BRIANHO13
<- Yum Chocolate
- Location
- Spring, TX
This is your brain when you don't buy Warn...
At least they went b4 your shafts, I always had the shafts go first with my 44......why I went to a 60.
Important
- Thread starter bshaw
- Start date
At least they went b4 your shafts, I always had the shafts go first with my 44......why I went to a 60.
a lot of times this depends on who's doing the work.In grounding those outlets, wouldn't that fall under the "replacing all existing wiring" regulation once you get in there? I know some places are like that...something about replacing ALL old if any?
Word. Or blue.
Contractor, yes, the whole thing has to be brought up to code.
Homeowner, meh, kind of a gray area, but usually don't require permits and code and inspections if you're just "remodeling" a room....
why you break it?
XJosh95
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Green Bay, WI
I didn't break the hub. I was testing its durability and I placed it in the box because that's where it came from and I figured it wanted to go home.
- Location
- Michigan
At least they went b4 your shafts, I always had the shafts go first with my 44......why I went to a 60.
First real obstacle at wf was the first hub.
First real obstacle at R&V was the second.
I have not wheeled between the two.
Mile Marker=suck.
- Location
- Michigan
XJosh95
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Green Bay, WI
It works best in first person...
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
You should really talk to woody, I told him some things about this exact swap that might help, or maybe I just confused him. I'm not sure but hopefully he can actually speak from experience instead of theoretical engineer "this should work but I haven't tried it" ideas :yap:
From what you are saying, you have exactly the setup he did, except he had an exhaust system he wanted to connect back up. So you have it even easier, you can just put a 99 down style exhaust on it easy enough instead of getting adapters and welding up a custom downpipe.
You are an electrician right? You probably know this better than I do, if you are you definitely do. Dumb question, don't you need special GFCIs for non grounded circuits? I've been told you do but haven't looked into it at all because I'm redoing everything and therefore have good grounds to work with.
altrocker1
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Iowa
sorry for another stupid tech question...my fuel pressure tests fine on prime and idle, but the symptoms i'm having point to fuel pump. loss of power while accelerating, engine trying to die occasionally like its running out of gas. only happens when im driving it, not when its sitting. pressure is 40 on prime, 47 while engine is running. i dont have a way to get the pressure gauge close enough to the cab to see while driving. i don't want to spend the money on a fuel pump unless i have to.
XJosh95
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Green Bay, WI
How much does a regulator cost? Cheap to try, I'd imagine.
And don't forget all your vacuum lines.
And don't forget all your vacuum lines.
altrocker1
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Iowa
lol...its a 98. pump unit is stock with 260k on it
altrocker1
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Iowa
also wouldn't vacuum issues cause a high idle? or would there be silly issues while the vacuum system is charging on start up? all the issues i have are gone within 5 minutes of startup when running down the road
- Location
- NE Indiana
This is your brain when you don't buy Warn...
Not sure that its because they weren't warn...
I think its because they were D44 hubs in general...
I think a D30 with unit bearings would've held up better...
mac 'go 60 or go home' gyvr
- Location
- Southern Indiana
Toss some drive slugs in there!
XJ&CHZ4ME
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Unionville, MO
Craig, it sounds like a fuel pump. I just replaced one on the Black 98 XJ I sold to a local kid..270K on stock one, random power loss, bad sputtering idle. All good now. The pressure regulator is part of the pump assembly on that rig, it is best to just get teh whole new drop in unit ann d filters/socks and be done with it. @ $160 at Oreilly unless you know a guy named Collin....
- Location
- Michigan
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
I have a 60 sitting in my yard as well... I may be bringing it for WF 13 if I have money to show up!
- Ken 'it'll be under a jeep though I hope' Stein
- Ken 'it'll be under a jeep though I hope' Stein
no "charging" of tha vacuum system. THe volume is so small compared to what a 4.0 ingests that you should have proper vacum nearly instantly.
Since you say it goes away after 5 minutes of driving, checked the O2 sensor heating circuit?
Have you put a vacuum pump on the manifold and drawn it down to see if it holds vacuum?
I don't know to much about the late model fuel regulator, is is computer controlled fuel pressure or still vacuum? If vacuum, pull the line off and check the pressure, it should rise. If it doesn't, or there's fuel in the vacuum port, it's done.
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
I'm not sure how it works, but basically fuel gets fed in by the pump and goes right to the engine. There's no vacuum lines or wires or anything to it.
I'd like to propose that any bean counter that suggests outsourcing is a good thing should be forced to work with accountants who view American English as a 3rd language, not first, and have majored in underwater basketweaving. This should be required before any other outsourcing takes place.
