Important

GoSlowGetStuck said:
Been noticing oil in the driveway, underneath the F250. Looks like the whole front of the pan is covered in oil. Did some reading and I guess on the 7.3s, the oil pans like to rust away. They ought to cover these things in oil or something to keep them from rusting, heh.

Looks like the job is 11.5 hours of labor so I'm guessing they have to pull the motor to do it. I'm certainly not 100% sure the oil pan is the problem, but it sounds expensive to repair so that's probably it (preparing for the worst). Seems important enough to repair that I'll put the brakes, shocks, sway bar links and ball joints on the back burner and deal with this first.

Just the kind of thing I'm excited about getting fixed on a new-to-me vehicle.
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Bah, that sucks! But at least it leaked to let you know it had a problem.
 
just picked up a set of 36" TSL's for cheap. They are about 85% or better tread and the guy went to 33" AT's for street wear...so I sold my 35" M/T Claws for double what I paid for the TSL's too! Score for me!!
 
GoSlowGetStuck said:
Dealer repair looks to be $1800-2000. Where's my JB weld at...
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I did use JB weld on a 5.8 oil pan that was rusting and leaking. Seemed to work pretty well, but I sold the van a few months later so I don't know about long term durability.
 
I am going to JB weld the rockers in that YJ!! I will post up some current pics of it this week...nicely buffed out, I got some charcoal Ecco's mounted up w/ some used 31x10.50 BFG A/T's and some black diamond plate rocker guards/covers....she is a polished up turd if I ever saw one!! :D
 
discosteve said:
the jeep finally failed me last week. first time in 3yrs ive had to get dad to tow it home. cps decided to quit while cruisin down the hwy. it was the icing on the cake for an already crappy night (date stood me up) so now im rollin in the festiva. life is good (sarcasm) :banghead:
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embrace the beater.
I DD a ford aspire, it's got a mazda B motor and drivetrain in it.
It loves to rev.
I beat the piss out of it and get 35MPG.
now that it's got 4 working brakes it's even more fun.
 
Brad - It's the oil pan. They're known for that issue. Yes, they either have to pull the engine or drop the front axle a bunch to get the pan out.

May have fallen victim to the NV4500 5th gear nut problem. Further investigation to come.
 
GoSlowGetStuck said:
Been noticing oil in the driveway, underneath the F250. Looks like the whole front of the pan is covered in oil. Did some reading and I guess on the 7.3s, the oil pans like to rust away. They ought to cover these things in oil or something to keep them from rusting, heh.

Looks like the job is 11.5 hours of labor so I'm guessing they have to pull the motor to do it. I'm certainly not 100% sure the oil pan is the problem, but it sounds expensive to repair so that's probably it (preparing for the worst). Seems important enough to repair that I'll put the brakes, shocks, sway bar links and ball joints on the back burner and deal with this first.

Just the kind of thing I'm excited about getting fixed on a new-to-me vehicle.
Click to expand...

I bet its an o ring on one of the high pres lines out of the oil pump, $20 o-ring kit and about 4 hours worth of work and blood sacrifice will get you hooked up. Look ontop of the engine and if there is oil in the "valley" that would be your problem. Mine wa so bad it looked like the rear main was leaking.

GOOD LUCK
 
Man, I really hate to hear everyone having trouble with their oil burners.......


FYI: My gasser is till going strong! :D
 
seanR said:
Mine too, turned over 160,000 today
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61,000 today for me.





I'm sorry, but I got a pretty good chuckle out of the Ford oil pan rusting away tid-bit......that's kinda funny.
 
BRIANHO13 said:
I bet its an o ring on one of the high pres lines out of the oil pump, $20 o-ring kit and about 4 hours worth of work and blood sacrifice will get you hooked up. Look ontop of the engine and if there is oil in the "valley" that would be your problem. Mine wa so bad it looked like the rear main was leaking.

GOOD LUCK
Click to expand...

Thanks Brian, I will look at it more closely. I crawled under it today and noticed oil on the block *above* the oil pan so it may very well be coming from somewhere higher up. I did not see any rust on the pan and couldn't feel any roughness on it like it were rusting. I did notice what appeared to be RTV on the pan seal though, from what I read it should be a two-part epoxy that IH makes. So it might have been dealt with once before.

Hell, I may take it in just to have someone smarter than me tell me what's wrong.

HaleYes said:
I'm sorry, but I got a pretty good chuckle out of the Ford oil pan rusting away tid-bit......that's kinda funny.
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Yea yea... used to own only GMs and got made fun of for that, now I whore up Ford and I'm getting razzed for that. Hint: all vehicles are pieces of crap.

Gas is probably less expensive to own and maintain (though I think we hashed that out a few pages ago), but I'll stick with my oil burner (and oil leaker). :moon:
 
btw, if anyone is in the market for a pre-97 XJ, there is a dark green 4 door for sale on the corner of the bypass (45/46) and N. Walnut St in Bloomington, dealer wants 2900 for it. it looks very clean by what i could see today
 
IllianaXJ said:
Brad - It's the oil pan. They're known for that issue. Yes, they either have to pull the engine or drop the front axle a bunch to get the pan out.

May have fallen victim to the NV4500 5th gear nut problem. Further investigation to come.
Click to expand...

Big problem is not the axle but the huge crossmember they run right under the oil pan. I've read of thrifty places torching it out and welding it back in after the repair. Not for me. Again for the amount of money this could cost me I'll have to make sure I know what's really going on.

Edit: Whoops I should take a class on multi-quoting... not (intentionally) trying to be Aaron here and rack up my post count.
 
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