way they come off and your good to go.
Hey Robert. Thanks for that.
I did exactly that. Did not use the thrust washer and used the supplied cross shaft and roll pin. I took out the carrier and removed the ring gear. Marked the caps and ring gear and everything went back the way i took it off.
I am glad i went with the red loctite... 271 i believe. I didn't use a lot but enough to fill 4-5 threads. The normal amount i use.
Just an FYI for some of you in this thread worried about mixing the caps up: Dana/Spicer diffs are marked at assembly (by the assembler) with a lettered punch in the caps and housing, in a specific orientation...a sideways "T" right next to a sideways "T" for example.