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Re: Re: Important
That's the longest short story ever.
Well. Long story short.
That's the longest short story ever.
Well. Long story short.
Where do you get full circle clips for 760 joints?
Well. Long story short
you have two options:
1. bash it flat and reuse. Try to not use the hammer anywhere near where the bearing seats, or use a deadblow on a flat metal plate so you only straighten the metal instead of spreading it.
2. use new slinger, install .035 of additional pinion depth shims. Pinion depth shims go under the inner pinion bearing race not under the cone with the slinger, which brings us to... you are going to need to punch that race out of the housing. When you do, you'll probably screw up the pinion oil baffle. It's a cheap part, but you probably forgot to order one. Oh, and the new oil baffle may be a different thickness than the old one too, so you need to measure those as well and compensate for that as well. I forget if any of this will affect your pinion bearing preload shim stack as well, but pinion preload should be ~20-40 inch pounds with new pinion bearings (and the carrier not present) when the pinion nut is torqued to 200 foot pounds. Remember to order yourself a second brand new pinion nut so you can use a new nut each time, I've seen people booger up the threads on the pinion trying to reuse an old nut for setup purposes and you NEED to use a new one when you do the final install. The pinion nut is a large SAE size (I want to say 3/4 or 7/8 fine thread, but not sure) so if you have access to an assortment of such hardware, a grade 8 UNF nut for the right size will work fine for setup purposes, or if you have access to a tap set that large, you can just run the appropriately sized tap through the old nut to clean up the threads and use it as a setup nut.
Other things that will help out if you go this route: cut the axle tube off an old 8.25 axle housing and use it as a pinion seal driver for d30s, it works great, perfect size (if you cut it off where it's larger, not where it's necked down to go to the bearing and brake flange.) You don't need to fully torque the pinion nut to check your patterns and backlash, just torque it to the point that everything's seated. Don't forget to put one hand inside the diff to hold the pinion while using a deadblow to force the pinion back out of the outer pinion bearing cone while doing the setup, dropping the damn thing into the drain pan is almost as annoying as dropping it on the floor.
But really I'd just bash it flat with a deadblow and reuse it.
Where do you get full circle clips for 760 joints?
it's a damn sight shorter than the 8 hours I spent in the shop doing my first gear install and learning those gotchas by sad, sad experience :gee:That's the longest short story ever.
You're correct about where the baffle goes. Make sure you get it facing the right way, one way it will clear the inner pinion bearing cone/cage the other way it won't.Oh you should know better than that by now!
Races are out already, and I bought the whole shebang with the baffle (which is good since I destroyed it). I didn't consider the baffle being a different thickness though, I will measure both. I will have to double check the diagram but I believe the baffle goes between between the race of the inner bearing and the housing, so that would be factored into the depth shims.
Thank you for the advice, as always. Despite all the frustration I am enjoying learning something new and maybe getting the confidence to actually set up gears some day!
Went to the local Jeep junkyard today to try and find a front driveshaft, found this gem out in the yard; anyone recognize it? I don't remember whose it was. Renix era, red with black stripe on the hood.
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$30/year for membership is so cheap for having access to this much knowledge.