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Important

Honestly thgouh, my CPS has been connected to the harness with two wire nuts for like 3 years.:laugh:
:roflmao:

That's awesome, probably more reliable than the factory setup.

A friend of mine DDs a 90 with the CPS cable held away from the exhaust manifold by a shoestring tied around the cable and threaded carefully through a few vacuum harnesses, brake tubes, and wiring looms. We gotta fix that sometime... I just know it's gonna come undone and drop the cable back on the manifold when he's on his way to work or something.
 
So just replaced the starter and battery cables on my truck a few weeks ago. Left work today to get lunch, started fine. Got my food, no start. Clicked once and nothing. Tried it 10 times or so, one click each time. After sitting there and thinking about what to do for a while, I ended up putting it in neutral and back into park, and then it started right up.

WTF? First thought was neutral safety switch, but when the NSS thinks it's in gear, it won't even make the starter click...
 
So just replaced the starter and battery cables on my truck a few weeks ago. Left work today to get lunch, started fine. Got my food, no start. Clicked once and nothing. Tried it 10 times or so, one click each time. After sitting there and thinking about what to do for a while, I ended up putting it in neutral and back into park, and then it started right up.

WTF? First thought was neutral safety switch, but when the NSS thinks it's in gear, it won't even make the starter click...

perhaps it's not bad but dirty and not making a low enough resistance connection to completely engage the solenoid. Put a meter on it and see what the resistance is from the starters solenoid connection thru the NSS. I bet you'll find some high resistance, and the problem may vary with moisture in the air if it's corrosion.
 
Brad, our PSD at the farm is a 99 and it has had problems like that and it actually was in the column shifter. We had to pull up on the shifter and then it would "engage or connect" what it needed to and allow the starter to get power. We have since had that item replaced bc the shift lever broke once and we have even had linkage probs with it and had to climb under the truck to put it in gear...it is such a worn out POS.
 
Brad, our PSD at the farm is a 99 and it has had problems like that and it actually was in the column shifter. We had to pull up on the shifter and then it would "engage or connect" what it needed to and allow the starter to get power. We have since had that item replaced bc the shift lever broke once and we have even had linkage probs with it and had to climb under the truck to put it in gear...it is such a worn out POS.

this is a good thought, it might be that the linkage is not putting the NSS in the right spot for the arms on the wiper to hit the right contacts.
 
Brad, our PSD at the farm is a 99 and it has had problems like that and it actually was in the column shifter. We had to pull up on the shifter and then it would "engage or connect" what it needed to and allow the starter to get power. We have since had that item replaced bc the shift lever broke once and we have even had linkage probs with it and had to climb under the truck to put it in gear...it is such a worn out POS.

this is a good thought, it might be that the linkage is not putting the NSS in the right spot for the arms on the wiper to hit the right contacts.

Good ideas! My ZJ has this problem, I have to push forward on the shifter or put it in neutral to start it. That may have been what happened when I pulled it out of park and put it back in. Getting ready to leave work so I'll find out soon I guess.

I have to say my Ford has the clunkiest shifter I've ever seen. I have about an inch of play up and down regardless of what gear it's in. I think it's just their design, but maybe it is something wrong with just mine.
 
chances are it's a piece of rod stuck in a sliding slot whatchamacallit. No real way to make that feel not clunky, short of using a cable shifter, and I'm sure the beancounters nixed that.
 
Good ideas! My ZJ has this problem, I have to push forward on the shifter or put it in neutral to start it. That may have been what happened when I pulled it out of park and put it back in. Getting ready to leave work so I'll find out soon I guess.

I have to say my Ford has the clunkiest shifter I've ever seen. I have about an inch of play up and down regardless of what gear it's in. I think it's just their design, but maybe it is something wrong with just mine.

Check waaaay up under the dash up on the column. Fords have a problem with 2 shifter linkage bolts working themselves loose and causing problems like you're describing. I have fixed 2 Crown Vics and an Expedition this way. They're Torx; just look up in there with a good flashlight and I bet you will find 2 loose bolts working their way out.
 
Remote from St. Charles, IL...

Off to find a cigar shop, then to the Irish pub.
 
It's getting close! I have almost all the pieces I need, and everything's starting to come together very nicely.

100_1402.jpg
 
weld on brackets from summit, rotors from a later year CJ, calipers from a late '80s to mid '90s 4wd S-10, but any 5 1/2" GM metric caliper will work. You have to shave the flange down 1/4" all the way around, and then run a spacer around the wheel studs, I found an old bushing sleeve that was perfect and cut it up.
 
Just make sure when you go to weld them on make sure you have the correct side up. Got a replacement bracket on backorder for the other side.

SC 'It's a Low Pinion You Idiot' Rednek
 
Your bumper and radiator, too.

Just realized why that looks so odd - you're gonna have some fun shoehorning a 4.0 into that engine bay.
 
The 86/older chassis didn't have the space made in the firewall behind the engine block, and they hadn't widened out the radiator opening yet (which is what made me notice this on yours.) You'll have to modify the radiator opening and "massage" the firewall somewhat with a 2x4 and a bottle jack. Not the biggest deal, but something that is better to know before you start.
 
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