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A kid today in the school newspaper was quoted saying he'd love to test drive a 1967 chevy cobra if he could test drive any car in the world...some kids should just stick to writing their very left wing opinioned articles (which I am almost convinced evey college student is an extreme left winger) and stop trying to "sound cool"
 
For aftermarket inertial controllers, I'd go with a Tekonsha P3 (used to be Prodigy.) Nothing else. You could try a BrakeSmart (taps into the hydraulics,) or a Jordan (cable activated off the brake pedal.)
 
I have had a plethora of brake controllers over the years and the Tekonsha is by far the best I have ran....but a close second would be the cheap unit I bought that was a Draw Tite...never had a problem and very sensitive and user friendly.
 
With the right pigtail, so does a P3/Prodigy. I loaned my Prodigy to a coworker. He picked up the right pigtail at the local R/V shop, it plugged right in, no muss, no fuss. It took longer to attach the bracket than it did to wire up.

If you like it, so be it. I won't tow with anything else right now, and I've used it from a 1 ton pop-up to a 30k lbs. gooseneck.
 
A kid today in the school newspaper was quoted saying he'd love to test drive a 1967 chevy cobra if he could test drive any car in the world...some kids should just stick to writing their very left wing opinioned articles (which I am almost convinced evey college student is an extreme left winger) and stop trying to "sound cool"

can i be a no winged college student?
 
I inherited a dirt old tekonosha. Voyager maybe? It's nearly 20 years old and works well. It is wired straight into the facotry fuse block on my father in laws Chevy.

a side note, when wiring up a brake controller into the factory wiring, you have to connect the wire to the fuse block under the hood. it's a PITA to get at. Took me 30 minutes to figure out why it didn't get power, that step was conveniently omitted from the wiring harness instructions.
 
For $96 this should be good, eh?

U guys are making me nervous.

as long as it's inertial it will be fine.

you don't actually think Pilot makes it do you? The circuit board probably came off the same chinese production line that makes name brand ones.

it's the timer ones that suck donkey ballz.
 
rew and I

IMAG0076.jpg
 
I used to run a Curt brake controller in my Dodge but it quit working on me. I went to a local trailer shop and they installed a DrawTite Activator II. It was $45 installed I believe, its super simple and works well so far. The trailer shop said it is the only controller that they carry and have yet to have one fail.

activator2.jpg
 
I used to run a Curt brake controller in my Dodge but it quit working on me. I went to a local trailer shop and they installed a DrawTite Activator II. It was $45 installed I believe, its super simple and works well so far. The trailer shop said it is the only controller that they carry and have yet to have one fail.

activator2.jpg

I have the same one waiting to be installed in the Waggy. Got it out of the JY.. for free. Found the wiring and testing info on E-trailer.com.
 
I used to run a Curt brake controller in my Dodge but it quit working on me. I went to a local trailer shop and they installed a DrawTite Activator II. It was $45 installed I believe, its super simple and works well so far. The trailer shop said it is the only controller that they carry and have yet to have one fail.

They are time-delay. I had one in my Tahoe and I was always fiddling with it or annoyed at how much braking power/delay it was giving me. Finally I said screw it and bought a Prodigy P3 and it's night and day difference. I don't even notice that I have a brake controller anymore, it matches the truck brakes that well. For what it's worth I've still got the Activator II around my garage in case anyone wants one.

Rev, I know the Ford integrated one is made by Tekonsha and is an inertial controller, which probably explains why people like it so much. Honestly I'm not sure why they didn't start integrating them a long time ago...
 
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