Improve your shackle angle

it doesnt really give you a full inch of lift, more like 1/2-3/4'' at most. is having the rear up by that much more really a big deal?


Not at all... I was under the impression that it was an inch MINIMUM.

For me, since my shackle angles are already ok, I figured I would gain the full amount of lift they will give.

If my shackles were verticle now, I would gain less because setting the shackles back 45 degrees will offset some of the gain by lowering the mount.

Not sure if that makes sense... it makes sense in my head... :D
 
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You are right there but i was referring to Ocean_jet cuz he said he had a good shackle angle and wanted to try the brackets. If he keeps the same shackle angle, he'll net about 1.5".

That's what I was thinking.

For me, I don't mind cutting the brackets (or moving them all the way forward if that is possible)... to me I think that would be worth it to not get another 1.5". I want to keep my center of gravity as low as possible.


Another option would be to cut the back of the stock shackle boxes for clearance and keep the shackles I have... but I keep seeing images of folded tacos when I think of doing that.
 
That's what I was thinking.

For me, I don't mind cutting the brackets (or moving them all the way forward if that is possible)... to me I think that would be worth it to not get another 1.5". I want to keep my center of gravity as low as possible.


Another option would be to cut the back of the stock shackle boxes for clearance and keep the shackles I have... but I keep seeing images of folded tacos when I think of doing that.

It's not possible to move the brackets all the way forward because there are two slots in the middle that the two bolts go in and it allows some forward and backwards adjustment but not fully forward. You COULD drill it to make it go all the way forward if you feel like messing with them. If you got no plans to ever modify the shackle angle again then cut em where it hits.
 
In my limited experience, if you're flexing your shackle out to the point where it hits the bracket, you're experiencing awesome axle wrap and you're flattening your springs out.

I would move it back a hole (or flip the channel around, that moves the holes around as well) and see how it works.

Once you shove the leaf spring up and the shackle goes horizontal enough to hit the bracket, you're destroying the spring.
 
In my limited experience, if you're flexing your shackle out to the point where it hits the bracket, you're experiencing awesome axle wrap and you're flattening your springs out.

I would move it back a hole (or flip the channel around, that moves the holes around as well) and see how it works.

Once you shove the leaf spring up and the shackle goes horizontal enough to hit the bracket, you're destroying the spring.

My RC 4" springs have a deep arch to them. When the shackle was hitting the bracket during uptravel, the springs were still arched pretty good. It's just that the stock shackle has very little range of motion due to it's short and chubby design. I wanted the 45 degree angle but it just didn't work so I'm now running 75 or so degrees just to give me some more range of travel until I get longer shackles.

The springs I have are like full size truck springs, or at least they feel like it. I removed the overload on the RC spring just to soften em up some cuz they were dumptruck stiff. Even without the overload they stay arched and a bit stiff. If i ever do manage to destroy or damage these springs, GREAT, cuz i'll have an excuse to go back to old man emu springs or build a bastard pack to my specs.
 
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It's not possible to move the brackets all the way forward because there are two slots in the middle that the two bolts go in and it allows some forward and backwards adjustment but not fully forward. You COULD drill it to make it go all the way forward if you feel like messing with them. If you got no plans to ever modify the shackle angle again then cut em where it hits.





Thanks for the input. I think I will try them with the shackles I have now, and if it's too much lift, I will figure something out.

Looks like I am not at 45 degrees yet, so I could stand to move the top mount point forward a bit, so maybe I'll get less lift... I think I need to do something... I have less than 1/4 inch of movement in the shackle until it hits...

Jeep037.jpg


Jeep039.jpg
 
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What would happen if you removed the bottom spring from the pak in order to help compensate for the increased lift of the new mounts? This would net 1/4 from removal of the spring plus anything that the spring was doing to help increase lift.

I actually want to go lower than what I am currently at and need to adjust my shackle angle. So any lift is a moving in the wrong direction for me.

Or is this a bad idea?
 
That's what I did. I removed the bottom (overload) spring from my pack and lost about an inch. It's not really wise to run without the overload though. The center of the packs need the support of that spring during uptravel and when loaded down.
 
The other issue you (can) run in to when removing leaves is spring wrap. You don't want the axle to twist the springs under torque, say, 4Lo & using throttle.
I think XJRanger removed leaves to compensate for his shackle relocation & then had to build a traction bar, IIRC
Myself... no direct experience, would probably try it without messing around with the spring pack first. If you don't like it, you can always lose a leaf later on.
 
What should be the width of the new bracket that houses the shackle? The one I got is maybe 1/32" short of 2.75" and I had a heck of a time getting the shackle in because the metal eye pin inside the shackle bushing seems longer. Maybe i had it at an angle but I shaved some off to make it fit better.
I'll measure when I get home to do the other side but I would appreciate a dimension.
 
I ordered mine about 18 months ago for my 92. Waiting for the 35's upgrade to install them. Finally got around to it (finally collected all the parts, with the wife's permission!). The installation was easy. Hardest part was getting the bumper off which is stock and well mangled. Spending some time getting the old shackle box flat was the most important part to getting it all to line up on my rig.

I will need to pull it off, dress down the metal, paint, reinstall with the skids and hitch (this will be the real test of alignment) and weld it all up. I think I will add a crush tube inside the shackle box so I dont bend in the frame rail where the nut it.

Gained about 1" from the new box and about 1/2" from new shackles. Shackle is now about 30 degrees when it was vertical before. Ride is much improved.

Well worth it.

John
 
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