Important

terrehautian said:
Yes, I could just get the adapters to make it not use the third one, but for how much the adapters cost, I can just get a new outlet.
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Even with the 2-3 wire adapters, that little green loop is supposed to attached to the faceplate screw and grounded. Which, in my book, really doesn't make them all that useful.

My house does seem to be wired up fairly well as far as breakers & layout go. Some of the routing of the in-wall wiring is entertaining to say the least. I'm thinking about adding a whole-house surge suppressor to the breaker panel.
 
My second floor wiring is perfect. AFCIs for everything they're required for, full grounding, dual 20 amp circuits to one bedroom w/ outlets every 3 feet along 2 walls and every 6 feet along the others (one 20 amp circuit w/ outlets every 6 feet in the other rooms), lighting on a separate circuit, all metal electrical boxes, lighted switches by the door, commercial/industrial grade outlets. I decided if I was going to do it once I was going to do it right and never have to mess with it again.

First floor... wiring? what wiring? Haven't gotten that far. :laugh2:
 
kastein said:
... you need to actually ground those outlets AND those adaptors when you use them, you know that, right?

Not doing so is a great way to get your insurance company to laugh in your face when you get electrocuted or the place burns down.
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In grounding those outlets, wouldn't that fall under the "replacing all existing wiring" regulation once you get in there? I know some places are like that...something about replacing ALL old if any?
REWSTER said:
green is a good color, possibly the best jeep color. lol
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Word. Or blue. ;)
 
XJosh95 said:
In grounding those outlets, wouldn't that fall under the "replacing all existing wiring" regulation once you get in there? I know some places are like that...something about replacing ALL old if any?
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I'm honestly not sure. I bought my place fully intending to gut it to the bare studs and redo everything so I never considered what I would be required to replace.
 
kastein said:
Basically it cracks around the bolt ring that holds it to the crankshaft flange.

There are a few reasons - excessive drivetrain vibration could cause it I guess, but probably not. If someone did a poorly done trans replacement or engine replacement and didn't properly torque the fasteners, or forgot to put in the inspection cover / aluminum dust shield on the front of the bellhousing, that can definitely cause it as the trans and engine will "squirm" against each other, and any departure from perfect collinearity between the crankshaft centerline and transmission geartrain centerline will result in the flexplate acting like more of a U-joint than a flexplate, which will very very quickly fatigue crack it. A bent torque converter can cause it, but you'd probably notice that in other ways first. Another common cause is a failure to properly clean/de-rust the machined surface of the block where the aluminum plate and bellhousing go onto it, or a failure to properly clean the aluminum plate or the machined surface of the bellhousing where it mates to the other parts. All that has to be pretty clean, the engine to bellhousing alignment dowels on the two "wings" of the block need to be in good shape, and the bolts need to be tightened to spec - any of those can throw things off.

Are you hearing the sound from somewhere within the motor or more toward the back? How's the oil pressure?

What I would do, from most to least expensive, assuming cali emissions -
* pick up a new motor (00-01) in good shape, put a new TUPY 0331 head on it, drop it in. Buy a flexplate as well just in case. If you pull the motor and it's the flexplate, stuff the flexplate in and put your motor back, then put the motor you bought to the side as a spare.
* pick up a new motor (00-01) in good shape, drop it in. Same flexplate/spare idea as before.

Assuming you feel like fabricating things or have federal emissions / no pre-cats: * pick up a new motor (preferably 96-99 or so with the NVH mark cast on the driver front side of the block but anything from about a 91 up will fit)
* use the 91-99 regular style manifold and manifold gasket, use your intake manifold and all sensors
* use a Viper coil pack, Talyn wrote a thread on how to do it. Mount it to the inner fender and extend the primary cable to reach it and use longer secondary/spark plug wires.
* you will need a custom downpipe to connect your 00/01 style exhaust system to the 91-99 manifold, but that's about the only custom stuff you'll need. You should be able to build one by cutting the downstream flange off your 00/01 downpipe at the 3 bolt flange that connects to the cat, then get an exhaust adapter tube that will adapt it to be the size of a 91-99 downpipe (there are a few variations, I'd suggest a 95/96 as they are supposedly larger diameter) and weld it all together.
* again, if you pull the motor and find a cracked flexplate, just put a new flexplate in and FIRI.

This will only work if you have the federal emissions setup with no precats and the usual 2 o2 sensors, otherwise you'll run into issues.

If the bolts are loose, it'll sound about like that but less regular, and if you goose the throttle it'll sound horrible. It should sound fairly normal while driving under power though.
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Back to this. It is the one with out the precats. Exhuast is no big deal because it currently doesnt have one anyway. I tried holding a screwdriver to my ear and then the oil pan and trans but the difference was very minimal.

Going to drop the oil pan tonight and see what i can see. May just start pulling the motor and go buy that 96 after my wedding.
 
If your electrical was preexisting when you bought it and it passed the inspection for the mortgage then you do not have to change it by law. In all honesty though just for safety's sake I would.
Problem is it is probably the cloth wrapped wiring in the walls. Which means there was no ground, only a hot and neutral. So even changing the outlet to a newer style is not going to help other than not needing the outlet adapter. It still will not be grounded unless they used shielded cable from the breaker box all the way out to the outlet. (BX) In 1940's they were not quite making the transition to that yet.
So replacing the outlets to the newer style would require replacing the existing wiring to 12-2 to the outlets and 14-2 to the lighting.
 
Well, turn for the worst. lost all vision of left eye. They put me on steroids. makes driving a bit hairy, don't think Ill be test driving customers cars for while.
 
Just find the first outlet in the series on every receptacle circuit and replace it with a GFCI. them piggy back the rest of them off of that receptacle. If done properly all of the outlets will be protected by GFCI, which is better than just a plain old grounded outlet.
Just do not put them in line with a freezer, an iron lung, an oxygen tent, or other important equipment, they like to false trip a lot.
 
seanR said:
Just find the first outlet in the series on every receptacle circuit and replace it with a GFCI. them piggy back the rest of them off of that receptacle. If done properly all of the outlets will be protected by GFCI, which is better than just a plain old grounded outlet.
Just do not put them in line with a freezer, an iron lung, an oxygen tent, or other important equipment, they like to false trip a lot.
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They did this in the house I am in now, the gfci is in the bathroom and the bedroom next to it has the entire room running through that receptical, while everything else in that bathroom is run through another gfci. It was a real b*****h to figure out why the room went dark once.
 
nick86 said:
Well, turn for the worst. lost all vision of left eye. They put me on steroids. makes driving a bit hairy, don't think Ill be test driving customers cars for while.
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that sucks, but dont you remember your parents telling you that if you did not stop "that" then you may go blind.....;)

Cheese "one eyed smiley" Man
 
nick86 said:
Well, turn for the worst. lost all vision of left eye. They put me on steroids. makes driving a bit hairy, don't think Ill be test driving customers cars for while.
Click to expand...
Well, crap. Hope this is temporary.
 
This is your brain when you don't buy Warn...

picture.php
 
nick86 said:
Well, turn for the worst. lost all vision of left eye. They put me on steroids. makes driving a bit hairy, don't think Ill be test driving customers cars for while.
Click to expand...
So, you're moving to California and filling a prescription?
 
I know a guy with a set of full widths sitting on a pallet in the shed...just saying (did I mention this before?)
 
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