- Location
- 29°58'28.9"N 99°15'15.5"W
My JL keeps throwing that same code, sometimes it has a low end knock. I am just going to go until something falls off of it.
Go 'till she blows...
Go 'till she blows...
Thats how I felt coming home from Northern MN. Figured 9.5hrs at 70mph, let just see how far it gets. Multiple stops on the side of the road to clear engine codesMy JL keeps throwing that same code, sometimes it has a low end knock. I am just going to go until something falls off of it.
Go 'till she blows...
Let me know when you are back and we'll do itI hear adding extra cylinders fixes those issues......
John that bumper looks pretty good! Hows the winter wheeling up by you?
I was just up there for a few days after Fabtech then off to LA, now sitting in SD airport.Let me know when you are back and we'll do it
Lar drove it from Boise to SLC last year at 75+ and it didn't let loose. I would assume that would have been the time, since it would have probably been the most inconvenient. We are wheeling it in Big Bend NP next month, it will have another chance...Thats how I felt coming home from Northern MN. Figured 9.5hrs at 70mph, let just see how far it gets. Multiple stops on the side of the road to clear engine codes![]()
Also known as the ball sack of the US.then off to LA
What is the build date,some of the early 13's had head issues like the 12's.So let me recap the whole picture since I got the Jeep and maybe someone has an idea for me to try before we start dealing with new motor plans
2013 Jeep Wrangler 4DR Sport
Picked it up about 1.5yr ago with 187K miles and has had a ticking (from right side I think) since I brought it home.
Early on I was getting CEL and pulling code P0344. Seem to only happen if I was using cruise control or going above 80mph. Each time it would light up I would lose acceleration power and cruise control. So I went down the rabbit hole of replacing both Cam sensors. When that didnt fix it I replaced all wheel speed sensors. Found one of the connectors to be broken, didn't fixthat but did replace the sensors. Every now and then that code comes up and I wiggle that connector around to resolve.
Some time over the summer the lower radiator hose sprung a pin hole leak while out over-landing. Had to road side fix that with electrical tape and hopes. Replaced with new when I got home.
Next was to address the oil leak. Confirmed that it was the cooler. Replaced that with the Dorman and OEM seals. Have followed up and inspected so far no oil in the valley. However there is still oil in the drive and none near the top end of the motor. Leaking low I am assuming rear main at this point.
Ran great all summer long. Took it on overland style trips. Did a couple weekend wheeling trips. Then on a 10hr trip home from MN, threw CEL again. This time was a new code. P0303. Since I was 4hours into the trip, I just cleared and kept going. I noticed a trend symptom. After clearing the code, would run without a code but you could tell something was off. Could run like that for hours but when you stop the engine and start backup (for example stopping for gas) the CEL would come back on and there would be a clear misfire.
So I continue with my travels because its still moving and im not towing 5hrs home. Once home I give it a break for a couple weeks
I then try to figure out what's going on. I start by clearing everything yet again and taking for a ride. Problem immediately came back with "the run / then off /then run" sequence. So my 1st objective was to swap plugs 3 and 1 to see if the code changes. Both plugs looked good. Code came back and was the same P0303. Next objective was full replacement of plugs and coils. During that job, just happened to notice every single valve cover bolt was completely loose. Tightened them all down and finish the job. Code came back.
last nights attempt at P0303 was fuel injectors. all 6 six disgusting and covered in muck and mud. Was for sure I found my culprit.
Also have been getting a collapsing upper rad hose since the lower fail a few months ago, so with the intake out of the way, swapped thermostat, hose, and rad cap.
Put it all back together and let it run while bleeding out the air in the cooling system. Once ready, shut it off and back on.....code came back.
The things runs, drives, and honestly sounds decent sitting in the garage. Take it on the street you can tell there is a misfire but its not like its dieing on the road....
Whats next?