VAhasnoWAVES
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Lake City, Mi
thats the beauty of a wave... water doesnt hurt.I've never surged but would love to try, yeah.I'm not from the flip trick gen, lien to tail Ds and bs no prob, Ds/ bs smiths are a blast Fav trick lately is fs 50/50 to tailslide, or Ollie nose slide reverts, I have a huge bag of tricks, seems I forget some then see someone do it and go oh yeah lol I grew up in the country so the roads sucked I lived on my two minis with a hip. Good times, stopped riding very in 01 cause of a bad fall that broke my elbow, but ill stay oninis till I can't walk lol
though i have pearled and skipped across the water plenty. and ragdolled in heavy sessions. then there is the occasional getting slammed on the bar or getting worked on the inside shore break. but east coast is all sandy bottom, no where near as gnarley as reef. but ive been out in some of the heaviest conditions the east coast as scene. check that one off of the bucket list.
when i graduate school i WILL go to tavarua, and i WILL surf cloud break. probably one of the fastest lefts in the world. can get almost as heavy as teahupoo.
http://www.malolosurf.com/surf/big/cloudbreak.jpg
surfing, i always found FS more comfortable, but skating i seem to be able to stay higher on the wall backside, i dont get it. but im hoping that will all the flow ive been aquiring over the last 2 years, ill step on a board like i was never gone. reading the water is realistically the hardest part. the rest is natural athleticism. last time i went home, i spent a week camping in frisco and watched as it was blown out the entire week. on the drive home, i decided to stop randomly and walk over the dunes to check the water (knowing the winds were right) and scored super glassy waist high rights.
ever seen the really shitty movie "nights in rodanthe" or "rodanthe nights"? i forget exactly what its called... but thats right out front of Sturns, another great spot. been there many times.